i'll get right to it.. Here is the problem... I was driving my fiance's 1985 chrysler laser with a 2.2L turbo engine. And when I was driving all of a sudden i lost power... I went to accelerate and nothing, It was still idleing but won't not rev/accelerate... So i coasted then pulled into a parking lot, kept it running opened the hood and tried to rev it using the linkages and nothing, still won't rev. So I shut it off and tried to restart it, and it wouldn't. All it would do is just crank. So Pulled it home, tested for spark, still good, tested for fuel, still good. So now i have no idea what to do... Any Ideas guys??? Thanks!!!!!!!

 

Sounds like it is a TPS problem - Throttle position sensor.

 

My 85 non-turbo 2.2 did that. You hit the gas and it bogs down, almost stalls. When my TPS (P.O.S.) started to go I would have to shut the car the car off and let it cool down for 15-20 minutes, then it would start and run fine until it got hot again. Gotta love computer controlled cars... NOT!

 

almost sounds like a bad map sensor, unplug it and try to start it, if it starts replace it. i should be located on the passenger side shock tower. unplug the conector not the vaccum hose. it worked when i worked for disch chrysler in the early 90's

 

First off...cycle the ignition key 3 time.. ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF

this gives you the codes the computer stores..

hut your engine off if it is running. Turn the iginition key to the on and off positions (do not turn the key to the start position) within 5 seconds using this sequence: ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON.

The "Power Loss", "Limited", or "Check Engine" light will begin flashing. By counting the number of flashes between delays, you will retrieve two digit numbers. So, for a code 12 and a code 55, you would see the following sequence:

FLASH-(delay)-FLASH-FLASH-(long delay)
FLASH-FLASH-FLASH-FLASH-FLASH-(delay)-FLASH-FLASH-FLASH-FLASH-FLASH

All code sequences end with a code 55, so once you've received a 55 there are no further messages. If you just receive a code 55, that means there are no codes to send (the ECU thinks everything is OK). It is also normal see a code 33 if you do not have air conditioning. You will never see more than 7 flashes in a row, so watch for delays. A code will stay in the ECU for 15 engine on/off cycles, so don't expect a code to disappear immediately after you make a repair. To see if you have fixed the problem that generated the code, your can erase all codes by removing power to the ECU (by disconnecting the battery or otherwise) for about 10 minutes. This will clear the ECU's memory and generate code 11 and code 12. Crank or start the engine to see if the code in question returns. The code 11 should disappear as soon as the engine is cranked and the code 12 will disappear after 15 on/off cycles.

When the ECU has a failure of a major sensor or component, it will activate a "limp-in" mode. In this mode, it will ignore data from the failed sensor and use backup values for timing, injector pulse width, etc. This allows you to "limp in" to your service station (or home) to allow you to repair the problem. If your vehicle suddenly starts to run badly and/or the power loss light comes on, the first thing you should do when you get home is to check the codes.

After the codes have been delivered, you can try the switch tests. These tests are for all driver inputs (brakes, A/C switch, cruise, etc). The test is performed by simply pressing the switches and pedals. If the input is working properly, the power loss light will come on when it is activated and will go out when it is deactivated.


check out this link for the list of codes..


http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/fault/index.html



Mark

 

Also just to be sure... follow my troubleshooting guide:

1. check and make sure the Timing belt has not broken or jumped..

take the cover off the timing belt and see if it's ate up or missing teeth.. if so replace it..

2. Cracked vaccum lines--see if any are broken..

3. replace the fuel filter (yeah I wanted to throw that in there..)


the engine/computer codes will tell you if you have any sensor problems..

if you need any help..just email me


mark

 

hello,
I have a problem with my daytona. It misses out real bad at lower rpms and when Im just cruising at like 25 and also when I start it up it revs up tp like 2000 thenbacks down. Im pretty sure its a tps sensor but IM not sure. Any info would be nice thanks.

 

When those cars are cold..they do rev up until warm...very much so on the TI and TII motors...

What year do you have and what motor do you own?

 

Also keep in mind the O2 sensor for that one. Mine has that problem now and the O2 sensor is bad...

 

its a 1989 2.2 turbo. I just replaced the o2 sensor and map sensor. its real like sluggish at a lower rpms then you just give it gas and smooths out as get higher rpms.