Which engine should I use?
#1
Which engine should I use?
I am planning on building a custom rig. A very custom rig. But.... here's the deal. I plan on having a 4X4, with a modified suspension lift / lots of fender cutting for a low center of gravity, with 37 x 12.5 inch tires and a projected weight of 7500 to 8000 pounds. I want fuel economy, power and torque. So I've decided to ditch the gas engine for a diesel. But with it being so custom, I am trying to decide what era diesel. For example, I could simply buy a 97 - 02 Cummins 24valve from a junkyard, which would simply plug and play (with the required engine harness and PCM, of course) into the rest of the truck (as in gauges, dash, taillights). Or do I get gutsy and try to find a newer "common rail" system found in a newer truck? Might I possibly be able to modify another make's diesel to work (Ford, Chevy)? Another thing is the tranny. I already have an NV4500 transmission and a NP241HD transfer case. But, does Dodge build a better trans with more gears in later years? I know late models have double overdrives..... So, I am asking what year engine and what number transmission should I go with?
P.S. I have already been told that it would make more sense to buy a 3/4 ton ready to go, but I already have heartstrings attached to this truck. But this truck is paid for. Besides, where's the fun in that?
P.S. I have already been told that it would make more sense to buy a 3/4 ton ready to go, but I already have heartstrings attached to this truck. But this truck is paid for. Besides, where's the fun in that?
#2
#3
Record Breaker
putting a 6.7 in there will be a nightmare, and very expensive, the simpleest way to go would be to get a 12 valve engine with an nv4500 or nv5600 (5 or 6 speed) as the gas nv4500 has smaller shafts, the break between 12 and 24 is 98.5, then all you need is an engine harness and a pcm, the 98.5-02 24 valve will work also but will be more expensive and the 12 valve is cheaper to upgrade (really cheap... quite a few of them are free), and has alot more power potential, but having a doner truck is the only way to go, thats the way i did mine, beacuse there are a lot of little things that will nickle and dime you to death
#4
I'm sorry trucker75, I had to wipe the drool off the floor after viewing the pic in your sig. I'm not trying to argue; I'm just wondering a few things. First, are you saying 12 valves are better than 24 valves, or are you saying this swap would be simpler? This truck will be years in the making; I can bide my time and find a wrecked 6.7L parts truck. Or is this not worth it? And speaking of the 6.7, the auto version has 40hp over the standard trans. So, would there be any point in trying to find a manual?
#5
Record Breaker
I'm sorry trucker75, I had to wipe the drool off the floor after viewing the pic in your sig. I'm not trying to argue; I'm just wondering a few things. First, are you saying 12 valves are better than 24 valves, or are you saying this swap would be simpler? This truck will be years in the making; I can bide my time and find a wrecked 6.7L parts truck. Or is this not worth it? And speaking of the 6.7, the auto version has 40hp over the standard trans. So, would there be any point in trying to find a manual?
as far as the 2nd gens go, i think the 12 is much better and simpler, the 6.7 has so many electronics on it, it would be a PITA, not to mention the engine and your year of truck are no where near compatiable for the electronics as far as getting the gauges to work and doing everything right, and anything 03 and newer is the same way...
here is my engine compartment, which used to be gas, and now a 12v, it actually looks much different, and better, now, but you will get the idea
#7
Record Breaker
you could use any trans you want from any dodge/cummins setup, the only problem with the autos is everything is electronic from 96 and newer, and getting the electronics to work from anything 03 and newer will be a disaster, but if you have the will and the $$$ anything is possable,
anything from 94-02 is "basically" a bolt on, electronics and all...
anything from 94-02 is "basically" a bolt on, electronics and all...
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#8
I have been looking into a diesel swap for my 99 1500 and found that with the 24 valve it will be a little more of a headache to install because it is electronic, but all you need is a programmer and you get a butt load of power and you dont have to do anything but plug it in. On the other end the 12v is alot more just poop it in and 3 wires you get it started and you could just get the diesel dash and it works with the gas wiring.
As for transmissions. All the cummins that came in dodges are based off the same block (even the 4bt can use the same transmissions) and have the same bolt pattern so manual or auto depends on you. Also dopnt forget if you do get a 24 they came with 5 speed auto not all but i know some came with it.
If you want power and gas millage with a transmission and you dont mind spending some extra cash i would check out gearvenders over/under drive transmissions.
They put them on everything from RV's and semis to hot rods and can handle alot of power. here is the link http://www.gearvendors.com/
As for transmissions. All the cummins that came in dodges are based off the same block (even the 4bt can use the same transmissions) and have the same bolt pattern so manual or auto depends on you. Also dopnt forget if you do get a 24 they came with 5 speed auto not all but i know some came with it.
If you want power and gas millage with a transmission and you dont mind spending some extra cash i would check out gearvenders over/under drive transmissions.
They put them on everything from RV's and semis to hot rods and can handle alot of power. here is the link http://www.gearvendors.com/
Last edited by bigjohnellinas; 11-05-2010 at 06:58 PM.
#9
I have a question for you trucker75. have you looked into putting a diesel in a newer truck here in California? if so how would you get passed the smog rules in California. Do you just take it to a ref station? I want to put either a 4bt or a 12v or 24v in my 1500 but Im worried about registration. Also what did you have to do to your front suspension to compensate for the extra weight of the diesel
That is another thing im worried about about suspension and my rear axel would it hold up to the extra power and weight. I was already thinking about changing the transmission with the swap so i am not concerned about that.
Any incite would help both johnnyrocket and I
That is another thing im worried about about suspension and my rear axel would it hold up to the extra power and weight. I was already thinking about changing the transmission with the swap so i am not concerned about that.
Any incite would help both johnnyrocket and I
Last edited by bigjohnellinas; 11-05-2010 at 07:14 PM.
#10
Record Breaker
i took mine to the ref, it was free of charge, and they just signed it off, no more smog, that simple,
for the suspention, mine was a v-10 , and v-10/cummins are identical trucks in every way other than the engines, and miss. diesel parts, a 1500 would handel it, just through some diesel coils in it to keep ride heigth, but if you beat it off road, or have large tire, the axles may suffer, other than the size of the axles, and the springs, everything else is the same,
a 24v may be plug and play with a chip, but the cost of a chip, far out weighs the simple tuning you can do to a 12v, with simple hand tools, and will gain more hp than a chip, as well as the reliability of the p-pump over the ve-pump, which are very weak in comparision
for the suspention, mine was a v-10 , and v-10/cummins are identical trucks in every way other than the engines, and miss. diesel parts, a 1500 would handel it, just through some diesel coils in it to keep ride heigth, but if you beat it off road, or have large tire, the axles may suffer, other than the size of the axles, and the springs, everything else is the same,
a 24v may be plug and play with a chip, but the cost of a chip, far out weighs the simple tuning you can do to a 12v, with simple hand tools, and will gain more hp than a chip, as well as the reliability of the p-pump over the ve-pump, which are very weak in comparision