You do not need the relay. In fact, in my opinion steer clear of the relay. Especially when it's under the hood.

Here is a pretty straight foward fog-light wiring diagram. No relays required.



If you want a harness that'll handle quite a bit of power, lemme know. I can make one for you.

 

Okay Squee you have further demonstrated why I'm not going to attmept anything. Your diagram makes sense, but I don't know what to do. Which is why I'm not going to do anything. LOL.

 

It's real simple. You can do this. Trust me.

Basically, what you do is take your fogs, and if they came with a harness and the harness has a relay, remove it or just totally discard the harness.

Then what you do is, get yourself some 14 guage wire in BLACK and RED. Firgure out where you want the lights on the bumper and then using your arms (easiest way to do it) measure the distance between the lights, I usually do this while holding both spools of wire in one hand then with the other pull the wire out. Once you do that you have the front section done.

Then when you do that, again, holding the spools in one hand and with the other pull them out and count roughly 8', (front of the bumper to the dashboard). I usually count 8' just so I have extra in case I want to move the switch or relocate the lights). Once all the measurements are done, you need to splice the wire coming from the dashboard to the wires that are between the lights. For this I usually use solder and shrink tubing. Now, heres where it gets fun. You'll have 2 choices of switch. Either one with a light on it (Which IMO I wouldn't use) or one without.

For this How-To I'll explain the one without the light. Take the red wire from the lights to the dash and hook it up to the POWER lead on the switch. Take the BLACK wire and either run it to a ground somewhere int eh engine bay or hook it up to the NEGATIVE battery terminal.

Then from the Accessory lead on the switch take another length of red wire and run it from the switch to the battery (Make sure you put at least a 20amp fuse between the battery and the switch). And you are done.

However, if you really are scared to do it yourself I'll make you a new harness this weekend so all you'll have to do is hook it up to the lights for $40. It'll be ready to be shipped tomorrow. It'll be able to handle whatever bulbs your lights came with. Unless you want a harness that can handle around 1200 volts, 600 amps, and is oil, coolant, acid, gas, heat and cut proof. Instead of the rubber sheathing it'll have a hard plastic sheath, it's a little more difficult to work with when installing but you can run some insane bulbs with it. I usually price these out by application, how long they take to make; they are rather time consuming since they are made from either 10 or 12 guage rigid wire and require a bit more presision (sp?), and parts also since it's a tougher wire it usually uses different connectors.

 

Well thanks for writing all that out for me, I might be able to do it now. However the exhaust should be arriving at my door tomorrow so I'll be so excited to tear the stock one off. The exhaust is something I know I can do. At any rate, I'll take a look. Thanks again for the write up Squee.

 

No problem. Good luck with it.

 

If you don't use a relay you will burn out switches all the time trust me I have been there thats why I now use a relay. Plus he also wants them to only be able to come on when he has the parking lights on which if you don't use a realy you will burn your headlight switch out. If you do the way Crazy Squee shows you will have to make sure that you shut them off everytime you get out of the car cause they are hooked straight to the battery. That relay is weather proof it will hold up just fine no problems what so ever.

 

Umm...you'll burn up switches if you use the incorrect switch. Usually the switches that burn up are the ones with the light on them. I don't use them. And the relay that comes with those lights is not water/weather proof.

And again, when I had my Hella's they came with a relay, the relay was weatherproof and well, it saw more water on the inside of it than anything I've seen. Also, when I used the harness that came with the lights I burned up more fuises, relays, and wire than I could care to remember. Do you know what it's like driving to PA in the middle of January at 11pm and all of a sudden every light in your car goes out including the head lights and then directly after the fact you smell fire and when you pull off the side of the road you see flames and smoke when you pop the hood coming from the supposed great relay and wiring harness that came with your fog lights. IMO the harnesses that the fog lights come with a crap as are the relays. And I've heard more horror stories from people who thought the same thing you do about the relays and such that come with the lights you buy. And their horror stories are what prompted me to build bullet-proof harnesses.

Also, I've been running my lights that way for years, over 5 of them to be exact. I've never had an issue with them hooked up like that. Nor ahve I ever heard of anyone having issues like that. If you noticed, there is a fuse in line with the battery. If you look at every other system in your car they are all hooked directly to your battery. Take out the PDC and you'll notice a red wire running from it to your battery. Directly. You'll also notice that inside the PDC is a whole mess of fuses. Same exact setup as what I make only I don't have a fancy plastic box to put them in.

And you should be shutting off your lights everytime you get out of the car anyway. So, the setup I make is again, no different than your headlights. With the exception that the fog/driving lights atre on their own dedicated circuit.

Oh and another thing. I was an electrician for quite a number of years so, when I build harnesses and design these things, I know exactly what works well and what doesn't. When you go from working on 120/220/240/440+ volts to a 12V and a 24V (Fire alarm) system you know EXACTLY what you can and can't do.

Anyway, good luck with that. Hope things work out.

 

He is rewireing his factory foglights not installing aftermarket lights. That relay that I gave the part number for is weather proof trust me its used on everything from lawnmowers, tractors, cars, and boats. It will stand the weather just fine. And on a side note most state require that any switch that controls exterior lights have a built in light (or AUX. light) that tells you when the lights are on. Your setup will work fine but it also a lot nicer to have them hooked in to the parking lights so when your parking lights are off your foglights are off or he can just leave the switch in the on position and then anytime his other lights are on his fogs will be on. The fogs are still on a totally seperate circuit the only thing that wire that taps into the parking light wire does is turn the relay which takes little power at all so it doesn't add any strain.

 

I've never heard that law before.

 

Your state might not require it but I know for a fact wisconsin does. Got nailed for it myself.