OK, let me see if I can clarify some things here. This type of clockspring (the hall-effect type with a steering control module) has NO recalls that i'm aware of. The only time you'll ever have a BIG problem with them is when some doofus doesn't know how to diagnose and repair the system. The clockspring recalls recalls from the past were a completely different type. Old school technology.. if you will. I can tell you from repairing MANY of these that most of the time the issue is small to start out with but when some weiner-head tries to repair it, they bend the tiny tiny pins inside the assembly.

Let me search for a pic and I can show you guys what is involved.

 

From what I've been able to glean from your posts, you are Canadian (or bought the car in Canada) or both. Good luck, at least you got a claim number. I don't recall what year your magnum is, mine is way out of warranty. If you can afford a new car, your one solace is that the Magnums always rank high on trade-in value and buyer demand. Good luck - I'm stuck with mine for a while whether I can get this ABS/EPS/BAS light + Cruise +fuel gauge + FM radio reception situation fixed or not.

 

A FB buddy who is a Ford master mechanic got me some info from a tech site he has access to. None of these address the gas gauge being intermittent (in my case) and we suspect the cruise control is affected because of a potential linked ABS problem - my FM radio reception is bound to be a break or disconnect somewhere in the wiring between the radio and rear window (big detective job). Some of this may help those of us with these problems. I thought I'd share.

FYI (may have mentioned this in another reply) I have done the steering wheel rotation, the odometer on/ACC (the key dance) and have examined the fuses for blow-outs (none found). I have not disconnected the negative battery cables (I have front/rear bateries) and won't unless instructed to by our resident TECH - to whom we all owe a lot of thanks for his time and trouble.

Dodge Magnum 2005-2010

Several MIL reports were listed, all car-specific and require a scan. But some of the following may be useful to others on this thread. I know I'm going to check my alignment. I will also have the sensor connections on all four wheels checked during a tire rotation in case of dirt/disconnect.

Concern: ABS/ESP/BAS light is on.
Cause: First thing to check for is an alignment problem. Test drive the vehicle and check if the steering wheel is straight when the vehicle is going straight.
Resolution: If steering wheel is turned left or right while driving straight, the vehicle needs an alignment. Perform an alignment then test drive. The warning light should turn off.
Details: The stability control computer measures steering angle and degrees per second of steering wheel rotation. When it sees steering angle greater than or less than -0-, but the yaw sensor is not sensing a turn, a rationality fault is set and the ABS/ESP/BAS light will be on.

Concern: Instrument panel gauges are inoperative at times. The ESP/BAS warning light is on. DTC B2107 may be active.
Cause: The ignition switch is failing.
Resolution: Replace the ignition switch (electrical portion) to correct.
Details: Revised part was available.

Though I haven't seen a problem with upshifting, I'm including this one just in case:

Concern: Transmission would not shift out of first gear. ABS, ESP, BAS warning lights illuminated on instrument cluster.
Cause: The ABS computer had failed.
Resolution: On this particular vehicle, it was necessary to replace the ICU (integrated control unit) located next to the washer fluid bottle underhood. The ICU is the ABS computer and the HCU (hydraulic control unit). The parts were not available separately in this case.
Details: The ABS computer connector was tested for power, ground, and Can Bus signals. Wheel speed signals go directly to the ABS computer and this information is bussed to the PCM (engine/transmission computer). The loss of wheel speed signals to the PCM caused the transmission to not shift. This vehicle was a flood car that the customer purchased at an auction.

*May have spoken too soon about upshifting. Taking off from a light (at reasonable speed) yesterday, "thunk" and car downshifted, then "thunk" and popped back into drive-4. Indicator didn't show any difference - hasn't happened since.

 

During an oil change, I had a chance to examine the undercarriage with a mechanic who pointed out yellow paint on the front rack - a sure sign that it's been whacked. As low-slung as the Maggies are, I know I've whacked it a few times and am on my third protector (the big cardboard piece under the radiator and engine).

He also pointed out that the right boot was leaking steering fluid and said the tie rod was bent. Not only would this explain the lights, but a dead sensor also contributes and will disable the cruise control.

RX: New Rack & Pinion, new sensor - about $1,100. It also needs new tires and a tune-up. The gas gauge, FM antenna/reception problem will have to be examined as will a passenger seat motor (front-to-rear motion). It also needs four new struts for the hatch and hood. Add a detail and it'll be like new probably for around $2,500.

On first take that sounds like a lot of money for a car with 70,000 miles. But it's six years old and will probably be my last car. I'd much rather pay a big hit like that once every five years and little hits as they occur - and still have a car that I really like - than to be making the $500-$600/monthly payments.

So, for the rest of you who've have chimed in on this problem, thanks! And for those still hoping a fuse will fix all your problems, maybe you should ask them to put it on a rack next time you get your oil changed. I will get a second opinion, and I might get the cost down, but in the long run, I think the diagnosis is probably pretty close to right.

I sure wish it as just a 10-cent fuse! Thanks to TNech for his patience and advice.

 

PS: To the above, add another $450 - maybe. Had to tow it out of the tire bay at Costco yesterday. Shifter locked up. The dealer had two Maggies same day-same problem. Finally got it back today with advice to contact customer care at Chrysler. The owner of the other Maggie did that and Chrysler picked up all but a $50 co-pay. Wish me luck and Merry Christmas folks. Give yourself an alignment and wheel sensor for Christmas. If you can afford tires, Costco rotates between coupon deals month-to-month. After pricing around, I chose the Bridgestone Turenza Serenity. Costco has the best deal by far and the savings on just the tires easily pays for the membership and more. January will be a Michelin model at more money and equal quality (or so I've been told).

 

just put an inner & outer TRE on an 06 magnum. got an ESP follwed by the BAS. got an alignment- took a couple drive cycles to calibrate and turn out, but they did. will update if anything happens down the road

 

One of the thngs from the post above yours fixed mine as well. New tires, new rack/pinions & tie rods and alignment. Sometimes those lights are out for a reason ;<)

 

If you drive it with the steering wheel too much off center it will set a code for "PS Angle Sensor Not Initialized". That's what turned on your ESP light. It will clear itself and shouldn't come back if it's aligned right.

 

ok i know this page is pretty old but my abs and esp and bas have came on, i figured i need new brakes so i replaced all four and the lights have stayed on. i been reading all the stuff everybody has put on here. but nobody has said anything on the car getting fixed... please help

 

Because Every one has different problems. There are tons of things that can cause that light to stay on. Wheel speed sensor, Dynamic sensor, bad Computer, Steering angle sensor, extremely mess up alignment, or even engine problem. I've seen a stuck PCV valve cause the BAS/ESP light to come on, not something you would expect.
I believe even Transmission problem could cause ESP to shut off.
The easiest and most accurate diagnose is go to a shop with enhanced equipment(scanner) to pull the Code off the ABS module. Other wise you will spend way more time and money trying to guess the problem than paying a small fees to pull the code.

Things you can do yourself is Check all fuse. If they are all good, try Calibrate the Steering angle sensor by turning steering wheel lock to lock like 5 times. Other wise, you will need to hit a shop with scanner.

most of the time mechanical Brake problem will not cause ESP/BAS light to come on. unless you got something really mess up like a leaking brake line.