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[5th Gen : 08+]: 2010 caravan new battery no power

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Old Jan 16, 2020 | 06:09 PM
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Default 2010 caravan new battery no power

2010 caravan 3.8 v6 my wife took it to work this morning everything worked good. Got off work tried to start and nothing tried to jump and started but shut off when I took cables off so got new battery installed it and it started right up but after maybe 5 mins of running it just died then nothing no lights in the cab or anything even the key fob is stuck in the ignition. Need help I’m so baffled! Thanks
 
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Old Jan 17, 2020 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeb Gardner
2010 caravan 3.8 v6 my wife took it to work this morning everything worked good. Got off work tried to start and nothing tried to jump and started but shut off when I took cables off so got new battery installed it and it started right up but after maybe 5 mins of running it just died then nothing no lights in the cab or anything even the key fob is stuck in the ignition. Need help I’m so baffled! Thanks
Hi Jeb, We certainly understand why this may be concerning. We kindly recommend having your dealer inspect this concern for you as they are in the best position to assist. If you do work with your dealer, we would be more than happy to provide you with additional support.
Rob
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Old Jan 17, 2020 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeb Gardner
2010 caravan 3.8 v6 my wife took it to work this morning everything worked good. Got off work tried to start and nothing tried to jump and started but shut off when I took cables off so got new battery installed it and it started right up but after maybe 5 mins of running it just died then nothing no lights in the cab or anything even the key fob is stuck in the ignition. Need help I’m so baffled! Thanks
Sounds like the alternator is on its way out. If you can get it running again, check voltage at the battery - anything less than 13 volts means it’s done.

If you can’t get it running, pull the alternator off and have it tested at a parts store - almost any of them can do it.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2020 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by GumbyRT
Sounds like the alternator is on its way out. If you can get it running again, check voltage at the battery - anything less than 13 volts means it’s done.

If you can’t get it running, pull the alternator off and have it tested at a parts store - almost any of them can do it.
ok thank you I’ll give that a try and report back
 
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Old Jan 21, 2020 | 08:33 PM
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Ok got the battery recharged it was completely dead and a new alternator. I forgot to mention that before when I put a new battery in and it ran for like 15 mins the esp bas and traction control light was on before it died again and now with the battery recharged and new alternator it started right up but has them 2 lights on again so I was confused and thought something else might be wrong why it’s draining the battery and maybe killing the alternator so I disconnected the battery till I can research and figure out why those lights are still on because I don’t want to go through that again. Any suggestions?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2020 | 09:17 PM
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So you didn’t actually test the alternator, you just replaced it?

If you’re actually interested in figuring out what’s wrong, I’m willing to help, but if you’re just gonna throw parts at it, good luck - I hope your pockets run deep.

The solution isn’t always easy - diagnosis needs to be methodical and requires time, patience, and the desire to learn basic testing procedures for automotive circuits. If you think that’s beyond your skill set, you’re probably better off taking it to a shop.

You need to start by pulling trouble codes for the power train and chassis (ABS and traction control) which will require more than a basic code reader.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2020 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by GumbyRT
So you didn’t actually test the alternator, you just replaced it?

If you’re actually interested in figuring out what’s wrong, I’m willing to help, but if you’re just gonna throw parts at it, good luck - I hope your pockets run deep.

The solution isn’t always easy - diagnosis needs to be methodical and requires time, patience, and the desire to learn basic testing procedures for automotive circuits. If you think that’s beyond your skill set, you’re probably better off taking it to a shop.

You need to start by pulling trouble codes for the power train and chassis (ABS and traction control) which will require more than a basic code reader.
no I tested it and even took it to parts store to make sure but yeah it was toast.

Id say my skill level is decent I know how to read wiring diagrams and testing.

i only have a basic code reader. Gonna try and bet my buddies to check it out
 
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Old Jan 23, 2020 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeb Gardner
no I tested it and even took it to parts store to make sure but yeah it was toast.

Id say my skill level is decent I know how to read wiring diagrams and testing.

i only have a basic code reader. Gonna try and bet my buddies to check it out
Ok - there are plenty of off the shelf code readers capable of pulling ABS codes for cheap ($40-$50) if your friends scanner doesn’t work. The packaging will specify if it’s capable or not. Besides online vendors, Harbor Freight and Northern Tool carry them if you have any local stores.
 
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