I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan that has been to 4 Mechanics, plus a Dodge Dealer. No one can get this car to run. I have replaced the Crank and Cam sensors, Cat Conv. Fuel Pump, Plugs, Idle Control Sens. PCM and many others. Also the transmission was checked out OK. Has anyone ever had the following problem and found a way to get it running.
Problem. Engine starts up and idles OK at first. When put in gear, the car will not move any faster than a turtle. Absolutely no power. After warm up, engine will stall and will not start again until cold.
Ray

 

Is this a 3.3 or 3.8?

Is the engine responding to the throttle at all or it’s more like you step on the gas and the engine is trying to work (revving up) but the wheels aren’t moving relative to engine speed?

 

Thank you for your reply.

3.3L V6 OHV 12V FFV

The engine first starts OK and revs up normally while in park. When I put the car in gear, it would move forward some, but very slow. I gradually would have to use more gas pedal to keep the car moving until the engine stalls out, which occurs close to the normal operation temperature. The car will now not restart until the engine temp returns back down to cold.

This is the present condition. I can give you a long running history of degrading performance over time with a list of what mechanics have already replaced. So far, all mechanics claim it to be some sort of gas or timing issue.

A brief summary over time. First indication of problem, the car became sluggish in performance. I would have to use the gas pedal gently. If pressed to increase speed rapidly, I would have to lift my foot off of the gas momentarily to make the car shift to the next gear. The car kept getting worse over time to its present condition. The last time I was able to get it on a highway, I could only get the speed up to 30 mpg. Now It doesn't even have enough power to drive it up on a lift.

Again, Thanks for your reply, Ray

 

If the best you’re getting is “some sort of gas or timing issue” from your mechanics, you may want to consider towing it to the next town over.

Time for questions.

Was there any particular event that seemed to trigger the problems at first (filling up the tank, it sat for an extended time, repairs, etc)?

What diagnostic codes are present?

Once it’s warmed up, does it start stumbling or chugging like it’s trying to stay running, or does it just die?

Have you tried pressing the gas pedal to the floor while attempting to restart it, and if so, did it try to start or just crank?

Has the ignition coil been replaced?

Do you have a vacuum gauge? If so, what’s the vacuum reading at idle when it does start?

 

First problem many months ago. Engine light came on and took it to Pep Boys. Replaced Cam sensor. Ran good, but with sluggish performance as still has to lift foot off of gas around 30 mph to make it shift into gear. Drove it about 600 miles before engine light came on again after two weeks. Took it back to Pep Boys. Replaced Crank sensor. (Sorry, do not know the codes as I am not a mechanic.) Car never ran right since. Pep Boys said they could not calibrate the sensors, take it to a dealer. I had transmission checked on my own and was told it was OK, but Cam/Crank code was still in the computer with no engine light on. Took it to a dealer. They had it for three weeks and finally said to replace the Cat Conv. which I had done. New Cat did not help. Was able to drive it home about 30 mph. Took it to another mechanic and had multiple more parts replaced, including new Crank sensor again. I replace the PCM on my own. Car is now in my last reported condition. At engine start, engine sounds great with proper idle until it gets hot, then idle slows way down and runs a little rough. Am able to move it in gear, but not far or fast until it gets hot (normal temp) and stalls. Will not restart until engine temp comes back to cold.

I'm beginning to believe its a timing chain slippage problem. I reviewed on line how to replace. Looks like a major repair and its not worth it. I mayy be looking to get rid of it for parts only. Over $3000 in parts and labor already completed.

Car has 4 new tires, Struts, Shocks, recent brakes, recent radiator, new fuel pump, new plugs and many sensors replaced, plus other parts I may have forgotten.

Vacuum and Coil was checked OK buy at least 2 mechanics.

Note, reason so many new parts were installed was at the first visit to Pep Boys I was told I needed tires, shocks, etc, etc and that the Cam sensor would solve my engine light on problem. Stupid me, said OK. If I did not put $1700 dollars in tires, shocks and other needed parts, I would have given up a long time ago.

 

Correction to my last post. When I first started the engine after installing the new PCM it sounded great and revved up perfect until it got hot. Today I restarted it and found the following. It idles OK and sounds smooth but depressing the gas pedal, it does not seam to rev up as good as when I first installed the new PCM. It revs up slower than normal to about 4000 RPM and bucks. Can not seem to get it to rev up to 5000 rpm. I swear when I first put in the PCM it sounded much better. Did not try to put it into gear.

 

Did you inspect the injector harness on the rear cylinder head?

 

I'm currently trying to resolve the same issue of loss of power and easy on pedal just to get it up to 45 mph. I would have to let up on the pedal just to get it to shift too.
I have a 2004 Grand Caravan 3.8L SXT and have had it for 2 years now.
I've been doing many things to it in the last 4 days including replace transmission filter yesterday and found the magnet at the bottom of the pan was heavily covered with soft gunk. I also disconnected the transmission shift solenoid pack connector, looked inside and found it was wet with trans fluid. It's tough to clean without taking it off but I used some Q-tips soaked with electric contact cleaner spray. I think I might be getting a new one since they are not repairable as it says on the bright metal cover if you clean it off. Mine was covered by old oil residue.
Today I cleaned that single wire sensor just above the oil pan, I believe is the oil pressure switch or oil pressure sensor. Sprayed the connector with CRC Electrical contact cleaner and the single contact on the sensor as well. The connector was covered in oil since I replaced the leaking front head cover gasket last year. Should have cleaned it then but car ran like a champ so I didn't bother disturbing and I thought it was waterproofed with seals like all the other connectors I've seen on the van.
Today I finally checked the radiator cap since buying the van 2 years ago. There was heavy rust deposits just under the cap. Sprayed it vigorously with CRC Electric contact cleaner and used a toothbrush. I think this might solve my collapsed coolant hose when engine is cold. After I did these today and from the last couple days the van is running much better and I think it was in Limp mode and today it ran and accelerated much better than before but have yet to get it on the highway to drive it past 45 mph. It sounds like your problem is related to the cooling system as well. Flush the cooling system? Let me know if that helps. I want to replace the shift solenoid pack next for good measure. They are $60 online and Autozone carries them for $160.