ok thanks

 

jmn,
I am diesel stupid too and getting my first diesel (Ram 2500 5.9L) truck this week
Before you run WVO/SVO or Bio-Diesel check into your truck and if it has rubber components in your fuel and intake system. I believe it was '96 and above that they started making engines more compatible for use with alcohol based fuels. WVO/SVO or Bio-Diesel eat rubber up and create leaks. Just read through a complete post about Bio diesel here very helpful, also I have been looking into this for the past 2 years and just never pulled the trigger. I am in So Cal and already lined up 3 restaurants and a friend is selling me his system for $500 and hopefully connect me with his old pick ups (he doesn't have the time anymore but said he'll buy from me). Sorry don't mean to highjack your thread.

 

thanks chief,
mine is a 93 and they say it will burn it fine, i just started to burn wvo and it seems to be doing fine, i think i need to put a inline heater though,asit runs fine except on start up when it is cold out,high 30,s and below, but other than that it is doing well, thanks for the input.
mike

 

jmn
I have been running my 24V with 70%WVO, 10%Kero and 10% diesel fuel with no problems. In Winter I switch to 60/40 basically with 5% gasoline. Make sure the oil is filtered down to 10mc or youll go through filters like mad man. lol

I think the older trucks will run even better.

The only thing I did was add a pad heater and plug it in at night as well as an auxilliary inline fuel pump and fuel pressure gage.

I think a 12V filter heater would really help matters out as well as your driving, so you got the plug-in at night and as you roll have the 12V going on the filter. Make sure you have it hooked up so it won't run all night and kill your batteries though.

I have found that the truck won't run well until the entire fuel system is heated up nice (not HOT, but warm at least in the 24V) ; remember the engine and oil will heat up much faster than the entire fuel tank (unless you plugged her in at night).

oh, one more thing. To prevent coking, I always run a kerosene/diesel/gasoline mixture through every 4 tankfulls; about 5 gallons worth.

Good luck.

 

thanks, i really dont think running gas thru it safe though, ill pass on that idea, pluging in at night only keeps the block warm , has nothing to do with the fuel, i like the idea of the in line pump, and i will add on a inline heater and run it thru a lighted rocker switch and make sure it is only hot with the key, that way i can use it at will. thanks for your input
mike

 

I like the pad idea on the tank. I have those on my travel trailer water and sewer tanks, my only concern is constant heat on the fuel. Is there issue with fuel?

 

no issues with the fuel,i put 10 gals wvo into a 30 gal tank, it runs good,smells good, just with the 30 deg. temps i need to heat it up a bit,ordered ain line heater out of germany, so waiting for it to get here.
mike

 

Hey Mike, you can pass on the gas but plugging it in ABSOLUTELY helps it out. If you read my post fully, says I have a pad heater on the TANK. My system is all connected via a 3-way plug in front of engine so when I plug it in , the block AND fuel system are heated.
I use a 200W pad heater and it works great.
I ONLY use the heaters when it sits at night, not all the time since they are 120V not 12V so there is not constant heat on the system. I will probably add a 12V switched fuel filter heater soon as well. No need to get anything from Germany.
Some people say the fuel needs to be very got in order to atomize properly and not coke, I say BS. As long as you have some petro in there and keep the fuel warm it is fine as long as you 'purge' the system from time to time with some diesel/kero mixture.
Only thing is that SOME vehicles/engines may require a 'bit' more heat than orthers. The VP44 IP needs the fuel to cool it and you will kill it if you try 'extra' heating of the fuel like in many WVO systems.

 

oh ok i thought y were talking abou the block heater,sorry, i really dont want tp plug in every night, so i think a 12v in line heater would prob. be best for what i want to do. it starts and runs fine , but as the cold morns the oil diesel mixture is to cold, it strts and runs but rough till everything gets warmed under the hood. so i was thinking of puting the inline right in front of the lift pump so it will get to the pump then filter then inj pump. mine is not a 44 pmp mine is the older one (rotorary) so the heat is no prob. dont remember the pmp model.

 

Sounds good and what a lot of guys do. Make sure you install an inexpensive fuel pressure gauge too so you know what's happening.
Also, not sure on your pump's requirements or if it's a Bosch or not but even if its not, any bio D or WVO mixtures will lower the OEM psi so your going to want to install an inline fuel pump as a helper to save your IP and it will also run a lot better. You can buy a more expensive ($250) georator type or a simple rotary/vane type pump for $50-75. My cheapo has lasted 2 yrs now running 70%wvo.

Just a FYI, Dodge tells people the correct FP for the VP44 is 7-9 or something rediculous like that. If you ask Bosch and Cummins they tell a completely different story, they tell me 15-20psi and 10 is the danger zone.
I would find out what a GOOD (not Min.) pressure is for your IP (under load ) and make certain you keep them up to that via a secondary helper pump. Maybe you wont' need one with the percentages you will run?
Engine ring coking will happen when the engine runs cold or cool. To slow that down always purge with diesel and a tad of solvents. Some bio guys are advocating always putting some solvents to ovoid coking or severely slow it down. A lot use turpentine and/or acetone @ 7.5ml/G of fuel.
Good luck.