A True CAI for the RT w/Pics!
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Joined: Apr 2005
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RE: A True CAI for the RT w/Pics!
I've got an SXT, just purchased the Airraid setup that keeps your stock box, just turn your closed box to an open box with a cone filter. I like that setup with running the pipe to the front of the grill. Do you run into an issue with moisture when it rains? I had thought of doing something like this in my Mag, but wasn't sure of the rain. Do you have to angle the tube? If you can, take some more pics so I can see exactly how you set it up. The locations of the hemi box and v6 box I think are in the same location.
Joined: Mar 2005
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RE: A True CAI for the RT w/Pics!
Here are more pics of my airbox. I removed the silencer (took it out to examine - obviously there's no real restriction here, but decided to leave it out, I don't mind a little extra air noise). As you can see, I also left the splash panel off. So I'm also getting cool air from down below, and driving through a puddle wouldn't be a problem since I don't have a tube with a filter hanging down there to act like a vacuum cleaner. I also used a K&N drop in filter in the box for the reusable aspect. I wrapped the intake tube going to the throttle body with 1" fiberglass tape to prevent heat saturation. Very effective, but I'm probably going to eventually do something that looks a little nicer. And no, I haven't experienced any problems with moisture.
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Joined: Mar 2005
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RE: A True CAI for the RT w/Pics!
Pic showing the lovely black tape over my insulation...admittedly not the prettiest thing, but it was dirt cheap and it works.
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Joined: Nov 2004
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RE: A True CAI for the RT w/Pics!
Mag Force,
Don't know if you ever saw mine. Here is the double insulated before insulating. I use a double wall tube...the inside is a 4 inch cellular walled (1/4 inch thick) ABS tube surrounded by a double row of bubble pack encased in aluminum foil, then a 5 inch aluminum tube, and finally an outer layer of bubble pack. The elbow has the bubble pack held in place with aluminum tape. Like yours, not the prettiest, but very functional. Intake air, in town, runs only 10-20 degrees above ambient (today 104 degrees). After a stop at idle four about 5 minutes it finally got up to 40 above. Normal stop at a light will get it up to 30 above, but it quickly recovers to below 20. (There is still heat soak) On the highway it runs at ambient or a degree less??? I am using a Scan Gauge taking a reading right off the IAT sensor and the outside temp. comes from the EVIC. I also have the same type duct into the front of the airbox that you have. Watch for the results of my Intake Tests....Stock (already posted),
https://dodgeforum.com/m_230964/mpag.../tm.htm#230964
then with K and N drop in, then with the duct in the front, and finally with the insulated intake duct. I am almost done with Phases 2 and 3, and will post soon.
Don't know if you ever saw mine. Here is the double insulated before insulating. I use a double wall tube...the inside is a 4 inch cellular walled (1/4 inch thick) ABS tube surrounded by a double row of bubble pack encased in aluminum foil, then a 5 inch aluminum tube, and finally an outer layer of bubble pack. The elbow has the bubble pack held in place with aluminum tape. Like yours, not the prettiest, but very functional. Intake air, in town, runs only 10-20 degrees above ambient (today 104 degrees). After a stop at idle four about 5 minutes it finally got up to 40 above. Normal stop at a light will get it up to 30 above, but it quickly recovers to below 20. (There is still heat soak) On the highway it runs at ambient or a degree less??? I am using a Scan Gauge taking a reading right off the IAT sensor and the outside temp. comes from the EVIC. I also have the same type duct into the front of the airbox that you have. Watch for the results of my Intake Tests....Stock (already posted),
https://dodgeforum.com/m_230964/mpag.../tm.htm#230964
then with K and N drop in, then with the duct in the front, and finally with the insulated intake duct. I am almost done with Phases 2 and 3, and will post soon.
Joined: Jul 2004
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RE: A True CAI for the RT w/Pics!
Home made units are great and if you really don’t mind spending the time and don’t care how it looks then its great...Well as good as a Volant design if you are careful to build it correctly.
Still no one has tested the temperature coming out of the blowby tube at idle and at full speed. Hmm I wonder why the at speed test always comes out around the same???????????? Try it I think you will be surprised at the temp at full speed/load.
As i had posted the cover for the tube makes it heat resistant and yes it should be on before you get the engine bay warm as to not cause the trapping of heat already on the pipe.
Now comes the flow lesson for those who do not know or quite understand.
#1 going up 1 size will offset the turbulence effect from a corrugated /flexible tube. This means if you want to run flexible pipe and not suffer drag handicaps use a pipe one size larger.
#2 Each turn in your pipe has a linier drag effect. This means add up all the turns in the pipe and this combined drag is applied to the efficiency of the air coming into your engine. Then apply the larger diameter to assist with drag reduction. A half inch larger pipe will giver a system better flow.
#3 even though the intake pulls from the "box" it is fed by the "snorkel". Yes the snorkel is a huge restriction...and a safety system to put dodge lawyers at ease. So the stock system has all the same restrictions from all the bends and turns as well as the snorkel and the heat coming from the engine blowby.
Get it?
So if you must mess around make sure you disconnect the blowby first. Then test the temp. Then insulate the heck out of the intake cool it mat works great. Then do not use pvc pipe that is a sure way to look like a fool. Use the proper ducting. Make sure you also set it up to have the option to place a filter on your ducting and remove the stock filter for faster times.
In the end to do it right you end up copying what phantom designed or if you must keep your blowby system and box you are coping a Volant system.
The difference between buying dishes and making them???? Think about it.
It’s not the ability so much as the ease of purchase VS backyard messing. For a realistic cost breakdown be sure to include the value of your time as you are currently paid. You will find your fun turns into a $500.00 project if you include your time. Not bad but please lets be serious you wouldn’t make me one for the price of parts.
I have learned as well that most who buy airintakes are after looks…not performance. The issue of performance is a good selling point. Many need the 21hp claim to feel they were partially justified in their purchase. Common an open filter taking on engine heat is a cool looker but really it is not a serious performance option. The homemade deal is much closer to performance than the k&N or Airaid kits.
Don’t take my word for it there was a article made by a dodge shadow owner doing ram air tests on his car and even he figured it out. You wouldn’t believe the number of times forums have gone through this mess of intake information.
Ty
Still no one has tested the temperature coming out of the blowby tube at idle and at full speed. Hmm I wonder why the at speed test always comes out around the same???????????? Try it I think you will be surprised at the temp at full speed/load.
As i had posted the cover for the tube makes it heat resistant and yes it should be on before you get the engine bay warm as to not cause the trapping of heat already on the pipe.
Now comes the flow lesson for those who do not know or quite understand.
#1 going up 1 size will offset the turbulence effect from a corrugated /flexible tube. This means if you want to run flexible pipe and not suffer drag handicaps use a pipe one size larger.
#2 Each turn in your pipe has a linier drag effect. This means add up all the turns in the pipe and this combined drag is applied to the efficiency of the air coming into your engine. Then apply the larger diameter to assist with drag reduction. A half inch larger pipe will giver a system better flow.
#3 even though the intake pulls from the "box" it is fed by the "snorkel". Yes the snorkel is a huge restriction...and a safety system to put dodge lawyers at ease. So the stock system has all the same restrictions from all the bends and turns as well as the snorkel and the heat coming from the engine blowby.
Get it?
So if you must mess around make sure you disconnect the blowby first. Then test the temp. Then insulate the heck out of the intake cool it mat works great. Then do not use pvc pipe that is a sure way to look like a fool. Use the proper ducting. Make sure you also set it up to have the option to place a filter on your ducting and remove the stock filter for faster times.
In the end to do it right you end up copying what phantom designed or if you must keep your blowby system and box you are coping a Volant system.
The difference between buying dishes and making them???? Think about it.
It’s not the ability so much as the ease of purchase VS backyard messing. For a realistic cost breakdown be sure to include the value of your time as you are currently paid. You will find your fun turns into a $500.00 project if you include your time. Not bad but please lets be serious you wouldn’t make me one for the price of parts.
I have learned as well that most who buy airintakes are after looks…not performance. The issue of performance is a good selling point. Many need the 21hp claim to feel they were partially justified in their purchase. Common an open filter taking on engine heat is a cool looker but really it is not a serious performance option. The homemade deal is much closer to performance than the k&N or Airaid kits.
Don’t take my word for it there was a article made by a dodge shadow owner doing ram air tests on his car and even he figured it out. You wouldn’t believe the number of times forums have gone through this mess of intake information.
Ty
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 43
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RE: A True CAI for the RT w/Pics!
Oh I almost forgot if you use flexible pipe with secure and uniform insulation you not only get good looks but a pipe with less drag. I have some very cool corrugated aluminum pipe that I use. ... Yes it is not free. So if you really want a “cool†intake that actually performs then that is the way to go.
Again in the end you will find the homemade deals will end up with filters lower and the intake system will mimic most if not all of the options on the phantom intake...the one that was said to be ??bad?????
lol
I just can’t wait for the next breakthrough.
Ty
Again in the end you will find the homemade deals will end up with filters lower and the intake system will mimic most if not all of the options on the phantom intake...the one that was said to be ??bad?????
lol
I just can’t wait for the next breakthrough.
Ty
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RE: A True CAI for the RT w/Pics!
Joined: Mar 2005
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RE: A True CAI for the RT w/Pics!
ORIGINAL: MAGNUM FORCE
I just joined this party and didn't read the entire 20 pages, so my apologies if I missed something, but looking at the photos of the CAI system on page one, if that's what we're talking about here, here's my opinion:
That metal tube running in front of the radiator is going to raise the temp via heat soak more than any supposed reduction in temp by sticking the filter way down low (where it will get soaked the first time you drive it in the rain). Besides, the stock airbox already picks up air from just a few inches above this location and is protected by a splash guard.
As far as improving airflow, the intake tube only needs to be as large as the bore of the throttle body, so anything larger than the stock tube is just going to be a reduction in air velocity.
NOW I WOULD LIKE TO STAND UP AND BOLDLY PROCLAIM: NO ONE HAS MADE A BETTER CAI THAN THE FACTORY BOX AS OF YET - THERE'S SIMPLY NOTHING WRONG WITH IT! QUIT WASTING YOUR MONEY! YOU CAN STICK YOUR ARM THROUGH THE WHOLE THING, AND IT ALREADY GRABS AIR FROM OUTSIDE THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT! IF YOU REALLY WANT TO GET "COOLER" AIR, CUT A HOLE IN THE FRONT OF THE STOCK AIRBOX AND RUN A PIECE OF 3" PVC UP TO THE AREA BEHIND THE GRILLE, THEN WRAP THE INTAKE TUBE WITH SOME INSULATION. DONE! COST: A FEW BUCKS! THANK YOU AND GOODNIGHT![:'(]
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I just joined this party and didn't read the entire 20 pages, so my apologies if I missed something, but looking at the photos of the CAI system on page one, if that's what we're talking about here, here's my opinion:
That metal tube running in front of the radiator is going to raise the temp via heat soak more than any supposed reduction in temp by sticking the filter way down low (where it will get soaked the first time you drive it in the rain). Besides, the stock airbox already picks up air from just a few inches above this location and is protected by a splash guard.
As far as improving airflow, the intake tube only needs to be as large as the bore of the throttle body, so anything larger than the stock tube is just going to be a reduction in air velocity.
NOW I WOULD LIKE TO STAND UP AND BOLDLY PROCLAIM: NO ONE HAS MADE A BETTER CAI THAN THE FACTORY BOX AS OF YET - THERE'S SIMPLY NOTHING WRONG WITH IT! QUIT WASTING YOUR MONEY! YOU CAN STICK YOUR ARM THROUGH THE WHOLE THING, AND IT ALREADY GRABS AIR FROM OUTSIDE THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT! IF YOU REALLY WANT TO GET "COOLER" AIR, CUT A HOLE IN THE FRONT OF THE STOCK AIRBOX AND RUN A PIECE OF 3" PVC UP TO THE AREA BEHIND THE GRILLE, THEN WRAP THE INTAKE TUBE WITH SOME INSULATION. DONE! COST: A FEW BUCKS! THANK YOU AND GOODNIGHT![:'(]
[IMG]local://upfiles/13951/AF82C2131AA5405C89215BA6EAB74821.jpg[/IMG]