Not to mention the fact the a quality synthetic additive package will last thousands of miles more so even if you change religiously at 3K the dino oil's package is near the end of it's life while a change at 7500 with the synthetic will reveal that the synthetic has many more miles left in it.

Synthetic oil also has much more resistance to heat, so when you run hot and the dino oil breaks down leaving bearings unprotected (even for a split second) the synthetic would have no problem with providing the necessary protection.

 

I have used Mobil One for about 15 years in Ford's, Pontiac's etc, never had an oil burner or leaker, cars had over 200,000 miles on them, one, the Ford, still going strong. I moved to Mobile One when I lived in Winnipeg Canada, minus 40F makes for tough starts on an engine. With mineral oil the Pontiac would hardly turn over, put in Mobile One and she cranked off no problem.
Question I have is I just took delivery of my R/T, 800 miles so far, looking to change to Mobil One at first change, but then I get this letter from Daimler Chrysler saying they may well reject warranty on any engine failure if I dont follow their maintenance schedules. I have always run the Mobil One for 10,000 miles before an oil change and used Mobile Filters, so, that would take me well beyond the requirements in the maintenance manual.
That is the only way the added cost makes sense
Anyone have any opinions.

 

The Magnum's 5.7L needs 5w-20 motor oil. Mobel does not have a synthetic in that weight. I have heard of people running 0w-20 synth instead. This valve turn off thing that runs by oil and is very tempermental to viscosity of motor oil. So for that reason alone I would shy away from the Mobel 1 untill that viscosity is available.

Casteroil make a synthetic in the 5w-20 that is recomended for our motors. Use a better quality oil filter. Dont go for the cheapest one. (Come on..fess up.. we all do it)

As for time intervals in changing your oil. Yes, we all agree that synthetic is a better lubricant then dyno oil. Put yourself in the shoes of the manufacturors and its your money that needs to cover the cost of warrentee work. Dodge is in the buisness of making money. If someone tells you they, or any other auto manufacturor, cares about you be carefull, they will lie about other things to. You need to follow the money because when push comes to shove, thats what matters. You now have a guy standing in one of your service departments with a toasted uper end of there motor. Its going to cost the dealership/ Dodge $2500.00 total to fix the problem. If YOU are the owner of the company, and the person didnt follow the service scheadual, would YOU pay the $2500.00? Neither would I. Sorry buisness is buisness.

Follow the maintainance scheadual. Keep receits. Document everything. Dont be lazy in this area. Pay for the extra oil changes rather then streatching it a few thousand miles. Just the piece of minde is worth the cash. If you cant swing the synthetic price, go for the dyno oil. The point is the scheadual you follow is just as important as the quality of parts you use in your Magnum.

Out side of that.. I have no strong oppinion. [8D]

 

Castrol doesn't make a true synthetic, use either dino oil or true sythetic. True sythetics are Mobil 1, Redline, Royal Purple or Amsoil.

It is true the HEMI (only the HEMI) requires use of 5W-20 oil for control of the valves for the MDS system, however using a thinner oil is fine as well and if using sythetic stepping up the viscosity to a 10W-30 would also be fine.....ONLY IF IT IS A TRUE SYTHETIC. Mobil 1's 10W-30 has far superior film rate than any dino 5W-20 and it's flow characteristics surpass even 0W-20 dino oil.

 

Dodgemerch,

I must be a little confused. Castrol has Syntec in 5w/20 and Syntec Blend in 5w/20 as well. From reading there product data sheets on the Syntec Blend it clearly states that it is a blend of Synthetic and Dino oils.
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp..._blend_usa.pdf

Reading the Syntec data sheets, they certainly lead you to belive that the Syntec is a 100% synthetic oil. I just went out to the gurage and read the bottle that Syntec comes in and it says, " Full Synthetic Motor Oil. "
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...syntec_usa.pdf

I would be very interested in seeing the data that claims it is not a Full Sinthetic.

Thanks so much.

 

ramification,
You are correct, Castrol makes both a full syn and a blend. Quaker State also offers the same choices. What gives me 'piece of mind' is the flow qualities of a full syn at low temps. Cold start up of any engine is crucial in getting proper lubrication and syn will keep more a constant viscosity at low temps as well as high temp.

 

Dodgemech,

In post #2 of this thread you say, "Save your money, synthetic blend is no better than pure dino oil." Then in post #21 you say that synthetic is superior to Dino oil. Which is it? In post #2 were you generalizing about synthetic or just not being clear in not talking about pure syntehtic. I imagine Castrol would be interested to know that their syntec is not pure synthetic.

 

As stated earlier, the ONLY makers of pure synthetic oil are Mobil, Redline, Royal Purple, and Amsoil.

All other makers who claim synthetic on the bottle are .......stretching the truth.

There have been numerous threads on this already so I won't go into all the details, basically the way gov't has categorized "synthetic oil" leaves a huge window. The oil does not have to be 100% synthetic to be advertised as such. The above suppliers are the only ones who actually formulate 100% pure synthetic oil.

Yes, using true synthetic is much better for the engine than dino oil.

 

Here is a quick paragraph that does a good job of explaining true sythetic vs. wanna-be's. I'm pretty sure Castrol knows they not using full sythetic oil.

Back in 1998, Mobil filed suit against Castrol for falsely advertising Syntec oil as synthetic, when in fact it contained a highly hydroprocessed mineral (Dino) oil instead of a chemically synthesized basestock. Due to the amount that the mineral oil had been chemically changed, the judge decided that Mobil lost that suit. As a result (except in Germany), any oil containing this highly hydroprocessed mineral (Dino) oil (currently called Group III basestock by the American Petroleum Institute) can market themselves as a synthetic oil. Since the original synthetic basestock (polyalphaolefin or PAO) costs approximately 3 times as much as the Group III basestock, most of the oil blenders switched to the Group III basestock, which significantly increased their profit margins (the price of synthetic oils didn't drop, as I recall, to accommodate this cheaper basestock, which makes up >70% of a bottle of oil). In Europe, blenders still need to use some PAO in order to meet the toughest ACEA specs. In the US, Mobil 1, Amsoil, Red Line and Royal Purple are the only ones I am SURE OF still using PAO. If you can get a material safety data sheet (MSDS) for the oil you are interested in, look for PAO or polymer or oligomer of 1-decene as a component for a tip-off. Synthetic blends contain some amount (not defined, as far as I know) of synthetic basestock. The small amount of viscosity modifier present in most multi-grade oils probably fulfils this requirement, making synthetic blends another profit centre for the oil blenders.

 

Real synthetic???

http://www.caranddriver.com/article....rticle_id=3631

Joe