Well, couldnt find anyone who has one what would tell me how it performed so I guess I'll have to try 1st hand... it's on order and should be here in about a week...

http://www.atsdiesel.com/atswebsite/...InManifold.asp

 

would be interesting to find out. . .a cromed out piece would look bad @55

anyway, you might be openeing up the intake horn, but you are still limited as to what can be pushed through the intake heater grid as well as the intake plenum. cylinders #1 and #6 generaly get the short end of the stick when it comes to fresh air comeing in since the plenum shrinks in the front and the back rather abruptly.

 

yeah, I saw that. which brings up an interesting question... when is the grid actually on and at what temp? my butt dyno tells me the most power is available when the intake temp is at 100~110 deg for some reason. I'm assuming that is when the maximum burn is taking place. if it's too cold, then there would be an incomplete burn, too hot and you burn it all but loose power due to the heat... am I close?

I would have to assume a 180 deg t-stat is not a good mod on a diesel because of this...

my brother asked why i'm getting the intake... "dont I have enough power now"... my reply... of course not lol

really, the goal is to improve the natrually aspirated power to minimize fuel consumption while keeping the available power on tap to a maximum... make low end torque, while keeping boost low, then make it flow like crazy when I need it. One thing that would work is a manual type of exhaust brake. set it partially close to make the flow lower at low rpms, then open it up when flow increases under WOT.... (I think too much sometimes...).

 

the grid only comes on when the temp is below 50F, then cycles for a few min or you go above 18mph.

with the 180 t-stat, you are right, if the block gets too cool the fuel will not burn fully, this is the reason for the grid heater when it is cold. (50 realy isnt cold to me) when it gets too hot you have to worry more with higher EGT's than you would with degraded performance.

this is the main reason nitrous on a diesel realy isnt a power adder, it only cools the air charge more than what the intercooler can on it's own so you are able to stuff more cooler air into the cylinder.

with all the stuff your trying to do to keep your low end torque your soon going to turn the cummins into a international 6.oh-no.

 

huh? I dont get it (international...)?

I'm just greedy, I want killer low end and killer top end. If I could find a 4" butterfly valve that would work in the exhast cheep where I could either hook a cable control on it or somehow control how it's movement happens, i'd do it. I dont mind experimenting with my truck... what would be good is a spring loaded valve... if I could find the right springs and whatnot...it could work.

I already know that when I put the stock air box on, low end comes back and mpg go up. the one drawback is the top end suffers. if I had a valve in there somewhere to regulate flow i should have the best of both worlds...

edit: oops, forgot to finish my thought... with the spring(s) on the exhaust valve, when the flow is great enough to open the valve all the way, then the top end is mostly restored to flow w/o the valve (minus the thickness of the valve and the rail it's on)...

 

your basicaly creating an exhaust brake there Steve

 

yeah funny how that sounds huh... except instead of using the full range of the brake, manually adust it so it cannot provide the braking action of a true e-brake. I dont need an e-brake (yet)... just would like control over the exhaust flow for my own greedy needs lol

Also, on my gasser I had setup a fuel cooler and insulated my fuel rails so they would not get heat soaked during stop & go traffic... this gave me a 6% increase in mileage. Do you know if there is any advantage in having the diesel fuel rail heat soaked? do you think i'd run into trouble in the winter if I wrapped the fuel rail?

 

Diesel doesnt expand like gasoline does. it takes a good bit more heat to raise the temprature of Diesel as well. infact most OTR trucks have a fuel warmer in the fuel tanks that runs off the engine coolant so no matter the time of the year you can stick your hand in the tank and the fuel is rather warm.

I wouldnt worry about the heat, but what I would worry about would be the cold since Diesel will gell at low temps.

 

Can anyone help me out, I have a 06 cummins and i want to put a intake elbow on but dont know what one would be the best bang for the buck.

 

A stock intake horn from a 2nd gen 24 valve engine. I got mine and will be installing it this weekend hopefully. Best bang for the buck. Aftermarket = $300+, used 2nd gen = $20 - $70.