97 Neon won't start
Hi, Mine is a 97 Dodge Neon with about 100k miles. For the last few days I noticed that while running - the car gives a sudden jerk (happened maybe once a week). One day the engine stopped while I was on the road but when I started back - it started right away.
Last night the engine stopped once again but this time it didn't start back. When I turn on the key - it kranks but nothing happens.
I changed the spark plugs last week. Didn't change spark cables or the coil pack as those looked ok. The battery is less than 2 yrs old and tested fine.
I've got a few suggestions. Those are:
1. To change spark plug cables and coil pack
2. There might be problem with the fuel pump
3. Timing belt might need to be changed (even though there's no visible damage)
It would have been the easiest to take it to the mechanic but I'm completely broke now and would prefer to fix the problem by myself if possible. Please help !!!!
Last night the engine stopped once again but this time it didn't start back. When I turn on the key - it kranks but nothing happens.
I changed the spark plugs last week. Didn't change spark cables or the coil pack as those looked ok. The battery is less than 2 yrs old and tested fine.
I've got a few suggestions. Those are:
1. To change spark plug cables and coil pack
2. There might be problem with the fuel pump
3. Timing belt might need to be changed (even though there's no visible damage)
It would have been the easiest to take it to the mechanic but I'm completely broke now and would prefer to fix the problem by myself if possible. Please help !!!!
try pulling a plug, connect it to the wire and ground it to the motor, then have someone turn the car over, if it works then your coilpack is good. 2 things don't hold the spark plug when you do it, funny feeling. 2nd its a split coil pack, so check 2 wires one from each side. also while the plug is out turn it over a few times see if you smell gas, if so you have fuel. if all that turns out good I would check the PCM. turn the key on, off, on, off, on, count the flashes of your check engine light and see what codes it throws.
Thanks for your reply. My wife called upon a mechanic who said timing belt has to be changed and he will do it for a low low price of $600. [:@] I'm thinking he is trying to rip me off. If the timing belt is gone - atleast the car would start... right?
ORIGINAL: rs97ap
..... a mechanic who said timing belt has to be changed and he will do it for a low low price of $600. [:@] I'm thinking he is trying to rip me off. If the timing belt is gone - atleast the car would start... right?
..... a mechanic who said timing belt has to be changed and he will do it for a low low price of $600. [:@] I'm thinking he is trying to rip me off. If the timing belt is gone - atleast the car would start... right?
First check for spark and pull the PCM code as casper suggested. The PCM should be trapping codes if the timing belt has slipped.
If there is no spark, it still may not be the coil pack. Should also rule out a problem with the crank position sensor (or possibly cam position sensor).
On the otherhand if you really did toss the belt under power, you will have been lucky if you can get the interference engine put back together for only $600. But from what you have said, it really doesn't sound like this is what happened.
What codes are you throwing?
And I have a sneaking suspicion it is your timing belt as well. If that's the case. Dpending on how fast you were going when it lurched and shut off you may also need some engine work. And depending on how bad it can get pricey.
And I have a sneaking suspicion it is your timing belt as well. If that's the case. Dpending on how fast you were going when it lurched and shut off you may also need some engine work. And depending on how bad it can get pricey.
Yeah, very possible that it's your timing belt. My old car, a 94 Mercury Tracer, I was driving along with and had the timing belt go out on me while I was driving. I had about 130,000 miles on it though. It was just a sudden loss of power. I thought I had a flat tire or something I was trying to accelerate but it wasn't going. So I pulled over and shut it off and took a look, nope, tires were fine. Went to try and start it, all it would do is crank. Tried jumping it, don't ask me why i did that (it was cranking on its own), it obviously was never going to start because it turns out that the timing belt came off it. Luckily I was within 2 miles of my house. I towed it to a shop and they replaced the timing belt and it worked fine. Luckily the belt just came off and all I needed was a new belt.
Oh...and btw, prior to this happening I had noticed it was a little weaker than normal, my gas mileage was not as good as it usually was either. Off the topic a little, my tracer pwns my neon for gas mileage. My all time record for gas mileage in the Tracer is 395 with 10.5 gallons of gas. Although I can't rat on my neon for gas mileage too much, I drive it like a maniac and still get 30 mpg or more most the time.
Oh...and btw, prior to this happening I had noticed it was a little weaker than normal, my gas mileage was not as good as it usually was either. Off the topic a little, my tracer pwns my neon for gas mileage. My all time record for gas mileage in the Tracer is 395 with 10.5 gallons of gas. Although I can't rat on my neon for gas mileage too much, I drive it like a maniac and still get 30 mpg or more most the time.
You won't lose much by changing the belt anyway at this point since it's due at 105K .... and really should be done then. $600 seems little high for the belt only, not so bad if it includes a new waterpump, and probably low if there has been any valve/piston damage from a broken belt. The new waterpump is a very good idea, especially if you are still running the original.
The one thing your car was doing that does not sound like a typical belt failure was the cutting out and restarting normally prior to the last time it died. This is more common to an ignition or fuel related intermittent. You will get more accurated inputs from this forum as to the real cause if you can pull and post any trouble codes stored in the computer.
My skepticism of the mechanics' estimate is from the impression that he had not actually inspected the car and yet provided a single number rather than a range for a timing belt repair on an interference engine. If he confirmed the belt was broken in person and ruled out collateral damage by compression or scope on the cylinders, then I withdraw my reservations. So.... did he even look at the car?
The one thing your car was doing that does not sound like a typical belt failure was the cutting out and restarting normally prior to the last time it died. This is more common to an ignition or fuel related intermittent. You will get more accurated inputs from this forum as to the real cause if you can pull and post any trouble codes stored in the computer.
My skepticism of the mechanics' estimate is from the impression that he had not actually inspected the car and yet provided a single number rather than a range for a timing belt repair on an interference engine. If he confirmed the belt was broken in person and ruled out collateral damage by compression or scope on the cylinders, then I withdraw my reservations. So.... did he even look at the car?
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Spark plugs are fine and so is the coil pack. Looks like it's the fuel pump - as when I pull the plug and try to start - I don't smell gas. Also, as I'm running 165K kms and haven't changed the timing belt - I will change that also.
Thanks all for all the suggestions...
Thanks all for all the suggestions...



