If you had the compressor clutch DISCONNECTED, and the fuse still blew, you probably have a pinched wire, or it has rubbed thru somewhere.

It's a 2 wire to the compressor clutch. Follow it back from the disconnect at the clutch. Look for a nicked wire. If there has ever been work done on that side of the motor, it is very possible that wires got caught in the work. I get degreaser, and spray the wireloom before I start peeling it off. Then rinse it if you have a good trigger finger on the garden hose........lol. If you clean it, then you can re-tape it and the tape will adhere. The 2 wire off the compressor clutch, won't be very long in length. Maybe 8 inches or so, then it will meet more wires. Sometimes the actual connector will melt enough where the terminals are able to make contact from vehicle vibration.



Download the manual so you know which wire is POS and which one is NEG. Follow the POS wire first. I suspect you will find your problem.

Again, all this applies if your fuse DID blow with the compressor clutch DISCONNECTED.


And I'd hold off on unbolting anything.....LOL.


Good luck.

 

I said that I would post an update when I was able to check things out. It has taken me a long time to get to checking things out, but I am continuing to progress.

I have tested the fuse with the wire disconnected. It did not blow - therefore the clutch is actually the short. I was able to verify this by a resistance test to ground.

I have checked the R134 pressure. It is good and the system does not seem to be loosing pressure.

I have removed the serpentine belt and the compressor and clutch turns freely.

There does not seem to be enough room to remove the clutch without removing the compressor from the system. Since I would have to discharge the system (actually have someone evacuate the R134 so I am not in violation of the law), then I believe I might as well replace the compressor, dryer, and orifice.

What a pain. If anyone can provide me with the amount of compressor oil I will need to add to the system and the amount of R134 I need to add, it would be great. I know that once I replace all of the components, I will have to have the system put under a vacume to be sure there are no leaks, but once I have that done, I can add the R134 because I have the guages needed to set the high and low pressure. Also, I would like to know what the pressures should be.

Thanks,
Rodney

 

Compressor Oil - The book says to drain the oil from the old compressor and add that amount of new oil to the new compressor.
Regrigerant (R-134a) capacity - 32 ounces (0.907 kg)
When evacuating the system (vacuum leak test), you are supposed to bring the system under 26 in. Hg. (88 kPa) of vacuum, and it should be able to hold this for 5 minutes.
Attached is the temperature/pressure chart.

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