just curious.. i was wondering if your CTD's alternerators run 24 or 12... and if any circuits run 24V on your deisils.. maybe be a silly question but im looking at fabrictaing in a 205 amp desiel alternator into my 5.9L gasser..

 

I'm gonna take a stab at this one. First off, everything on my 95' is 12 volt (and less for applications like TPS). The batteries are in parallel so that maximum cranking amps can be aquired. I purchased a 208 amp alternator about 2 years ago and have had ZERO problems with it. One thing I do remember is that the gas engine 2500's seems to have a 7 groove pully setup, and the diesels have 8. You can always over dive your alternator with a smaller pully. And never forget to increase the size of the charge wire from the alt back to the battery. Not the small wire that powers the exciter field, but the large gauge wire which carrys the vehilcles full load. It will go directly back to the + battery cable terminal.

In reality, if the alternator is working properly and has not exceeded it's max amperage, the truck batteries do nothing but get recharged while the vehicle is running. You can leave the original large diameter wire and just piggy back your new one on top of it. I used 4 gauge wire. The wire was the easy part. Getting a crimp terminal that would fit the stud was another....lol. Alternator status is easily monitored with a volt meter. I will try to insert a pic. My volt meter obviously, is all the way to the right.

Keep in mind that gas vehicles need constant voltage to run (spark plugs), where a diesel needs none once it's running. Diesels demand great amperage because of starter draw and heater sequences. My engine relys on compression to start. A diesel will run with ZERO volts. It only uses power for gauges and the PCM along with the basics, lights, blower, etc.

Another bonus for my elctrical system, well, actually the battery(s) is the onboard conditioner I installed when the truck was new. I have a Schumacher battery conditioner/charger that is wired into my trucks 110 system. During the colder months, when my truck sits overnight, I am continuosly charging the batteries. Batteries will NOT take a charge at 32 degrees or lower. If you drive in the cold and plug the truck in when you get home, your batteries WILL charge because they are above freezing. Once the water/acid is excited by charging, it will stay above 32 degrees as long as it's being charged. My truck is 12 years old and on it's second set of batteries still. Maintainence is the key to longevity.

I hope this helped a little. I tend to rattle but I am into my Ram.lol. I just got home, and now I am going to devour a Wendy's calssic double, with cheese, pickles, onions, and SMOTHERED in bbq sauce.......LOL. Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.

Good luck my friend.


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I never knew that about diesels not NEEDING the batteries thing. Learn something new every day.


Do you really think it's nessary to constantly keep charging the batteries in the winter Demon ?

 

Well, I keep them charging constantly because I have several items that are always on. I have three cables for my phone, bluetooth, and a scanner. Even when I am not charging them, their power cords are illuminated.

My conditioner is only 3 amp max. There is no hard charging on the batteries. I use the fact that in 12 years, I have only replaced my batteries one time as testament to using a conditioner. I am on my second set. None of my friends can make that claim..LOL.

I also take the caps off a couple times a year and check the water. Electrolytes are the last thing to be boiled off in a battery. The water goes first. I top both batteries off right to the top. They will vent the excess water on their own through the breathers. Make sure you use distilled water exclusively. Tap water will have minerals in it which corrodes the plates inside the battery. Naturally, clean connections are a must. You get some guys who attach 50 different wires to the battery. Wires like steroe amps, fog lamps, alarms, etc. That's all fine and dandy but any dissimilar metals will cause corrosion. A copper terminal against aluminum will corrode. And the presence of battery acid gas just accelerates that corrosion. You should use a good anti-corrosion terminal spray. The only time that protection is compromised (sp) is if you use jumper cables. The cable jaws have to penetrate to make a connection. That's where corrosion will start.

I know it's sounds excessive but I strive to get the biggest bang for my buck. I also enjoy tinkering on the truck, as we all do or we wouldn't be here.......lol.
I enjoy maintainence, and making sure everything is operating properly. I have to ready at a moments notice in case some poor Ford or Chevy bastard wants to hook chains up. Make no mistake, I run my mouth about my trucks abilities. I back it up every time............LOL. Someday someone bigger and badder will come along. Till then, I'm having a blast.


Ok Mayfair, I am going to the junk yard to find some master cylinders. My latest passion is rebuilding them. Don't ask me why, I'm funny like that.

Take care.

 

I think I've only replaced my batteries one time since new as well, but then again compaired to your truck mine is still a baby. Also, I don't have near as many doo-dads on my truck as you do.

I've only recently become interrested in my Ram and it's maintenance. Prior to last year I've always thought as my Ram as a new viechle that didn't need anything more than routine maintenance done to it. It wasn't until my brother bought a 62 Chevy pickup that I really started looking at my own. He's in the process of restoring it and it got me to thinking. If the previous owner hadn't let so and so go than this job wouldn't be that bad. Right then and there I wanted to keep my Ram as tip top as possible, and that's what brought me here.

This isn't my first truck, but it IS my first diesel, so if I seem to ask some very stupid questions please bear with me. Thanks in advance for all of your help ... all of you !!

As far as batteries go ( we really wandered off of that subject huh ... LOL ) I just cleaned up the terminals because of tranny problems. After cleaning them up, I sprayed them with some purple permatex stuff to keep them from corroding. I thought that maybe it was just a scam, but after hearing you mention terminal spray I now feel better for using it.

What's up with those felt washers? Do you really need them?

 

Permatex......lol.that's the name. They make my favorite hand cleaners as well.

It's my understanding that the felt washers were soaked in something to help prevent corrosion that would normally form under the terminal. The flakey yellowish build up you see form on the teminals is VERY acidic. It eats the plastic that is used to seal around the post as it comes up through the battery housing. Ever see a battery top post, or side post that either broke off, or was loose like a baby tooth? That's because of the corrosion from the dissimilar metals. The top side I have always just sprayed. Some guys keep a coat of dielectric grease painted on the terminals. It works but to me it also collects road grime and dirt.

One other thing that I noticed with my battery cables was wire diameter. I personally think the diesel are underwired. About 3 years ago I redid every cable on the truck. Looking at the outer diameter, you'd think it was 1/0 cable. When I cut it, it was MAYBE 2-4 gauge at best. Works for the short term, new starter. But as things get older, they draw much more than, when they were new to the world.LOL.

I redid all the connections with 1/0 fine strand welding cable. Both grounds, the jumper wire, the starter cable, the fuses boxes, etc. You get the idea. My starters screams cause it's gettin all the power it wants. I know that making all new cables is extreme for some, but mine needed to be redone because the factory ones are some of the lowest quality there is. Crimping is the only way to achieve premium connections. Some guys even "tin" the cable with solder first. A very long process that I find unnecessary. Crimp it, apply some anti-corrosion paste where the terminal and insulation meet, give a few wraps of elec tape, and then heat shrink with a quality, heavy duty shrink tubing. I left each piece of shrink tubing 6 inches long. It will take a nuclear war to get to the copper....lol.

It's easy. The big cost is crimpers. I bought a set of Thomas & Betts crimpers. They do 8 gauge all the way up to 4/0. I have made cables for all my friends. They buy the wire, the ends, and the tubing, the beer and wings, I donate the labor. (I have to justify $600.00 for a cable crimper that's been used maybe 50 times.....lol)


Anyway, it will come to you my young Jedi. Use the force.


Good luck pal.

 

Hello my friend !!!

LOL !!!

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Not a problem. I find you can fit quite a bit in those one rate USPS boxes.

 

you guys are funny

Diesel Demon is right though, diesels realy dont require power to run, only with these newfangled electronic engines are you seeing where the engine require power to run(injectors, pump pressures, lift pump, MAP, AIT, Throttle. . .)

the older 12 valves only needed power to start, and the reason for the large altenator was to #1, recharge the batteries, #2, these trucks are going to be pulling something, electric brakes take power, the batteries on the campers take juice to charge and any other appliance on the camper(refergerator/freezer) is going to be running off the altenator when running.