Dangit, I had a post with the whole story, but I got an error message and it deleted it. I'll fill in the details later. On a pre long trip inspection I was checking my truck out, air filter, power steering fluid, brake fluid, oil (of course that was good it only had 20 miles on it) I pull the cap for the radiator and a few choice words come out. I had a greyish sludge in there. So long story short I had to leave my truck at my mom's house and fly down to training in Maxwell AFB for my 6 weeks of training, but on a positive note my truck isn't here and I don't have to fend off the car jackers with my breaker bar and hunting knife. I guess a few people have been shot right outside the gate, one was in a McDondalds drive thru and one was at a Walmart. People say if you have to stop at a red light near the gate at night that that is too long to be sitting still.

I did get to do a little diagnosis myself before I got on the plane. There is no water in the oil, the oil is leaking real slow, 1 very small drop every 10 seconds. I had the radiator empty for HVAC work less than 3k miles ago and the new turbo has 1.6k miles in the 2 weeks it has been in there. I've never had the turbo over 40 psi as I don't have my studs in yet. I was planning on putting those in this weekend and they are in the back seat of my truck right now. I just switched oil from Rotella T 15-40 to Rotella T 5-40 synthetic in preperation for the winter. I talked to my uncle who worked on semis for 20 years and my dad who worked on his semi back in the day and they suggested a few things like oil cooler, water pump seal, head, and cracked block. So what do you guys think? I doubt the cracked block because the motor still runs fine and the leak is so slow. Could the recent switch to the lower 5 synthetic have caused a seal to start leaking?

 

I would check for a 53 block. . .I doubt you would have one being an 02, but I would still check. second, I would check the water pump and make sure it is still good.

 

Where the heck are you that people are getting shot like that ???

 

I hear ya dude, my internet is gay and does the same thing all the time. If I type alot I always control "C" it before I press "ok" to send it .

 

I was having that same problem for the looooooooogest time, and then it just stopped happening.

 

I'm down in Montgomery Alabama. Sorry it took me so long to reply, the internet was broken from the day I wrote the initial post until today. Yea, I'll check for a 53 block when I get home. Is there an easy way to check to see if it is the water pump besides just putting in a new one?

 

So I was thinking I would order parts so I had everything I need show up when I get back, any suggestions on what I should order and where to order it from. Also is there any easy way to test if it is one system vs another?

 

on second thought, if it was the water pump you would have water comeing from it. if it was your oil cooler, you would have water in the engine oil. . .only other thing I can think of would be the initial sign of a head gasket that is on it's way out.

 

So where would be the best place to order a new head gasket? I've got the studs to put in so should I just put a new head gasket in and put those in and flush everything out and see what happens? What else should I do as long as I'm going to pull it apart?

How effective is a cam swap at making a turbo spool sooner and what kind of effects on economy would a different cam have?

 

well. . .Ive heard some good words about a Cometic head gasket. . .one guy is pushing 85-90# boost and no leaks. . .downside. . .$249.95 http://www.cometic.com

another option is to check out Performance Diesel Warehouse. apparently they have a marine 12v heagasket that will fit on your 24 valve $195

as far as the cam. . .that is up to you. . .alot of high HP guys run the F1 helix with pretty good results. . .you can chekc those out at PDW for $750