Hello everyone, thought maybe some of you might have some suggestions on my newest issue. I have an 05 Magnum running 2 JL Audio 10w7 drivers. 2 JL Audio 500/1 amps and 1 JL Audio 300/4 amp. I have upgraded the ground to 0-gauge wire and use the best quality wiring throughout the system. I run a 6.5v Pioneer Premier head unit. I started to have a BAD dimming issue so I took it to have the batteries and alt checked; there were no problems with either. I added a second deep cycle battery (0 gauge wiring as well) and still have really bad draw even when the system is not hitting hard. I have had everything metered and all looks good, so what is the problem?? Any suggestions? I have used this same stereo set up in my Durango and never had this issue. I have even sent my amps back to JL to have them checked by the factory.

Last week, just for grins I took shut down all the amps but 1 500/1 and only ran one sub, still getting horrible draw, to the point it is hard to drive at night with the headlights flickering.

Any input would be great, I have had several show cars and NEVER had this issue in the past.

Thanks!!

(Posted in another forum as well)

 

Have you installed a capacitor? If you run your power to your amps through a cap, 2 amps = 2 caps that should clear up any issues of a signifigant draw. Adding an auxillary battery might not fix this type of problem; dimming is caused by a draw which your alternator cannot provide enough amps for all running accecories.

 

I agree. Adding a Capacitor should clear up the poblem. I have a one Farad capacitor and I run two Audiobahn 12" Flame Q's.

 

What about checking your factory grounds, maybe with all that thumpin something worked loose?

 

You hit the nail on the head. The best solution would be a bigger alternator. Whats the total RMS watts of your system? At what point of the install did the lights start flickering? From what I understand dual batteries only help when the engine is not running, they even put on more of a load. Charging 2 batteries instead of one. Now for db dragrace class that requires the engine to be off, like street A it would help getting a longer lasting reading. Right now I am being torn between replacing the battery with a deepcycle for comp and a cap for the slight headlight dimming I have. Cant afford to do both right now. I wil probably go with the cap, I compete maybe 5 times a year but drive more at night ahha.

Here is a chart of watts vs draw, basically 16 ampere for every 100w.
Current Draw by Power
Total RMS
Power (watts) - Current Amps
100 - 16
200 - 32
400 - 64
600 -96
800 - 128
1000 - 160
1200 - 172
1400 - 188

This will decide how big of a cap you need.

 

Thanks for all the input. I do not have a cap yet, I have never used one to be honest with you. I have been looking around and found a nice cap (3f) that I will try to pick up this week. It sounds as if my grounding is good, I will post some pics of the install later today so maybe you can take a look over it for suggestions. Also I contacted dodge and they are telling me that my car has a 140 alternator, hard to believe that I am getting this much draw if this is the case.

Thaks again, will post pics soon.

 

Here is a picture of my amp rack so far (top view) so you can see where eveything is. Maybe this will help.

[IMG]local://upfiles/24454/09BC1899658244BCB6BCA31CF619AB55.jpg[/IMG]

 

And this is a picture of the underside of the hinged rack to see how all is tied together.

Thanks again for any suggestions!

[IMG]local://upfiles/24454/7650C6A7BF944A2FA61807EF0016BCA8.jpg[/IMG]