I replaced transmission in 2013 Dodge Ram C/V, 3.6 Pentastar. Engine was running smoothly. After the transmission replacement, engine cranks, kicks (tries to start), that is all. If I hold the accelerator to the floor it MAY start for 2 seconds then dies. All the basics are there, gas, spark, compression. I am aware of the TIPM issue. I can hear the fuel pump turn on with the ignition and stop when up to pressure. To be sure, I direct connected it, no joy. I also "reset" the TIPM by connecting the disconnected battery terminals for overnight, no joy. As I stretched the wiring harness for the transmission replacement, I opened it up in the stressed areas, all good. I pulled the connectors off the ECM, all good. I replaced the crank angle sensor, still no joy. The check engine light is on, showing codes P0420, 0430, 1253, 0456, 0457 and 0113. I do not have a professional scan tool. The new (used) 62TE transmission Neutral /Park interface works as it should.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

Check the ground from the block/head to the body. You will have spark for a moment but resistance will kill it if you have a weak ground. A weak ground can cause codes to throw because every electric part is having it's mind blown with erratic electric current. Before you bother looking for the ground just take a jumper cable and using both sets ground two points on the engine both directly to the negative on the battery. If it fixes the issue you can dig in looking at all the ground wires.

 

Thanks IDon'tGiveARam, I will go over all of the ground connectors tonight. There is a ground strap on a transmission to block bolt so I will go there first.

 

Before you spend the time try the jumper cable trick, or iron bar, or any wire from an unpainted metal surface on the block and/or head first, over to the negative battery cable. That will immediately show that it worked or didn't work.

 

I placed a jumper between the battery and the block, still no joy. I borrowed a scanner, cleared all old codes, cranked the engine over and the only code that came up was the intake air temp, P0113 which is disconnected at the moment

 

As a follow up, I fully tested the Crank Position Sensor and all tests check out, plugged in and not plugged in. Turning the crankshaft over by hand produces the 0 and 5 volts depending on the position of the crank.
Again all grounds are good and the battery voltage is 13.4 V (keeping it charged up).
When turning the crank over by hand and when it drops the Signal wire (#2) to 0 volts, the motorized throttle body valve cycles on and firmly holds the throttle body plate closed. Is this normal???

 

Following because I have the same problem.

 

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated......

 

If grounding with a jumper cable doesn't have an effect then I would rule out weak ground. A cold engine should start with the throttle plate nearly closed (choked). As far as what you are saying about "Signal wire" and whatnot you lost me. I have been working on cars since I was about 8 because we were poor. My first car was $300. While I can fix many things logically I haven't had the displeasure of fixing electrical headaches. Busted shafts, slipping clutch, "what's making that squeeling sound," I'm your man. But past "is it getting 12-14.7 volts" and "is it grounded" I'm **** on electrical issues. Since you likely unplugged the ECU you want to make sure that connection is tight.

You said you have fuel, spark, and air. You can verify air with your OBDII port with the engine off but the key on run. Since it is electronic throttle you can see the % throttle on a reader or the Torque app on a cell phone while you push your gas peddle down to see if 50% is halfway and 97% is floored. I have never seen 0% or 100% so don't make anything of it being 5% to 97% when all the way up or down.
Since you verified ground I have to imagine spark doesn't quit on you.
That leaves fuel and you can check fuel pressure with a checker from Autozone loan a tool or some other parts store loan a tool. You can check volume by disconnecting a gas line AWAY FROM THE ENGINE/SPARKS and putting it in a gas can. Then while you crank you can time how many seconds it takes to fill say 1/4 or 1/2 gallon. https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...diagnostic-kit

Before all that you might want to have someone crank while you spray some starter fluid in the intake hose with the filter off and see if it runs for even a few seconds. If it does put your filter back on and fire it back up.

 

What is your experience? When you turn the key does it crank or just click or just silence? If it cranks does it catch (gas ignites and the engine is turn by explosion if even for a second)? Does it run and then die, and if so how many seconds or minutes before it dies?