Dodge/Ram Diesel Tech Discussions on all generations of Cummins Diesel powered Rams plus the new Eco Diesel

Newbue needs Advise

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Old 05-20-2006, 08:27 PM
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Default Newbue needs Advise

Hey all your Cummins Experts. I'm in the trading mood of getting rid of my 2004 F150 SC 4x4 for a real size work truck: 2000 3500 SLT Laramie Diesel, dually, manual 2wd, Quad cab with 8 foot bed. Mileage is 57022, and asking price is $19995. The dealer gives 3 years free oil changes and also has a 60 day exchange policy. The real question I would like to know is what mpg does one get from these vehicles? I drive conservatively, never over 55. Is there a dramatic difference between 4x4 and 2x4 consumption? And how was that production year for these rigs? All advise and help is most appreciated before I make the move. Thanks again and looking forward to all replies.

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Old 05-20-2006, 10:32 PM
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Default RE: Newbue needs Advise

and you havent gotten the truck yet???

if I keep my 04.5 at 60 I can see 23mpg. but I do 70 most of the time and usualy average 19-20 unloaded.

the only concern I would have for the truck is to make sure the lift pump and Bosch VP44 injector pump is working good. then when you fill it up add 16oz Power Service and 8oz Marvels Mystery Oil to every tank. both add alot of lubrication to the fuel and with the new ULSD that is on its way you need all you can get.

the reason I say this is the VP44 pump lubricates itself with the diesel fuel. if the lift pump goes out it will kill the injector pump, also low lubrication will do the same. this is the only pump that does this, the VE(89-93) P7100(94-98) and the CP3 (03-present) are lubricated by the engine oil.

also one more thing, with a flashlight crawl under the engine and look near the front of the block near where the oil pan is bolted to the block. if you see the number '53' stamped anywhere you will need to be weary about this particular block cracking on the passangers side behind the exhaust manifold. This block is a Brazillian casting and there was a goof-up during casting that caused the side wall to be only 5.5mm thick instead of the needed 11mm. I am only telling you this so it is something to put on the back burner. Not all '53' blocks have cracked and there are still hundreds of thousands of these engines on the road without any problems. but there are those that have cracked.

if the numbering cannot be read, or it says something other than '53' it is either the revised brazillian casting, or a casting from mexico. both are very good engines and for some reason have about 100 pounds more metal in them
 
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Old 05-21-2006, 01:06 AM
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Default RE: Newbue needs Advise

Hey Drew, thanks for the information. No I am seriously considering this rig. However, at 57K miles, should I be expecting the lift pumpt to go so soon? Its a manual 4x2, doulie with the 5 spd manual. I am assuming its rear is 3.55. What realistic number should I expect from city driving and then highway. I don't speed and since this is a manual I like to coast down hills out of gear.

I will definitely check if the motor block is from Brazil. The motor can be built in Brazil whereas the truck could have been assembled in Canada. If the rig was built in Mexico, I can see the advantagous of getting the motor from Brazil. So I assume there is no rule of thumb? The cracking occured mostly on auto or both manuals?

I appreciate all the info you gave me and will definitely print it out for my own maintenance of the truck. BTW, this dealerships gives a 3 year oil change on the truck. THe only problem, they are located about 75 miles away. Last question, with the new diesels appearing on the horizon, what affect will it have on the older Cummins? I assume Biodiesel won't cause a problem for this 2000 rig.

Looking forward to your advice and expertise. It sounds like you breath and smoke Cummins /Dodge Rams. Well thats a good thing, better than a Tacoma.

Ted
 
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Old 05-21-2006, 05:18 PM
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Default RE: Newbue needs Advise

my little taco is my round town runner and I drive it to work, it is also my play toy, the intake, exhaust, and other parts of the engine have been tinkered with but when I get the money up I can see a Cummins 3.3 or a 4At sitting under the hood. the Ram is for my long hauls and when I have to pull something.

anyway, the 53 block will fracture on both auto's or manuals, stock or BOMB'd. it can be fixed by a lock and stitch method of drilling the block to keep the crack from spreading and then welding material in to seal the crack.

the only way to tell what rear axel ratio you have is to drive it. I have 4.10's and at 2000rpm I'm going 62mph, my 6th gear ratio is 0.73:1 as opposed to the NV4500HD's 0.75:1. so with 4.10's you would be turning around the same, about 60mph at 2000rpm, however with 3.54's you would be going about 70 at 2000rpm. and one thing to watch out for with the NV4500HD is that they tend to drop 5th gear, but this can be easily repared at any tranny shop with a few spot welds

with the lift pump the best way to keep tabs on it is to get a fuel pressure gage and mount the line to the gage on the line between the fuel filter and the injector pump. this will serve two purposes. one, it will show you when you need to change the fuel filter, and two, it will give you early signs of lift pump problems. as long as idle pressure is above 12-14psi, cruseing pressure of 8-12, and full throttle pressure above 6psi everything is ok, however if you see the pressure gradualy dropping, and youve driven about 3-5K miles, that is a good time to change the fuel filter, if it drops all of a sudden, time to park the truck and change the lift pump to something more reliable, FASS or walbro pumps are good, but while the stocker is running good dont worry about it

the only problem BIO will give you is at first it will clean the tank and fuel lines gunking up the fuel filter. it will take two to three filter changes to get all this gunk out. it is mainly due to the addition of low weight alcohols that basicaly dissolve the glycerine that is normaly found in diesel.

BIO in my eyes is a better fuel than diesel. it has far better lubricative properties, a higher cetane rateing, and doesnt cost $2.75 a gallon. infact I'm getting the stuff ready to make my own reactor to create Bio in my basement. the only thing you have to watch out for if the pH level and make sure your math is right when your titrating the mix.

I'm in the begining stages of creating a FAQ and how-to on these trucks on the simple things to keep the engine happy from changeing out the fuel filter, changeing the oil and other maintenance topics. but with you getting three years of free oil changes, thats a heck of a deal since it cost me to do it myself $25 filter and three gallons of oil, but it is about to go up sincec I'll be switching to synthetics soon
 



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