ok so i want the easy and cheap way out to gain a little power and roll some coal so i though programer but got talking with my friends and they said that they are bad/hard on the motor and the motor will not last as long i have a 1998.5 3500 5 speed with only 109000 on it would like to make it last and if i get one i will probaly go with smarty but would like some help picking out one i would like one where you can put it back to stock settings if you want to

 

If you're worried about breaking your motor, get a programmer that has relatively conservative tunes. Edge products will get you good power and will typically keep your well within the safe zone.

But before you buy a programmer, what kind of fuel pump are you running? What's your idle and WOT fuel pressure? What are your EGTs? Have you addressed the 5th gear nut issue?

 

its 100% stock it has the hd tranny 5 speed

 

The 5-speed is an NV4500 and they have a problem with the nut that holds 5th gear together falling off.

100% stock means programmer is about the 4th thing down the list that you should buy.

Get a fuel pressure gauge on it first. FIRST.
Get an aftermarket lift pump solution.
Get a pyro gauge.
THEN you can think about adding power.

You've got a VP44 injection pump which has electronics on it that WILL COOK if your fuel supply is not sufficient. At stock power levels, the pressure equivalents that you need to see are about 14psi for happy motoring. 7psi is reportedly what Dodge says is safe, but in reality you're not returning enough fuel to the tank to cool the pump. If you're willing to throw a couple grand at a new injection pump and lift pump (if you do the labor) then go ahead and skip directly to the programmer.

 

1st of all you NEED a fuel psi gauge and aftermarket lift pump as mentioned! Fass or fuel lab are the only reliable options at this time. The vp44 costs 1,000 just to buy. Now if you dont do it yourself you can add on a min of 500 for labor. Plus the price to get a good lift pump now is now around 600.00. So you could spend your 600 for your programmer and then 2k+ down the road for your vp and lift pump and also another 800 for a new clutch. Stock clutches can only handle 60-100hp. Some dont even take that but others will if you are easy on them and dont haul/tow a lot.

 

Supporting mods and tuning are the key to making it last a long time.

My truck has 576hp/1285tq @ the rear wheels. It has been over 500hp for 4 years now.

now how did I manage that?

I daily drive it too...

 

Jigabob, does this apply to the 6.7, as well. I have a 12, was going to do delete's. They either an H&S. Or smarty.

 

I don't see why not?

with proper supporting modifications and tuning, any of the cummins engines can be powerful and reliable.


There is a sig a few guys have on cumminsforum that holds quite true...


Powerful, reliable, cheap. pick any two, the third is not included.


The reason people think it's bad for the motor is because they are too stubborn or cheap to spend the money on the supporting mods to make more power hold up...

They like to just get power cheaply and don't care about the consequences.


For example: on 2nd gen 24v's the lift pump is the weakest link even on a stock truck and almost can't keep up with stock fuel demands, so then they put programmers or fueling boxes on the trucks without upgrading the lift pump and they starve the injection pump for fuel and take the injection pump out...

If they would have simply upgraded that lift pump to one that can keep up with higher fuel demands and put a gauge on there to monitor the fuel pressure, they would have been able to add the power without the catastrophic consequences.

using my truck as an example: I have a very aggressive fueling box, compound twin turbos, and large competition fuel injectors(240hp+)

if my truck was stock other than that it wouldn't be drivable right now lol.

but I have the supporting mods necessary to run that setup...

I have an upgraded fuel system (150GPH lift pump, 1/2" fuel lines from the 1/2" upgraded draw straw in the fuel tank, all the way to the injection pump) a fuel pressure gauge, two boost gauges (one for each stage of the turbos) pyrometer, trans temp gauge, added transmission cooling, upgraded clutch hydraulics, double disc clutch with 3600# pressure plate and larger flywheel, upgraded valve springs and push rods, upgraded intercooler boots, head studs, and of course I tuned it to make the power roll in progressively rather than slam in all at once to help reduce drive train stress.

result: my rear end, driveline, trans and transfer case are all in one piece!

many other upgrades on my truck, but they aren't relevant to engine performance.


had I not upgraded my fuel system: my injection pump would have been toast...

had I not replaced my head bolts with head studs, my head gasket would have popped.

had I not replaced my stock valve springs with higher spring rate valve springs my valves would have floated and contacted pistons.

had I not upgraded my push rods, my heavier valve springs might have bent my push rods.

you guys get the idea...

 

I do. Thanks for the info. I'll post some updates.