Can someone tell me where the trailer towing wire connector is located? i.e. the connector you would attach the wiring kit to.

 

If you didn't order and install the harness then it isn't there. The trailer towing package is suspension and trans cooling only. The hitch and harness are separate. I would assume since you are looking for the connector you had the hitch installed? BTW the harness requires some holes to be drilled in the body - it does plug into the other wiring though.

 

I installed a Reese hitch myself, took 1½ hours. The power module from Reese is on order which includes all the generic wiring. So now I am looking for the easiest access to the light wiring. If anyone has done this before or has the instructions from the DC kit that would help.
Where is the plug that you mentioned located?

 

On the factory hitch there is a bracket that accepts an ovoid plug, this is where you plug in the trailer. you can either make a trailer harness, buy one from DCX or use whatever the trailer already has. I however got a body harness with the round style plug - guess I'll have to find the right bracket for that. Either way the harness first goes thru a hole you drill in the spare tire pan then goes to the passenger side rear tailight assembly thru a hole you drill there. Then it plugs in there. And along the way it gets power from the battery.

 

If you have the tow package (don't know if it's there on the non tow package vehicles) the plug for the trailer wiring harness is behind the right tail light. Pull the two big plastic pins, remove (by pulling back) the light and have a look. Should take all of about two minutes to check. Let us know, especially if you DON'T have the tow package.

 

I will be putting in the flat 4 connector as I only plan to tow a utility trailer. The wiring will be totally inside the hatch area and made long enough so it can reach the trailer and then close the hatch on top of the wiring. This way the connector stays out of the weather when not in use.
I will have a look in the right tail light today, thanks.

 

I pulled the right tail light housing and there's no trailer connector visible. I don't have the tow package. In addition to pulling the 2 pins you also have to remove the louvered grill on the inside. Behind the louvered grill there is a wing nut that has to be removed. If your wrist is not the size of a 5 year old with a universal joint they also made the top of the wingnut to fit a 7/16 wrench.

 

cavu,
That's good to know about the wing nut. Apparently when the dealer installed my hitch and harness he didn't put it back on. I thought they were all like mine....no wing nut.

 

He probably dropped it down into that cavity, it's not easy to reach into that small space. The wing nut is behind the insulation that is cut out so that it opens like a door.
The power module from Reese is suppose to arrive tomorrow so we will see how easy this turns out.

 

Update on DIY trailer wiring.

Parts: Reese 85265 Power Module Reg. Duty Module w/Circuit Protector about $30 in the US, $52 Cdn at CTC (DC Canada $135 for wiring kit)

-Reese suggests the module should go in the left tail light, but if you do it the way I have the module can be mounted out of the way on the rear side of the battery case.

-Remove the right taillight by pulling the 2 plastic pins on the left side of the light
-Remove the small grill on the inside of the vehicle behind the light
-pull away the insulation and remove the black plastic wing nut, it will accept a 7/16 wrench on the top
(removing the taillight is not really necessary if you are sure you have located the correct wiring harness)
-remove the 4 screws holding the rear 2.5 foot plastic panel, the one that covers the hatch latch area
-trace the wire harness from the light back toward the battery, it comes through a small opening in the fender into the battery area
-remove 4" of tape covering the wire as it leaves the small opening in the fender
-there should be 5 wires
-hold a straight pin with pliers and push it through the insulation of each wire so that it goes through the middle of the wire
-using a circuit tester or voltmeter determine what each wire does and follow the remainder of instructions supplied with the unit
-one wire is not used, backup lights
-the wire can be left coiled up in the battery area and pulled out as necessary. Shutting the hatch on the wire does not seem to cause any damage.
-total time 1½ hours