Hey

it shuts down instantly. No sputtering or anytning. Honestly i havent noticed if the radio has been on or not.

Thanks

 

@GumbyRT i dont have a fuel pressure test port but i do have see a clip i can disconnect. Its where the test port would be in the image above you sent me. Is it safe to remove that there and crank the engine when it dies on me ? or is there a better location ? i cant seme to find a good video. ill attach a pic of what i mean.

 

 

You can disconnect the fuel line from there or at the filter, but be prepared for fuel to spray out of it. Even if the fuel pump is the reason it’s dying, there will be residual pressure.

If you’re going to check for fuel flow, have a container ready to catch the fuel. This will prevent gas from spilling everywhere and you can also do a quick volume test. The general rule for volume is 1 pint in 30 seconds, so if the pump primes the line for 2 seconds when the key is turned on, you can multiply whatever you catch by 15 for a glimpse of what the pump is delivering (example - 2 oz in 2 seconds times 15 = 30 oz - a good pump should be able to deliver much more than that, although it’s more accurate to run the pump for 5-10 seconds by jumping the fuel pump relay).

However, a pump can deliver good volume but low pressure, and vice versa. I recommend finding a kit like the one here (some auto stores may rent them) - https://www.harborfreight.com/mercha...kit-64939.html - it’s relatively cheap and will allow you to tee into the line so it can be tapped for a pressure gauge. If you do this, DON’T use the worm drive clamps - get clamps specifically for fuel injection - they are on the shelf at most auto parts stores.

That said, you should still be looking at the cam sensor and wiring, but I understand why you’re wanting to check the pump.

 

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-i...xoCPiUQAvD_BwE

 

That kit will work fine.

Immediately after shut down there will be residual pressure no matter if the pump has died.

 

Lets KISS, If you are getting a P340 code, Lets start with that. Camshaft sensor is mounted on the front of the motor. Check your connection and if that is okay. Replace the sensor with a mopar part not aftermarket. The other problem could be a bad flex place. The tone wheel or windows don't line up to the crankshaft sensor which will throw either a cam or crank sensor code. On some early fuel system there wasn't a port to check fuel pressure. Would need to install a fuel line tool from mopar to check fuel pressure.

 

@GumbyRT I sent you a dm about what I did today. I tried to upload a video clip but it wouldn't let me. Can you check the dm when you get a chance ? thanks

 

While this isn't about a Caravan the symptoms sound identical. About 10 years ago my late wife had a 1998 Mercedes C230. She used to drive about 4 miles home from work everyday. After a mile or two it'd shut down exactly as you describe. I'd drive out in my Caravan to pick her up and it'd start and run just fine. I tried replacing the fuel filter with no success so I brought it into a shop that specialized in German cars. The owner called me about two hours later to say the car was fixed! He also said I was very lucky he found the fault so quickly. It seems he had the car running up on the rack while he was underneath and he heard a almost noiseless click when the engine shut down. It was a failing relay and when he replaced the relay the car ran fine. The engine would shut down because of the relay and after a few minutes the relay would reset itself and the engine would once again temporarily run fine.

I hope this helps.

Steve