Ok so what are the current issues you’re concerned with? I tried reading back through the thread but I’m getting a bit lost because I thought we were looking at the AC power outlet, and now it sounds like that’s been resolved.

 

I'm trying to root out what's causing the power drain that lead to the 115v shorting out and multimedia module melting down in addition to an assortment of other electrical issues such as the battery draining fast while listening to the radio in ACC mode.

 

TIPM

Okay, given the seemingly intermittent and random nature of the issues you’re experiencing, I think it’s time to start over. I’m now inclined to think this is a battery related issue but I’m not convinced it’s not wiring either. Control modules can do some weird things when they start losing source voltage and your new AC issue adds to that list.

I understand that AAA tested the battery and it was good at the time, but if it was tested immediately after a jump start, there’s no way it was fully charged, and without it being fully charged, any test results are not accurate. Additionally, I’ve seen bad batteries test good despite the fact that you could smell the hydrogen gas being discharged because of a shorted cell.

1) Disconnect the battery completely (negative first). Inspect for corrosion on the terminals and the cable clamps and clean as needed. Make sure the clamps are providing a tight fit on the battery (you shouldn’t be able to move the clamp at all when connected to the post).

2) Charge the battery over night using a trickle charger (can be found at any parts or department store relatively cheap) Take the battery to be tested once fully charged.

3) While the battery is charging, remove the TIPM (procedure below) and inspect the connections on the back for looseness, corrosion and damage. The retaining levers and tabs should all be in a locked position. If nothing is suspect, reinstall the TIPM.

To remove the TIPM (Reference Horribly edited photo above)
1) Open the cover and unhook the battery cable from the TIPM. You can close the cover or remove it at this time.
2) There are 4 retaining tabs near the corners. Press them in while also lifting on the TIPM - I find pressing the 2 front or 2 rear tabs at the same time is the easiest, but you can also use a small screwdriver to depress them if you can’t get them by hand - just be careful not to break them.

 

Brought to an area automotive electrician who said he wouldn't be able to help because the cost for access to Dodge's system utilities for their newer vehicles is unreasonable. After mentioning to him that it was previously diagnosed as there being corrosion on multimedia module he said in most cases it is due to water.

Since the module is in the left rear interior quater panel I suspect at some time rain had entered through the rear quarter window and made it's way down into the module through the window shade opening.

Have made a new appointment with a more local Dodge for another diagnostic (since they told me they wouldn't do repairs based on another Dodge dealer's diagnostic).

Also found out that the wiring kit for the module has been discontinued. How could this be possible for a 2017 vehicle?

 

I didn’t find anything on service info about why the harness was discontinued. Possibly it’s because they’ve changed or updated the panels and the harness had to be changed as a result.

Check out picowiring.com - they have all types of terminals.

 

I've been reading your posts and I found it a bit confusing but let me get this straight you have electrical issues with you GC brought to the dealer for diagnostic which they found a few problems including the rear multimedia panel. I understand that they repaired or cleared everything except the multimedia panel in which they told you was cause by corrosion of the pcb board. Well I can attest to this by years of experience that corrosion is one of the worst cause of board failures knowing that it shorted out I'm 99.9% sure the board is toast. Since you'll need a new board Dodge don't make entertainment systems they sourced it out to a 3rd party manufacturer. Now if it was my van I'd take the rear multimedia panel out and bring it to a reputable electronic repair shop that specialize in repairing video and audio systems. They'll have the equipment and expertise to test the board to determine if it's salvageable or need replacing and probably cheaper too. Should you go that route ask for them to put a conformal coating on the new or repaired board to protect against future corrosion.

 

Multimedia Panel (what I refer to it as)



Button in front console to turn on the 115v plug in the rear cabin area.


Window Shade and opening where I suspect water to have seeped in and corroded the Mm Module. Just below is the rear quarter panel where the Mm Module is said to be housed.


Sorry for the confusion. The -multimedia panel- as I have coined it and the Multimedia Module are two separate things.

Dodge did diagnostics because the media panel located next to the left side sliding door and next to the 3rd row seat bottom is not working and the light for it in the front console is not illuminating when pressed in. They said there is corrosion on the Multimedia Module which is said to be located under the far rear left side quarter panel. I did not allow the repair suspecting it was the result of another underlying issue since AAA battery truck had pointed out to me on a jump-start occasion that the battery is not the original and was replaced as a troubleshooting effort, but have come to suspect that rain water got in through the rear quarter vent window and seeped in to that area through the window shade openings.

Hope this helps clarify things.

 

Most likely someone left the rear quarter vent windows open when it was raining is the cause. The multimedia panel has the 115v inverter integrated in it along with the usb, rca jacks and 12 volt adapter. Water is conductive if it corroded the circuit board it could also cause a leakage to ground that could drain your battery and with the inverter being a non key accessory could be the culprit. I would take the rear multi media panel out bring it to an electronic shop for diagnosis they usually charge $45-$55 to check equipment out cheaper than $140 dealer rate and they should be able to tell if it's repairable or need replacing.

 

If your referring to the panel where the USB plugs and 115v are, I have taken that panel out and it shows no sign of any sort of damage. Dodge said it's the multimedia -module- that has the damage. By the way only the 115v Power Inverter Outlet on the panel is not working, the USB's and socket are working, not sure about the HDMI or RCA's as I have no use forthem.

Which leave me to wonder why if the Mm Module is corroded why would the other items work?

Just checked the manual. It makes no mention of what that panel with all the inputs is appropriately referred to as but it does indicate that the 115v is a Power Inverter Outlet.

 

The inverter is made up with a series of transistors, resistors, capacitor and transformer complete with built in overload protection. The inverter is rated for 150w if something with higher wattage is plugged in it will cause overheating and the overload shut it off to prevent damage once cooled off it should reset itself if it doesn't manual reset might be needed by switching the inverter on and off. Electronic components are highly sensitive if they receive a surge in voltage in any form they could be damage that why high valued electronic equipment are MOV protected against voltage spikes. The only way to confirm if that inverter circuit is good is to have checked out with the proper test equipment.