Hello all,

How do you verify if the actuator is failing on a 98.5 CTD? I don't see a code for that in the list for my vehicle, although I haven't pulled codes yet. I've blown off the "rubber" intercooler connection hose twice now, both in different spots, most recently today, while hauling a heavy load. As a FYI, the truck is basically stock as far as most things go. The only major upgrades are an ATS exhaust manifold, installed due to the standard cracking of the OEM, and a 5" turbo back exhaust system.

I had a power loss recently and diagnosed that the intercooler connector tube had popped off, on one edge, about 1/2" worth. I reattached it and clamped it down tight. The other connectors seemed tight. The truck ran like new. Then, the same thing happened today, but in a different spot, on another connection.

The only other noticeable oddity is that the stock blowoff valve now seems to flutter a bit after letting off under heavy boost, sort of like if you say "choo choo choo" rapidly, as if you mimic an old school train but making the consonant sounds under your breath, not out loud. I noticed this prior to the pop off, since fixing the first pop off. OK, I know everyone is now doing that sound and your significant other is probably looking at you a bit odd, but that is the best way that I can describe it. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

could it be the hose leaking air causing the waste gate actuator to fail? may just be stuck closed. seen this happen to a forklift years ago I'll have to think a while and get back to you.
try taking a small cresent wrench on the waste gate lever on the turbo see if you can move it. it sound like its frozen shut and giving you full boost all the time. do you have a boost gauge?????
that pop off valve your talking about is that something that is added to protect the engine for on road applications? the choo choo choo noise is that the pop off valve working???? Industrial engines that i work dont have anything but a waste gate and actuator. My engines you can put a 14mm wrench on the lever and actually move the waist gate I don't know if you can move it on these turbos with a wrench. You may have to take the actuator off and move it by hand.

 

Actually, I made a big assumption about a CTD having a blow off valve. While reattaching the connector, I didn't find a blowoff valve. I figured that it had to have one based on my knowledge of gasoline car turbo setups. You're right, I can't think of a piece of heavy equipment that has a BO valve either. However, they must vent pressure somehow once you let off the throttle, otherwise the built up pressure will just slam into the turbine. I guess that the noise is the wastegate. I just haven't built up an abundance of knowledge on the interplay between the operation of the turbocharger and the rest of the powertrain on diesel trucks.

I can move the actuator. It felt stiff, but I never messed with it before, so I have no point of reference. I was primarily concerned that the actuator was not operating properly and was building too much pressure, but it does move. I'd guess that it took about 30 lbs of pressure to open it. And, no boost gauge. Yes, I know, I need that and EGT gauges at a minimum. It is planned...

I don't think the connector is leaking. I believe that the connection just blew off for whatever reason. My gut impression is that if the turbo was building up huge boost, I'd hear it and feel it.

 

it moved thats good but can the actuator work if its that stiff??????
did it make any noise. Like rusted metal squeak and did it return buy itself or did you have to force it the other way?


question is your actuator controlled by electric from the computer or vac?
sorry I never looked at my turbo to see what makes it work and when i installed the exhaust a friend did the front of the exhaust i worked on the rear !!!!

 

It made no noise and retracted by itself. If my estimate of 30 lbs is correct, it would seem about right, as the stock system builds about 35 lbs of boost, right? Granted, it seemed stiff, but I was just using a few fingers to move it, so I guess it's in the realm of possibility for being correct. I guess... Man, I need a boost gauge right now! And, the actuator is controlled via vacuum.

I ran it today after reattaching the connector hose and clamping it down tight last night (at 11:30PM). It ran fine all day, towing my 38' flatbed with about 12K on it. I think that maybe I'm a bit hypersensitive about noises, etc considering my recent issues. I just don't know what to think. For peace of mind, I'm going to assume all is OK now, until I can do a thorough investigation.

I still want to know how you can definititely tell if your wastegate or actuator is failing on a 98.5 CTD, other than blowing the cylinder head off.

Also, I'd swear that the truck has a blowoff valve. It vents as soon as you let off the throttle, just like a BO valve on a turbo gasser. But, I don't see it. Anyone have an answer to this (probably) stupid question? Don't worry, I can take it.

I just can't see the wastegate acting as a BO valve. They are two different animals altogether. What am I missing? GD, I hate being uninformed...

 

I have had a few at work that went bad they never boosted wastegate is normally open vacuum closes it
had a turbo today was frozen solid impeller was stuck the wastegate was stuck nothing moved the seals was good didnt run off on my that was a 4bt though
SMOKED LIKE A FREIGHT TRAIN
thanks PIZZO

 

OK, I've run it a few times now with all connections verified tight and the truck seems fine overall. There is still the odd sound when letting off the throttle, as described above. Next step is to buy & install the boost gauge and EGT gauge. Any suggestions, most bang for the buck (don't want junk though).

 

if your engine and turbo are stock, you shouldnt really be making over 20psi. of boost... and you dont want to go over 35 psi on the stock turbo if you up grade. blowing the boost lines off is somewhat of a normal thing, but if you keep having that problem try using brake clean on the inside of the rubber connector, and the out side of the metal end. and if you really want them to stick try using a light coat of hair spray. i just used the brake clean and been running 50- 60 psi for 10,000mi. with no problems. but yes, you do need to get thoes gauges in there to see if you actually have a problem or not.

 

if you want gauges get autometer gauges with A pillar mount. really the best place to get the gauges is O'reilly auto parts and is the cheapest. that I have seen. I have looked on ebay. but when it comes down too it shipping and not even knowing if your getting the right ones till you get the package and then if its wrong try battling with them on getting your money back or correct item replaced. at autopart store don't pay for it if its wrong. plus you have a place to complain too and managers and district managers yell at.
and they also sell EDGE and bully dog for the same amount you would buy them on ebay with shipping

 

i will second that, but i have found really good prices on ebay from ihavethebestpriceperformance however i have not looked at O'reilly