So I just bought a 2002 Dodge Dakota extended cab 4x4. The brakes were kind of sketchy so I started with the rear and am having nothing but issues. I bought a set of shoes, spring kit and adjuster kits from advance auto. Shoes are part number FR538. Also bought Raybestos 2988R drums.

All that went together ok but the little clip that the cable for the adjuster rides on has popped out of place multiple times. The new drums seem to rub the very bottom of the left side backing plate. I looked at the old one and it seems like it rubbed also as I see un-rusted metal on the old drum.

I have done tons of brakes but this thing is driving me nuts. As for drum brakes, I've done many of those also. My first car was a 65 mustang with drums all the way around and I used to go through those quickly.

Could the backing plate be warped or bent? I've never run into that before. Also, it seems like I really have to mash the pedal. Any known issues or tricks that anyone can let me in on?

Thanks
Mike

 

Just some thinks i can think of.

If I not mistaken there are 2 different size brake shoes and drums for the dodge 9 and 10 inch make sure you have the correct one.

Make sure you are getting good fluid to the rear.

I adjust the rear out where the drum just goes on. pump the breaks then adjust again until drum just barely goes on, adjust again you get the ideal.

make sure the drum doesn't have a wear lip you said they were new so they shouldn't just sayin'

the shoes have 2 different thicknesses make sure one each for each side.

I think the thicker shoe goes in the front but could be wrong.

wheel cylinder could also be stickin'

just some thinks to check

kilgore

edit

think there is a check valve or something up front a little square block where the type of brake line changes. had to replace the main line leading to the rear on mine this past summer and I just by-passed that block and used a union to to make the correct line. just another thought.

kilgore

Almost forgot,,, welcome to the forum.

Kilgore

no the thicker shoe goes in the rear. when the e-brake cable is pulled, the cable pulls on the e-brake lever(activeator) and makes the rear shoe move out toward the hub before the front shoe. If that is true then the thicker shoe goes in the rear. If the e-brake lever moves the front shoe first then the thicker shoe goes in the front. Like I said I can't remember you will just have to look at yours and see.

Kilgore

 

Thanks for all the good info Kilgore! I spent some time on it yesterday and found some things. First off I learned to never assume that the person before you knew what they were doing. I put everything back together the way thy had it and was running into all kind of issues. I found a drawing in the service manual and see that the springs and adjuster cable were all wrong. After I fixed that, things were somewhat better.

Second I found that the backing plate on the left side is bent. The bottom of the plate rubs the new drum. I swapped drums and it does it with both. I'm not sure how it could be bent like that. I beat the hell out of it with a hammer to try and move it back. I did get it to stop rubbing but it still aint right.

I was thinking the same thing and tried to bleed the brakes but the bleeders are rusty little boogers. I can't break them loose. The pedal feels kinda spongy like there may be air in the line. Someone replaced the line from the front to the ack but the others look to be the old ones and are rusted all to hell. Not sure where I am going with that yet.

 

Not sure how high your brake fluid level is but after bleeding my fronts after caliper replacement my pedal was spongy until I filled the reservoir to the top line then it seem to stiffen up

 

I checked that and it is full. the thing that makes me wonder is that the replaced brakeline looks rather new and my bleeders dont look like they have been cracked open since say... 2002? they are so rusted that i'm worried they will crush when i try to turn them with vice grips. i tried a wrench and a socket an there is nothing to grab but rust.

 

low pedal could be adjusters not set right... yeah they are supposd to self adjust when you hit the brakes in Reverse, but 1 click at a time if its out a few turns thatll take forever and they nevr seem to adjust up to the point of a good old manual adjustment...

 

I think the wheel cylinders are $10.00 -+

just got to take the breaks back apart PITA

could try to take the break line loose where it connects to the splitter on the axle

that could help a little

side note. 2 days ago was opening a pack of cigarettes in a curve. curve straightened out before the truck did. sideswiped the curb and destroyed front and back passenger side tires. while changing the rear tire noticed the drum came off too easy. will have to adjust both sides sometime here in the near future. I don't remember if mine has the hole cut in the plate or not. self adjusters NEVER work like they should. the number one cause of front pads wearing out before the should is the rear shoes not adjusted correctly.

Kilgore

 

Yeah, $10 a piece is ok, I just need to get the thing on the road. I bought it so I didn't have to drive my Charger in the salt and snow. I messed with the backing plate some more and it is much better but I still think I want to bleed the system in the spring. Actually, I have had the rear brakes off so many times now, I made a video on how to do it. Ha.

I replaced the front rotors and pads also. When removing the front caliper, I found that there were no threads in the steering knuckle. I was able to use those oversized caliper slide bolts. They worked quite well.

Got to watch those curbs! Yeah, the self adjusters suck. I am going to let those brakes set in for a week or so then adjust them back up and see where we are.

 

Good vid. New parts shine like new money. Like that the spring on the adjusting arm, for the self adjuster, that rest against the shoe that keeps the adjuster from backing off seen @6:52 or so in the vid was there.

Have seen the spring that pulls the bottom of the shoes together be on wrong and keep the adjuster from spinnin also. Thanks for reminding me which brake shoe goes in back. couldn't remember without looking at it.

Those oversized threaded caliber bolts are a life saver. Think it was a recall or something but not sure. Package I got said not to use 2 bolts on the same caliber but hell I did and it works. I also put a little low-strength locktite on them just to make sure they don't back out.

The next option would be to drill out the threads and put in a helicoil. Use high-strength locktite to hold the helicoil in place. Once dry then but it all back together.

Or replace the caliber bracket.

Good vid. Good to see you used a jack stand. Safety is always first. Couldn't see if scotched the front tire but I will say yep for safety's sake.

well good buddy keep the shiny side up and the dirty side down. we gone catch you on the flip-flop.

Kilgore

 

quite support discussion it has been yet to me to go though as i have faced the same trouble in past and had to juggle a lot to make it right as i was out of mind to go good with it .. but now has got some facts regarding the fix to the wear