my dad has a '99 3500 CTD 4x4. It has just over 65,000 miles on it. also has a banks stinger kit installed. awesome truck! about a week ago he took the truck for about a 300 mile drive to go pick up a equiptment trailer and the truck stalled. he thought for sure it was the lift pump, he was able to hold the throttle to the floor and fire it up and limp it home. he replaced the lift pump and the truck still wouldnt start. this is going to sound unbelievable but the only way he was able to start it was with the lift pump unplugged, when it started he would then hook the pump back up. however, that only lasted for probably another 100 miles or so, and now he cant get the truck to start at all. so, any ideas? vp44? i really have no idea.

 

Did he replace the fuel filter when he did the lift pump?

 

VP44 is fried and that aint a cheap part.

when the lift pump died and the truck stalled the best thing for him to have done would be to leave it where it stood and get another lift pump.

 

ya, the fuel filter was replaced. he even dropped the tank and cleaned it out, then put new fuel in it. we started the r&r of the vp44. youre right, not a cheap part, deffinatley not easy either. the core charge alone is like $400. when you get the pump out, is there a way to bench test the unit? id hate to see him replace the pump and have it not be the problem. how about the 12 valves, is this common with them also?

 

Scan it for a code, the vp44 leaves a code most of the time. You can get it done for free at autozone.

 

Not a problem for 12-valves. The P7100 (12-valve pump) is a bit tougher (lubed by engine oil I believe, VP44 relies on the fuel) and the lift pump in front of the P7100 is mechanical, not prone to breaking. The biggest problem with the VP44 is the lift pump that goes, then hashes the VP44, the VP44 isn't the toughest pump either, though.

 

the VE, P7100, and CP3 pumps Cummins has used is oiled by the engine oil. the VP44 is lubed by the Diesel fuel. so you are correct.

if you do pull the VP44 off and have it tested you will notice it will either produce very little pressure, or none at all. just remember, you need to have around 5,000 psi or so to fire the jerk style injectors the pre HPCR engines use. the HPCR engines (03 to present) runs upwards of 20,000 PSI and the injectors are fired electronicaly not by the pressure the pump generates.

 

so, other than the gear puller, are their any special tools required to remove the pump?

 

Ive never done it myself, but I believe that is all you need. . .oh, and some line wrenches, you dont want to strip the fuel lines

 

Don't bend the fuel lines! Take them off at both ends to get them out of your way. If you bend them, they will be a real pain to put back on. Also the stress on them will cause them to crack eventually.