I am a first time diesel owner. I own a 2008 Dodge Ram 2500 Mega Cab with the 6.7 Cummins; Automatic 6-Speed Transimission with 4 wheel drive. It has 71,000 miles on it. I have not done a single thing to it other than regular maintenance i.e. change the oil, fuel filter, brakes, etc. I have been doing a great deal of research on the truck and I have learned that Dodge has more or less strangled the Cummins motor on this truck in order to be compliant with emissions standards thus restricting power. After it turns 100,000 miles it will be out of warranty and I really want to modify the truck to allow optimal performance/strength/power, etc. I have been told to put a straight pipe in it, K&N, Superchip, etc.

If any of you have been in this situation and gotten good results from the modifications you made please advise what you did. I appreciate it.

 

One thing before we start...

The same basic design used on the 6.7 Cummins is also the same system used on the 07-10 LMM Duramax and 08-10 6.4 Powerstroke. The manufacturers were forced into a corner and had to get the best they could at the time; it's still an on-going learning process.

And the 6.7 has the highest factory power rating that's come from Dodge in the diesel...power is decent for stock


No on K&N, and double no on Superchips; Superchips won't get you anywhere near where you want to be. Superchips does not allow for DPF or EGR delete.

Here's what you need to look into:

Intake, either AFE or S&B. I'd lean toward the S&B since it costs less and serves the same function. I have an S&B on my 6.7-swapped 03.

Exhaust: obviously the DPF needs to go. Any turbo-back exhaust for an 04.5-07 Dodge will work, and it serves the function of deleting the cat in the downpipe, as well as the DPF and cat and resonator. MBRP, Ansa/Silverline, Flo-Pro, etc are good units.

Programming: you need programming in order to have code-free deletes, as well as a bump in power. Best out there is EFILive. Other options are H&S and Smarty. With any programmer, gauges need to be installed; H&S has a gauge pack that mounts on the dash. Plenty of options for gauges, such as the Edge Insight CS/CTS (I have the CTS, great unit), Autometer, Isspro, etc.

You also need to block the EGR and delete the EGR cooler. EGR is what kills these things, it just dumps soot into the engine. A cooler delete consists of removing the cooler mounted on the exhaust manifold and blocks the ports in the manifold with thick plates. You also remove the EGR motor on the intake horn, and you can either use a block-off plate for those ports, or get an aftermarket intake horn. I chose the intake horn and am glad I did.

 

bought a AFE 49-42009 exhaust without the sensor plugs do i need to worry about them or no ?.and looking to get the egr delete running with a smarty tuner .

 

You're just going to leave all of the exhaust sensors (o2) unplugged, wire tie the connectors up out of the way. The sensor bolted to the transmission that has the two tubes going to pre/post DPF leave plugged in, and get a piece of rubber hose and connect the two sides of the sensor. It's a pressure differential sensor to detect when the DPF is getting clogged. If you loop it, there's never a difference.

 

Thanks for the post I'm having all the same problems warranty is up in February thank god.