Just came across this post on another forum and have a question.


Quote: " Instructions:

Tools: Digital Volt Meter, T-20 Torx bit, #1 phillips, 10mm socket

With the key on, engine off you need to probe the APPS wire to see where the voltage is currently set at.
The best location to probe the wire is on the PCM (Power Control Module) which is located on the passenger firewall behind the air intake.
You want the C1 connector, this is the connector closest to the engine
You want the orange wire with a dark blue tracer which is pin #23
Voltage should be somewhere around 0.5 volts,
At this point the voltage reading does not matter, it just has to be accurately written down for later reference
TURN THE IGNITION OFF ON THE TRUCK

Remove the black plastic cover off of your APPS. There are two plastic screws. One on the top and one on the front facing the radiator. It takes a little prying to pull it off.

Undo the 6-10mm bolts that hold the bracketru in place but DO NOT REMOVE THE CABLES!!

You will notice the APPS is on the back of the bracketry that you just removed, it is held in place by 2-T20 torx bit screws. These screws have a little bit of locktite on them so make sure you have a good socket and gently give a little tap with a hammer before attempting to loosen. Be very careful because these screws strip VERY easily and you only get one shot at them (VERY VERY VERY IMPORTANT; They are VERY tight).

On the APPS you will find a white tag that gives you the information on what the APPS voltage should be.
After loosening the screws (do not remove) you can rotate the APPS clockwise or counter clockwise to get the adjustment (towards the front of the truck increases voltage and towards the rear of the truck decreases voltage)
The reading you took at the beginning of the process on pin #23 should match the white tag on your APPS. If it doesn't the adjust accordingly.

 

Well, I finally got the old one to test out.
Heres what I found.
All I can get it to test to is .500. This is the furthest clockwise setting.
The white tag says it should be .519 and the #23 post on passenger firewall reads .80.

Any thoughts? What should my APPS be set at? .519
I can't get it to go that far up.

I DO know a substantial difference in sputtering and it now has great pedal response (normal).

The only thing is the idle is now like 1700 !

I even turned down the low throttle screw but it makes no difference.

Is the thing probably shot or do I have another issue in itself?

 

OK so I finally went out and bought new APPS.
Well, it still does the high idle after warming up and spitting and sputtering crap but it's half better. Followed all directions, even let stand overnight without batt connected and did the pedal deal to re-set it. And still same thing.
Any ideas? Could it be my computer?

0122 code went away but the 1693 is the only thing left and that's been on there since I owned it. lol

Thanks

 

OK. So I put the new APPS in and it still runs like Crap while its cold but as soon as it warms up to full op temp's the truck DIES.
ANy clues?

Also seems to have a clutch problem of some sort, some grinding or noise going on in there, but think its a seperate issue alltogether.

Is there a sensor in tranny/clutch that would cause engine to shut down after warming up?

Computer?

WTF?

I have exhausted all my thoughts here.
Thanks
Just to re-itterate. Truck starts fine, then progressivley the RPMS go up and it starts running very rough until truck dies within 15 minutes of running.
Put new APPS in (since that code was coming up) and re-set the throttle and no codes still.
I don't think IP is going bad, its fairly new and has had propper fuel pressure to it.

 

what is an APPS?

 

accelerator pedal position sensor

 

oh a tps in other words?

 

Not really but yeah.

Why is nobody helping me out here ? lol

Codes don't come up any more but problem is still there.

I'm thinking computer. Would it be worth it to have the codes run with scanner rather than the key-3X deal (which I THINK doesn't bring up all codes). ??