Would someone please identify the parts below for me?

Thank you,
John



What is the black dealybopper above and should it have a hose on it?




What is the devise that has the hose off of it and is it necessary for that hose to be connected to that box?

 

That is the canister for the evap system. Looks like you have some broken hose and may have a large evap leak. Check engine must be on.

 

It is...what about the little black plastic can with no hose connected to it?

PS - I thought the canister for the evap was under the hood?

Thank you,
John

 

The nipple on the "little black plastic can" should not have hose attached.

 

Replace the broken hose, The little valve that has a hose on each side is called a vent valve. That look normal.

 

Thank you guys...

BTW...

What exactly does the vent can do? (the one with the broken hose) Will the gas milage get a bit better when I replace it?

Thanks again,
John

 

The hose that is broken Should be replace. That hose is part of the canister, not the vent valve. I don't think it going to change your gas mileage. But may help to turn the check engine light off. When you need to do a smog test.

 

I've owned a lot of cars since I replace them every three years or so on account of my high mileage driving. Most newer vehicles I've owned or worked on have the canister up under the vehicle somewhere.

You put cold ~65°F gasoline in your tank, it's a hot summer day so a large portion of that fuel goes from a liquid phase to a gas phase. That canister collects that gas phase in some kind of material (I've heard carbon but I work with propane and we capture it in some kind of plastic feeling mesh). As you drive the pressure in the intake manifold becomes less than 14.7PSI absolute pressure or 0PSI gauge pressure (at sea level, at 25°C) or 0inHg on the vacuum scale, that sucks air from this canister and burns up the gas fumes so the planet is happy and ****.

Your mileage will improve (so little you won't ever notice) because you have unburned potential energy in those fumes that you are letting go. If you fixed this you would notice that just after getting gas, especially on a hot day, that your acceleration is suddenly great. Well that's because you are burning a small amount of extra fuel that is in the gas phase of matter rather than a dispersed liquid, and petrol fumes burn much more completely than a dispersed liquid.

The reason to fix it is because if you knowingly leave it unconnected and leaking then the EPA will fine you into poverty. That's the real consequences of this.

Side note while I ramble, the liquid dispersion pattern from your fuel injector is important. If you keep your fuel injectors clean (which all name brand fuels have cleaner in them) then you will get a more complete burn, and consequently you will not use up your catalytic converter as much, the cat converter is the last line of defense against the unburned fuel and the more unburned fuel it gets the faster it wears out.

 

Also those hoses are all low pressure I believe and can be bought by for $1-$3/ft at an auto parts store or a hardware store. For more they can sell you the hoses bent to the proper shape but still shouldn't be $20. The hose clamps cost too much at parts stores, get those at Walmart or Harbor Freight.

 

1) At idle, a “healthy” engine (meaning one that is in good mechanical condition and has no intake or exhaust restrictions) should pull at least 15 in-Hg vacuum - ideally 18-20. If it’s less than that, it wouldn’t pull enough air into the chamber for proper combustion - at 0 in-Hg, it wouldn’t pull any at all.

2) To my knowledge, the only material used in EVAP canisters is basically crushed charcoal because it’s very porous and can store up to 3 times its surface area (or density - I can never remember which). Most of the time they will be located near the gas tank, but there’s a purge valve mounted in the engine bay that the PCM uses to purge vapors when conditions allow.

3) Another reason to keep the EVAP system sealed is because a leak like this will pull unfiltered and unmetered air into the engine. The PCM only purges the canister during light acceleration and at cruising speed - under those conditions, it wouldn’t be enough air to affect drive ability (although the PCM could possibly read it as a lean condition and adjust fuel trim to the rich side) but it would still be allowing contamination into the engine.