Charger R/T sloppy handling
I test drove an 07 R/T Charger today and loved everything but the slop. It didn't respond well to miner steering adjustments on on ramps when accelerating. It was also very unerving over 90 MPH. Are ther sway bars available or do I have to go as far as replacing springs to fix this? I am a real estate agent and will shuttle customers around in this so I don't want too stiff of a ride but this thing was way worse then my 04 QC Ram and for a truck to out handle a car is just bad news.
My 06 R/T is fantastic. I have not noticed any slop, lazyness or anything bad about the way it handles. If it`s not to your liking, try another car or try the R/T with the Road and Track option. I understand it handles better.
Scott
Scott
I've been shopping for quite a while now and finding something in my price range that it sporty enough and has a big enough trunk to get my kids wheelcahir in has been a challenge. It might actually pull more g-forces then my truck but the body roll made it feel very bad. Like I said I really liked the car and am hoping I can find a way to make it work. Are there sway bars available?
Everything I have seen about the road and track just sais performance suspension and steering but it doesnt say what that means, I know it has the leveling shocks but what other parts does that include?
Stoker, have you driving more than one? The reason I ask is because it sounds to me like one problem is that the toe in may not be set properly. If you haven't, try another car. I have an 06 R/T and I noticed that it seemed to want to wander all over the road. I complained, almost from day one, that the ride was harsh on small bumps and the car was almost impossible to hold in a straight line on the open road. I finally had the alignment checked (at a Ford dealership where my son works) and, among other things, it turned out that the toe in was not set correctly. Originally, specs called for the tow in to be set about -1 degree, i.e., both wheels are turned slightly inward.That will make the car more responsive to minor steeing inputs. What I was experiencing what is commonly referred to as "bump steer". Small bumps would tend to change the direction of the car - not a fun thing at all.New specs, which the "expert" at my dealer apparently had no idea about, changed the tow in zero, i.e., the wheels now point straight a head. Now, my car still turns well, but does not wander, is not prone to "bump steer", andis much nicer, i.e., more funto drive on the open road.
As far as sway bars, the R/T does have sway bars. The Road and Track package has, in additionto the self-leveling rear shocks,bigger, i.e., stiffer sway bars which will correct some of the body roll. I am having new springs put on mine because I believe that DCX totally screwed up on the stock R/T suspension (the Daytonas seem to be better) - both spring-wise and the valving in the shocks and struts. My assessment, and I have confirmed my suspicions with those in the business, is that the suspension is too stiff where it needs to be soft - in the initial couple of inches of travel - and too soft, towards the middle and end of suspension travel, where it needs to be stiffer. My car wallows through dips it the road on the highway. The new springs are supposed to correct some of this. I got them from Pedders. They are in Austrailia, but I have been talking with the president of the company's U.S. affiliate. The springs are on, but the rear springs turned out to be too short. I was told before hand that this was a possibility. Pedders is paying - out of their pocket - for shipping of new, longer rear springs, and they are paying for the return shipping of the short springs. In addition, they are paying for the removal of the "old" short springs, and installation for the new, longer springs. They already had the longer springs on hand, so it wasn't something they just threw together because mine were too short.
The new rear springs are supposed to arrive on Tuesday. I will, hopefully, get my car back on Wednesday. The installer said he drove the car after the current installation and said the car road pretty rough. I passed this on to Pedders, and was told that my car was experiencing "bush bind". The installation process includes driving the car around the parking lot with everything still loose, to allow the bushings and everything to "recenter" themselves. The installer had not done this. Then the car goes on the allignment rack and at that point things are tightened up and the alignment set. I will post on here how it is when I get it back and how satisfied I am with it.
I have to say that Pedders has been very, very helpful, and more than willing to bend over backwards to satisfy me. The car will be about an inch lower than it is in stock trim, and that will also help with cornering in lowering the center of gravity, and thereby reducing some of the body roll.
I hope this answers some of your questions. If it works, It will be a much nicer riding car. I've read comments from other Pedders customers, including one guy with a Hemi Magnum who complained of a harsh ride after the intial installation. After the components were loosened up and the bushings allowed to "align" themselves, he was a happy camper. The "generic" response is: "It rides firmer, but has a much better, more controlled, ride".
Look for a post from me towards the middle of this week as to how it all turns out.
dave
As far as sway bars, the R/T does have sway bars. The Road and Track package has, in additionto the self-leveling rear shocks,bigger, i.e., stiffer sway bars which will correct some of the body roll. I am having new springs put on mine because I believe that DCX totally screwed up on the stock R/T suspension (the Daytonas seem to be better) - both spring-wise and the valving in the shocks and struts. My assessment, and I have confirmed my suspicions with those in the business, is that the suspension is too stiff where it needs to be soft - in the initial couple of inches of travel - and too soft, towards the middle and end of suspension travel, where it needs to be stiffer. My car wallows through dips it the road on the highway. The new springs are supposed to correct some of this. I got them from Pedders. They are in Austrailia, but I have been talking with the president of the company's U.S. affiliate. The springs are on, but the rear springs turned out to be too short. I was told before hand that this was a possibility. Pedders is paying - out of their pocket - for shipping of new, longer rear springs, and they are paying for the return shipping of the short springs. In addition, they are paying for the removal of the "old" short springs, and installation for the new, longer springs. They already had the longer springs on hand, so it wasn't something they just threw together because mine were too short.
The new rear springs are supposed to arrive on Tuesday. I will, hopefully, get my car back on Wednesday. The installer said he drove the car after the current installation and said the car road pretty rough. I passed this on to Pedders, and was told that my car was experiencing "bush bind". The installation process includes driving the car around the parking lot with everything still loose, to allow the bushings and everything to "recenter" themselves. The installer had not done this. Then the car goes on the allignment rack and at that point things are tightened up and the alignment set. I will post on here how it is when I get it back and how satisfied I am with it.
I have to say that Pedders has been very, very helpful, and more than willing to bend over backwards to satisfy me. The car will be about an inch lower than it is in stock trim, and that will also help with cornering in lowering the center of gravity, and thereby reducing some of the body roll.
I hope this answers some of your questions. If it works, It will be a much nicer riding car. I've read comments from other Pedders customers, including one guy with a Hemi Magnum who complained of a harsh ride after the intial installation. After the components were loosened up and the bushings allowed to "align" themselves, he was a happy camper. The "generic" response is: "It rides firmer, but has a much better, more controlled, ride".
Look for a post from me towards the middle of this week as to how it all turns out.
dave
Wow, information like that only comes from experience and spending time learning the topic, great detail Dave!
Looking forward to your feelings when the ride settles in and seeing the difference from stock inthe ride height.
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Looking forward to your feelings when the ride settles in and seeing the difference from stock inthe ride height.
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The problem i noticed wasn't toe. I wasn't aying particular attention to toe so there may be some improvement to be had there but it wasn't the cause of the slop. The bigger sway bar might fix things a bit so maybe I need to find one with the road and track package. How much are you spending on those springs and I've never heard of Pedders is that a Mopar affiliate or what.
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I drove 7 Chargers before I took the one I have now, ALL OF THEM had how tire presure, they run them at about 35 pounds and it makes the car deley in turning and wonder all over when you try to turn fats. I inflated mine to 44 pounds and it is tight at low speeds 25-45 miles per hour, at high speeds in curves like on raps to freeways I will get some body roll over 80 and some tired screeching. To get rid of that you will need to lower the car and maybe add some sway bars... I suggest going fully adjustable coilovers if you can shell out $1500. I plan on that in few weeks. Making sure the the tires are in alignment will also help.
I can buy the tire presure being low. There was a yellow icon on the dash that looked like a tire with some squigly lines which I assumed was a low preasure light. I never put 2 and 2 together. maybe I need for them to air it up and try again.


