I was debating the same thing, then I started pricing guages. Manual fuel pressure guage reasonable, electronic like $250 ( not so reasonable) . I think when I get em, manual will be the way I go.

 

I ended up using a nordskog setup in my car. I think it ended up being around $180 total for the sender and digital gauge. Not bad and, at least in the car when it's got you planted back in your seat and you're trying to keep it in a straight line, it's easy to glance at the digital gauge and get a number as opposed to looking a a needle trying to figure out where exactly it's at.

 

So I put the edge juice/attitude in my truck, but since I have a fass fuel system and larger fuel lines the fuel pressure guage setup they gave me won't work because my fuel line goes straight into the pump as opposed to using a banjo setup. Anyone know where I could get an adapter of some sort to T into the system?

 

You've by-passed / eliminated the factory fuel filter altogether?

Was that difficult to do? I'm getting ready to install a FASS hopefully in a week or so so I'm trying to learn as much as possible before doing so.

 

it's very easy to by-pass the OEM filter but ! in a newer truck, you'll loose your fuel heater which is a part of the filter housing. You can remotely locate a aftermarket heater though.

 

I don't want to loose my fuel heater, shouldI just continue to run the line to the filter housing only leave the filter out?

Is that where the fuel heater is in a 98?

 

it wouldn't hurt. That's what I did so, not only am I getting 2 micron filtration with the MK+II, I'm also getting 7 micron filtration through the OEM filter.

I don't know where it is in a '98. I don't think it's in the filter though ???

 

Oh, so you think I shoulduse BOTH the FASS filter and the stock filter?

I was asking if I shouldn't just remove the stock filter, but still run the fuel through the housing just in case the heater IS in there.