I have the 6 disc mp3 cd player with the stock 4 speaker set up in my sxt awd anyone have any suggestions on replacement speakers for louder better sound while still keeping the stock head unit?

 

Here's a link to a thread I started last summer on the SXT stereo. https://dodgeforum.com/m_77726/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm
I installed a full after market setup. If your going to keep the factory head unit, you would need a amp to get anywhere close to powering good aftermarket speakers. The factory head unit is only 15 watts each channel. A sub wouldn't hurt. What speakers are you looking at? Redhouse

 

Basically ANY speaker will sound better. You can see the sound equipment that I have in my signature. Also a link is there for pics(and in the gallery here). One thing is that you have to pop off the plastic "rivets" that attach the bottom of the door. The easiest way is to push the center of the rivet into the door and then pull the outer part out. Don't forget to get the center pins out of the door. I looks like I could have used them, but since there are only 3 per door and run $0.66 per rivet, I just went with new ones. Since you have the 4 speaker system, you should have 6.5" in the front doors. I would stay away from 3-ways in the rear beacause there is no sealed area for any base to be generated. IMO the 3-ways sound too thin and tinny. I was originally to try to do a all sony install but for subs, I don't care for the Sonys. I went with my old Alpine buddies in the bottom end. Adding speakers to the stock head will give you a lil bit better sound, but as said before, the stocker is so low power that you will not be satisified unless you amp them. There are a couple of ways to do this; get an amp with "Speaker Level" inputs and run wires from the speakers to the amp or get an "Line Level Converter" that changes speaker to RCA outs. If you use the converter then there are 2 options there; get a 4 speaker converter and run 2 pair of RCA lines (front & Rear) to the amp or get a 2 speaker converter and then "Y" off the connection to the amp. Some amps may have a switch to Y it for you. They drawback to this system is loss of front/rear fader. I havent heard an amp with speakers straight in on the upper sound spectrum, they are good for entry level bass systems. Well I hope this has helped.

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Thanks Very much for the info guys,currently im looking at the


Infinity Kappa 63.5i 6-1/2" 3-way Speakers for speakes,, any suggestions on a amp for these?

 

I am an alpine amp fan, used them for over 20 years, so I am biased. Years ago I had an install that was 6 Alpine amps with MB Quart high speaker and Kicker Subs. Spent a nice penny on the setup. A friend had the same truck but could not afford the $$$. We did the Walmart/Kmart Jensen and Audiovox copy. It sounded pretty good. My system was a winner in the SQ(sound quality) comps. His was a lil rougher. I think that any stereo shop brand would be pretty good. One thing that you might want to look for is High pass filter built into the amp for the door/rear speakers. This way you can protect you investment. I would set them for 100hz and up. This way the speakers wont be trying to hit the low bass. And then If you get a sub setup I would set up the low pass to 125hz and down. Right now I am using the head unit's amp to drive the door/rear speakers with a "bass-blocker". Its nothing more than a non polorized capicator. If you go online and look for "passive crossovers" you can find sites with either a freq calculator or actual cap values. Then you can go to radio shack and pick them up. They install by cutting the positive lead and putting them inline. They say that it don't matter which lead, I just have done it this way for ever and its hard to teach this old dog new tricks. The electronic crossovers (high pass/low pass or sometimes selectible) are the better choice. The passive (capacitors and inductors) rob the system of abit of power.

As for the issue of power recommendations this is often debated. IMO I get an amp that is about 10% over the RMS rating of the speakers. My thought on this is that when an amp is at its high end of output, it starts to clip and this is what destroys speakers. You just have to rememeber not to go full throttle on the volume. I have see very good and expensive speakers blow the tweeters because they were under powered and clipped like hell when the dipstick wanted to hear it loud.

Well I hope this long-winded post helps ya out.

 

replace the stock speakers with your favorite flavor. Those are actually 6X9s in your door so two pair of your fgavs will do fine.
I ended up going with 5 1/4 boston pros in the doors and boston pro 6X9s in the back as well as a rockford fosgate 12" sub fed by it's own amp.
Sounds great.
Simply replacing your stock speakers will do wonders.

 

356Magnum, i always thought that amp-speaker power ratio should be the other way around. i'm not an (by far) an expert here, but been told that in order to avoid sound distortion your speakers shoud be waaay bigger than amp. what is exactly that 'clipping' thing you've mentioned and why does it damage selectively tweeter? i'm thinking about putting some 'umpf' in my car - i don't wanna blow right away. thanks
greg

 

Here is a very good expaination of the clipping http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t20

in short

The amp will try to meet the power demand placed upon it, but it cannot exceed its design capabilities. This in turn, produces the deadly "square wave" output to the speaker. The speaker sees this severely clipped signal as something similar to DC current. Speakers cannot deal well with DC inputs. The cone goes in or out and stays there. No motivation to cool the voice coil and sooner or later, the speaker will fail.

Use amps that closely match or modestly exceed the power rating of the speaker. A 100 watt speaker will love getting 125 watts of "clean power" vs a 100 watt speaker getting 25 watts of badly clipped (distorted) power.

A clean signal on an O'scope looks line a ~ but clipping looks like
. __
_| |_ sorry the graphics are lousy but I think you get the idea.

 

The 6 speaker (Boston) speaker system uses 6X9's all the way around. The 4 speaker system uses 6 1/2" on the doors. You should be able to go to the dealer and get the 6X9 door adapter the 6 speaker systems use if you want to keep it all the same.

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Hey, thanks.
That stands to reason, all right.
bad part seems to be that there is no safe setup - you can blow your speakers in eather case.
g.