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  #11  
Old 08-06-2007, 03:09 PM
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out here, thinkin its NEC anyways, you must bond:

gas main, water main , and structure (if steel building) in 1 continuous unbroken line to the panel. this eliminates the static charge from the gas main as well. in this dwelling, afore, the gas main was 6ft away, and the water main is 100ft away..I was told with the gas so close, they could get away with a seperate bond to each.

as for ground rods...here in Maricopa county (AZ) we are required to drive 2 5/8" x 8' ground rods with a 6ft min seperation at the service section (commercial)or panel (residential). you must also bond the water , gas, and steel structure to the panel as well.

They do like to see a ufer bond (#4 solid tied to rebar for 25' in concrete foundation) connected to the panel along with the others.

with the arrid desert here, we have no BOND until it rains...

I will check the NEC..pretty sure most , if not all of that is in there...then of course each municipality can have its own more strict ordinances pertaining to construction installation...

 
  #12  
Old 08-06-2007, 04:01 PM
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that sounds about right. It's not a NEC code though to drive two rods. We had to do that in Fla ( which with all the sugar sands there isn't much different from the desert ) but, I don't in NC. They even let us drive the rods at a 45 degree angle here! USF did a study on ground rods where they drove 24 rods in a field and measure the ohms. It wasn't any better with 24 rods than with 2. I guess some counties figure two are better than one though.

It doesn't matter either whether a main disco is inside or out... all long as there is one. I think the rule changed to where you don't have to have a main disconnect outside as long as the MB panel is within 5ft of the meter outside. It used to be 10ft. Other wise, you have to have a main disco.

I saw some asked if Sharx inspected this. I know he didn't be is he an inspector ?... If so, I didn't know. I'm surprised we get along [sm=icon_rofl.gif]


 
  #13  
Old 08-06-2007, 09:53 PM
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Hey baja and triton you guys are electricians (sp) right. well heres teh deal we have a generator that we use to run most of the stuff in our house when power goes out. (once a month or more) we have been trying to get our well pump to run off the generator but can't figure it out. I think I have it figured out but not sure think If'n I take a few pics of it and say my plan can either of you guys tell me whether that's right or way off. They pump runs three wires (two hots and a ground) 240V 10gpm 1/2 horse well pump
 
  #14  
Old 08-06-2007, 10:00 PM
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sure watcha got ? what size gen is it ? What are the amps on the pump ?
 
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Old 08-06-2007, 10:15 PM
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Default RE: for you contractors and inspectors a like..

give us the specs...and pics...
 
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Old 08-06-2007, 10:47 PM
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yep yep i'll get em tommorrow I'll take a pic of the wires comin into the pump at the pressure switch and goin out but it's late and i gotsta work tommorow. we think we know what were doing but we just changed out the well pump and we don't really wanna have to do it again because we wired somehting wrong lol.
 
  #17  
Old 08-06-2007, 11:18 PM
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Ben

look at the metal label on the pump motor and give us those specs...

then the info for your gen.
 
  #18  
Old 08-06-2007, 11:44 PM
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[:'(] I just hate it when people do things wrong and stupid, have some common sense. Ive spent the last 2 years cleaning up all the wiring in this house and its still not done. There was even an entire circuit plugged into a light in the attic[:'(]
 
  #19  
Old 08-06-2007, 11:56 PM
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After Katrina a neighbor called me to see what was going on with their generator Because all of the lights in the house were unusually bright and the well pump was just humming. I had never seen a typical house bulb so bright, even inside the refrigerator looked like the sun had moved in. Anyway, the guy hooked up a hot to hot, hot to neutral.....suprisingly nothing burnt up in the house.
 
  #20  
Old 08-07-2007, 12:04 AM
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Default RE: for you contractors and inspectors a like..

ORIGINAL: triton

ORIGINAL: DBLR

I have never seen anyone attach the main ground wire from the service box to a natural gas pipe. All I can say to that is, Stupid is as Stupid does. Back in 1994 when I wanted to run power from the main box to a new sub service box for the addition to the house they told me I had to attach the sub panel ground wire one of two ways. I had to either put a bar in to the foundation footings before it was poured (also the ground bar had to be inspected and approved before the cement was poured) or drive a bar 12 feet in to the ground so that the sub box and house was grounded properly. Also I can’t believe someone used the Blue wire nut in the service box to extend the wire to the breaker because for some reason it was too short to reach the breaker.
A gas bond is required and should be a part of the service bond but, not how they did it. The code says... " unbroken " The codes may be different out west and it does typically change from county to county around here.

I'm assume these guys "got" their ground from the gas pipe ? Yeah, that's pretty bad !

The ground rods only come in 8ft lengths ( here anyway ) and you were right, it does need to be driven in and the only other option is horizonally in a ditch deeper than 2ft. I believe.
You are correct...and the gas bond and water bonds must be seperate, out here tho we usually run a uffer wire (a number 4) in the footing which you have to have 20 ft of cooper in the concrete.
 


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