I've got a pinhole in my Rack & Pinion. Probably need replacement?
It's not at any hose connections, but right in the damn middle where I can't get at it to see (Motor side)
Anyone have a step by step for removal and replacing, or anywhere that I could get a step by step info?
I really can't afford a Mechanics price of an all day job, but can afford the Steering Rack it self, plus an alinement afterwards.

Anyone know what this part of the Rack & Pinion is?? See Attachment:
This is where the steering fluid is spraying out from.
I've googled a 2012 rack & pinion image.

That is the spot where fluid is spraying from. Is it a plug of some sort?

Could it be fixed with a new plug maybe?

 

Call your local library and ask if they have online Alldata, Mitchell or Chiltons available for free. Most libraries have it.

 

Thank You for the reply RickMN.
Appently and I'll assume that nobody has ever worked on a Rack & Pinion before?
All I wanted to know, is what is that spot I've circled on the diagram is? Is it a drain of something like that and maybe just need a new O-ring?
My 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan still sitting in my driveway, waiting for some input with these Dodge Forum people.
Would be greatly appreciated for any input.... Thx

 

For my part, I do apologize for not responding - I remember reading your post and meant to do some digging for you, but then life happened and it slipped my mind.

It’s hard to know exactly what’s under that plug. Most shops anymore don’t repair them because the parts can be difficult to source and in most cases, the cost in labor to repair can be close to, if not more than, just replacing the rack. That’s for a shop, mind you, not for someone doing it in their garage/driveway.

It’s hard to see in the pic but is that plug retained by a snap ring or is it threaded? If a snap ring, there’s most likely a spring under it. If threaded, there may or may not be one. If you can find an ID tag, it’s possible a parts diagram or exploded view can be found to get a better idea. Unless you know for sure the rack hasn’t been replaced before, I don’t want to assume it’s a mopar.

 

The original rack, bought the Van right off the lot and had it ever since.

It's so dang hard to get in there, reach around that motor mount, and feel that spot.
Can't even tell if it's a nipple or screw or whatever...
Well I'm gonna have to shell out the big bucks to get it fixed... sad face.

Thanks for your input GumbyRT

 

After reading back through the thread, I have a couple of other ideas/suggestions-

1) Are you certain it’s the plug and not the line right above it? The lines are easier to source in most cases. Even if it is the plug, it may just be an o-ring, but you’d still have to remove the rack to repair it.

2) You said you’re willing to replace the rack if you have the procedure - the process isn’t that complicated but will require a tie rod separator if you intend to repair and reinstall the rack. I can give you the steps if you’re still interested.

 

Thanks for the reply once again GumbyRT.
No it is not the line, sure wish it was.
But it is a fine spray coming from that on spot circled on diagram I posted.
It would be wonderful if it is a O-ring. This way I wouldn't have to get the whole Rack replaced.

I was meaning to go to local Auto wrecking yard and have a look at a 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan Rack & Pinion, to see exactly what that spot is. But they sold the Rack by time I got to it, Sad face.
I've been keeping my eye out for another Rack, when available on the Internet.
Hate to go to the dealership, probably charge me just to have a look see? Money hungry Bastards. lol

I've got a couple 1/2 Brother's that are very Mechanical and worked/grew up on Cars and motors.
I'm pretty sure we could figure out the procedures of removing a Rack & Pinion after reading them.
Plus there is a similar video on YouTube of a 2008 Rack removal. It's probably very similar?

Would greatly appreciated for the step by step procedure.
If all come to replacing the whole Rack? so be it.
At least we'll get it out if needs new O-ring or replacement.

 

Also I was reading another Rack & Pinion replacement THREAD.
The guy was asking if the Motor needs to be supported after removing all them brackets under the van?
I don't think he got an answer...

 

If you want to attempt repair, there is rack & pinion seal kit available at rockauto.com.

Here’s a rundown on removal - I don’t know how much you’re driving it now, but I recommend being prepared that this could turn into more than a day’s project.

In regards to engine support - only the front and rear mounts are removed - the left and right mounts will still be in place to support the engine. It might lean/rock a little bit with the mounts removed but it won’t fall out; however you may need to lift the engine a little with a jack to remove the mount bolts.

Recommended Tools & Supplies:

1) A basic mechanics tool set with 1/4 and 3/8 drive sockets - make sure to have at least a 21mm (or 13/16) deep well socket. I don’t know the exact size of the outer tie rod nuts, but I’ve never seen one bigger than 21mm on a minivan. 1/2 or 3/8 Breaker bar recommended as well as an assortment of extensions and swivel/u-joint type adapters.

2) A jack and jack stands or other method of supporting the front end with the wheels off.

3) Heavy duty latex gloves, shop grade paper towels, and container(s) to catch PS fluid. Also some type of siphon to empty reservoir (turkey baster or livestock syringes work well).

4) Penetrating oil in addition to other spray lubricant like WD40. At least 1 gallon of new PS fluid.

5) Patience.

6) Cold bottle of back-up patience in the fridge.

7) A plan to take breaks and get refreshment - this can make a huge difference in the course of the repair.

8) A creeper or large sheet of cardboard to lie on.

9) Don’t disregard safety - glasses and wheel chocks/blocks are important.

Here’s the process (reverse for installation). Step 1 is Recommendations, but not requirements, that may help in accessing and seeing the rack for removal.

1) Remove the engine cover, air box, intake tube, battery and battery tray. Study the area around the column - consider whether or not repositioning the master cylinder would help in accessing the column and lines. You should be able to unbolt and reposition it without disconnecting the lines. Consider removing the exhaust between the converters and muffler.

2) Raise and support the front end high enough to work relatively comfortably underneath.

3) Remove wheels, disconnect tie rods from steering knuckles, and remove sway bar links.

4) Drain reservoir and disconnect the return line from the reservoir. Direct line into container (adding a length of hose will help). If your van has a steering wheel lock, turn the key on but don’t start it, then turn the wheel stop to stop to purge fluid from the system. Keep purging until there’s more air than fluid coming out.

This is getting long, so I’m pausing here just to get this posted and prevent some weird phone issue (aka giant, uncoordinated fingers) from accidentally deleting this or closing the window unintentionally. I’ll get the rest posted soon.

 

Moving on.... I have a few pictures that will aid in the process but I’m having trouble uploading them - I’ll try again tomorrow. For now, here’s the rest.

5) Remove the fore-aft crossmember - you’ll need to remove the front mount through bolt to drop the crossmember without unbolting the mount.

6) Remove the heat shield on the right side of the rack.

7) Remove the rear engine mount.

8) Remove any screws that are securing clamps on the PS pressure and return lines so you can reposition them but don’t disconnect them from the rack yet.

9) Remove the bolts for the sway bar brackets and remove sway bar by sliding it out the driver side.

NOTE!! Make absolutely certain the steering wheel is centered (and secured to prevent rotation) before proceeding.

10) Push up on the dust boot around the column to expose the pinch bolt (it will be difficult). Remove the pinch bolt and push/pry on the coupling to disconnect the column from the gear.

11) Disconnect the lines from the rack - be prepared to catch fluid. Remove the mounting bolts for the rack, then remove the rack through the driver side by rotating the rack as shown in the (forthcoming) illustration.

A couple of other things I forgot in the first post -

1) A hammer and pry bar will be useful as well. The tie rods will come out of the knuckles with a couple of “confident” whacks with a hammer, just make sure to protect the threads if you plan to reuse the rack.

2) Think of these steps as more of a checklist than a straightforward process. If it looks like it will be easier to do things in a slightly different order, that’s your call to make.

3) I tried to give you as much detail as I could but I’m sure a few things were overlooked. Wiring, heat shields, fender liners (if you have them) and other obstacles may need to be dealt with as you run into them.

That’s all I have for now - it’s past my bedtime. I’ll get those illustrations posted tomorrow and explain how to bleed the PS system.