Ok, here are the pics ..

This is what that evaporator thing started to look like when i started adding the freon




This is what it looked like after a 15 minute drive



This is the highest I could gert the gauge to read




Any new ideas?

What doI need to do now ??

 

Mayfair, I'll get back to ya tomarrow, I wanna get a good look at the system before I give you any directions, I haven't messed with dodges a/c so I don't know the locations of everything. You were definatly able to get some refer to transfer by the looks of them lines. Have you tried running it yet?

 

The compressor is not cycling long enough to create the flow that would draw the can contents into the line.

Remove the harness that I have circled. Get a paperclip, or a small section of wire. This is the low freon cutout switch. If there's not enough freon, the switch will prevent the compressor clutch from being energized. You are probably seeing the compressor cycle on, cycle off, cycle on, etc...

The compressor will remainn on when you short out that wire harness. There are only two wires.

Listen to me buddy,....there won't be any big sparks, no flame, no fire, when you short that out.

Here's what you do, trust me on this.


1. Get a container that the freon can will fit into. Fill it with hot tap water. Don't boil anything,...lol, just as hot as it comes from the water tank.

2. Remove the low pressure fitting cap, have the can ready (shaken if needed), and the container of hot water. Bring a shop towel to. You should always wrap the rag around the fitting when you disconnect it in case you don't make a clean brake.lol.

3. Start the truck, put the AC on the normal setting....NOT THE MAX setting. Direct it towards the dash vents.

4. Now hook the freon can up and stick it in the water.

5. Short out the low press switch wiring, the compressor clutch will engage. CONSTANTLY.....so start squeezing that trigger and getting the freon in. You will see if the system is low, it will pull that can right down. Go half way through the can and release the trigger. Read the gauge. Add until you get the reading you want.

My advice is to go to the high side of the zone you want to be at, on the gauge.

When you get the pressure you want, pull the jumper wire out and plug it back onto the acc/dryer. The compressor should run properly now.

Check the interior vents and see if you have cold air back.

Here's another bit of advice. Run the system for 15-20 mins. Not idiling minutes but higher RPM minutes. Take a quick road trip. It spreads out the oil, the leak stop, etc. (That is if it doesn't clog YOUR orifice????)

That should get you where you want to be.

I will edit as I remember anything.


And hey..........WHO LOVES YA BABY????





[IMG]local://upfiles/12792/38CC7A61D27D45C8B16AA72477FEB70D.jpg[/IMG]

 

Yes, the AC is VERY cold when you first turn it on !! It'lll stay that way for a while too, but then it get's TOO cold so you turn it down. THAT'S when it starts to smell like an ice cube tray indide of the truck. Now that I've seen what it looks like under the hood, now I know WHY it smells like an ice cube tray huh ??



Demon ... I've read your response and as usual, I've got a couple of questions.

First of all, the low pressure line ... where you add the freon, I'm assuming is shown inyourpicture right above the second "B" in your word "baby". I hope so, because that's where I was trying to squeeze the freon into. I only question it because there wasn't any "cap" on it at all. The way you see it now is exactly how I found it. Do you think maybe the cap fell off? Could THAT be where the freon is leaking from because of the missing cap?

Secondly, if you look at that pic of the gauge that I posted, you'll see that it's almost at the25 mark. The directions say to get it into the 25 area. It isn't that far from it now, so I'm led to believe that it isn't going to take that much freon to fill it too that point. Would being just a tad low on freon give me the problems that I'm having, or will I be needing something else?

I'll follow your instructions to the tee. You haven't led me astray yet, so I trust ya. The directions say to have the AC on MAX, you say set it on low.Why the difference?

What's up with the hot water?

Wrap a rag around WHAT fitting,where I'm connecting the freon?

 

Ok, I was impatient, so I took your tips and I ran outside and I tried it. Unfortunately, I don't think it worked.

I did everything just as you described. I turned the AC to vents with the fan set at low but the gauge all the way in the blue. I put the freon in hot water, hooked it up, took the green wire off and jumped the two. It was tricky, but when you got it right you could hear the engine "tone down", so I guess that meant the compressor was kicking in. I squeezed the trigger and let it fly .... I think.

I felt like i had almost used one whole can ( sounded like only a little left ) so after not getting much of a change in the gauge i decided that I must have kicked it so I took it off. When I unscrewed it, it sounded like a little came out, but not much. I then screwed on the new can, shook it up, put it in the hot water, and tried eveything again.

The can felt like maybe it was emptying, but the gauge didn't really move. However when I took the jumper wire out the gauge went all the way up almost into the red zone !! When I put the jumper back in, it came back down again. When the can ( I thought ) felt kinda half empty, and the gauge was at the beginning end of where it should be, I decided to call it quits and take it for a spin.

I drove it down 95 for 15 or so minutes into the city with the air on the normal AC setting with the air comming out of the vents, but the fan turned onto high speed. It got COLD !!! Once I got to the city, I hopped off of 95, popped the hood, and to my happiness nothing was frozen.

WHOO-HOO !!

I hopped back onto 95 to go home, but this time I wanted to make sure that I had sealed all of the leaks, so I turned it to MAX - AC with the fan on high thinking that it would help move things around. Another 15 or so minutes, and I froze my AZZ off !! Before going home I decided to once again check under the hood. It was frozen again ...

I drove home with the AC turned on, but the temp gauge turned more towards the middle, not all the way into the blue like it was before. Once getting home I lifted the hood again and it was still frozen.

Now what ??

Maybe I didn't add enough? Did something wrong? Wrong line maybe? I dunno.

Looking again for guidance ...

 

Mayfair...

youre a brave soul!!!

the cap is supposed to cover that inlet valve where you connected the can.
the towel was suppoed to cover the valve in case the can didnt make a clean connection and freon spewed on everything...ewwww!!!

hope to hear that its better tomorrow!

"Once getting home I lifted the hood again and it was still frozen." kinda like that date with your first girl friend... [sm=lol.gif]

 

I have come into this thread late and am no expert on AC systems, but if you were low on freon, the air would get warmer, not colder.

It sounds like you have a bad sensor that is causing the compressor to stay on longer than it should, or cause it not tocut off at all.

Does your compressor cycle when the AC is running? or does it stay on all the time? You should be able to hear it click on, then off, then on, then off, etc.

 

Bob. . .I can see you thought process and how your useing the law of thremodynamics to explain what is going on. However if you are low on coolant, the gasses in the evaporator are actualy expanding tooo fast from a liquid to a gas casueing the system to in essence become more efficient. this effency level is what casues the condensation that is pulled out of the air to freeze on contact to the fins of the evap. A/C systems are just air driers, when the evap drops below ambient temp you pull the moisture out of the air,the airgets cold. Get things too cold and the moisture in the air will actualy sublime into a solid on the fins.

I hope that explination works. . .somewhat

 

Ok, here are some pics from last night.

This pic shows the higheset I was ever able to get the coolant gauge to go. They want it in the blue area. You can also see that I've installed the jumper wire and that the coolant is sitting in a cup of hot water



This is what the gauge did afterI removed the jumper wire. The gauge moves into the red WARNING area




Finally, this is where the gauge sat onceI plugged theevaporator back in. Pretty much the same as when I started.




I think I managed to pump about 1 and 1/2 cans of the stuff in there, but I'm not sure since the gauge never really moves much.
Now what ??

 

I cannot see any of the pictures at work since they are comeing from photo bucket (dang websence[:@])

anyway, I'm starting to wonder if your expansion valve may be sticking. that might jossle something loose in Demons head hopefully.