The dealer likely won't have it. They don't get them seperately and the troubleshooting diagram goes strait to to "replace injection pump".

Best bet is a Cummins dealer or Bosch service center.

 

Just tried hammering the bolts and still cannot move then, slips. What ever happend to alan bolts and regular nuts??

 

INJECTION PUMP! thought i might end up their! Hear you need a puller to remove the gear!

 

All you need is a steering wheel puller to remove the gear, IF it came to that.

I have a DIY all done up that'll walk you through removing that, but I doubt that's the problem.

Seriously though, take the truck to Advance or AutoZone and get the batteries and alternator tested. If the batteries are weak, it could be part of the problem.

If the batteries check out, the next thing I would do is bring it to the dealer, pay the $65 diagnostic fee and hook it up to the DRBIII or StarScan and see what's going on with the rail pressure.

Start with the easy stuff and go from there. It's less expenive that way.

 

Coal Train, YOU ARE DA MAN!!! Finally got htose bolts out of the FCA, shook it and no rattle! Took it apart and soaked it in varnish remover, polished everything and put it back together. Fired right up and purrrrrred!!! Thanks for your right on master mind fix. This thing drove me crazy! People said lift pump, injectors, and cp3, would hve cost me mega $$$$$. Thanks again, Mike

 

No problem.

I told ya, start with little stuff, that's usually what it is on these things.

Very rarely (knock on wood) does the big stuff fail, it's the little crap that drives ya nuts.

I would suggest buying a new FCA though to keep on hand. Likely it'll crap out on ya again before to long.

 

Took a long ride and the idle is still a little off, but it is a lot smoother. Still has a lobe to the idle, May change the tank pump, (cheepest & easy). After all 179,000 and had to do nothing to this truck except brakes, etc. and recent trans job.

 

Before you pull the tank pump, disconnect it from the inlet to the CP3 and see if it's flowing properly.

If you run it to a bucket and bump the starter, it will cycle the pump for 20 seconds.

In that 20 seconds, it should flow slightly more than 1/3 of a gallon. If it's not, then the pump is probably bad.

If it's not maintaining 13 - 15 psi at idle, that's also an indicator that the pump is crap.

 

If the pump is crap(in tank), will the engine still run?

 

Yes.

The pump is a flow through design, but it's certainly not ideal as it becomes a bit of a restriction.

The CP3 is capable of drawing it's own fuel. The Dmax's use the same pump and the early ones didn't have a lift pump.....they also had a higher rate of injector failures though.

If you had to run it without the pump, I would only do it to get off the road and get it fixed. I wouldn't run it like that for long.