RPM range
Cam 10: Idle to 6500 rpm
Cam 12: 1500 to 6800 rpm

Is there any way I can get the cam 12 and drop the rpm range down to make it Idle to 6500 rpm? The main reason I want my car to start from idle is because I don't want to replace my timing belt as often as I would have to with getting the cam 12 and leaving it; I also want my car to last longer (Plus I wouldn't want to take my car to 6800 rpm anyway). Is it worth it or should I get the cam 10. I heard the AEM Adjustable Cam Gears are made so you can adjust the rpm levels (I don't have a clue how that works). Another reason I don't really want the cam 10 is because you all said it's close to stock (very little improvement). Plus the cam 12 is more agressive.

How is the cam 12 considered more agressive? Is it because the rpm range is higher (like I just listed) or will it give you more hp no matter what (even if the rpm range was the same as the cam 10)?

Is what I'm asking even worth it (as far as extending the life and still having the same hp improvement as the cam 12 normally comes with)?

 

You can run the 12 without too much problems witht the timing belt, you might need to replace it every 50-60,000

 

Why don't you try the #14? I talked to the guys at Howell today, they said you'll get the rough idle but it's completely streetable.It shouldn't mess w/ your timing belt at all if my memory serves. The AEM camgear lets you retarrd or advance your timing, providing more low end or high respectivley.

 

The RPM that a motor runs in can be adjusted a little by advancing or retarding the cam but the RPM ranges given are and idea where it likes to breathe due to the lobe spacing, lift, and ramp profiles. 300 over stock is not that bad. It is not like going to 7500 or 8000.

 

Thanks Casper but, I already know that.

The cam 14 requires all the major mods, like increased compression pistons, Race header w/equal length long primary tubes, aftermarket ECM, Race-prepped cylinder head porting. I don't really want a race header b/c I already have my exhaust on my car. Plus if I would want to switch exhaust, I would switch from my Pacesetter to the Borla systems.
I do believe the cam 14 is going to reduce the timing b.'s life. That might be too much for me anyway (RPM range: 2,500 - 7,500).

 

All those mods are not required, but you will benifit from them. You can run a #14 in a stock motor, you won't gain much hp, but as you add mods it will be more effective. I believe that they say to replace your belt every 50,000 - 60,000 miles, that is very early because they don't want it to break. I bought my car with 135,000 miles on it and the timing belt broke just after I got the car. The dealer that I got my car from said that it was the original belt and that he does not know why his mechanic did not replace it before the car was sold. Thanks for the head and valve job guys, LOL. So they do last much longer than 50-60. On top of that its not that hard of a job to replace the belt. What are you looing for out of your car? If you are just looking for a little extra power and a nice tuned sound then go with the #12, but if you are planning any serious mods, I would recomend the #14.

 

This is what Modern Performance says:
Radical Street/Drag Race profile. NEEDS all the major mods, like increased compression pistons, Race header w/equal length long primary tubes, aftermarket ECM, Race-prepped cylinder head porting.
RPM range: 2,500 - 7,500

I bet it wont be good for your engine if u run it without these extra mods though.[&:]

As far as replacing the t. belt, I thought it would be a hard job. Don't u have to raise the engine to get to it? After that I thought u would have to take things off of your engine to get to it.

 

You have to lift the engine to get the cam on anyway.