I usually wait for the 6 chimes to end before I crank it, but sometimes I don't. As far as I can tell that has no bearing on it unless it's below 50 degrees and then we'll have to wait for the start light to go out. It hasn't been cold enough here for that yet.

 

When I read the manual, it says that little red light is showing that the system is arming the sentry key system. The little computer chip in the key -- sorry not that much of a techy when it comes to mechanical. I've had the coil light (that's what I meant about the wait to start) when temps drop below 50.

Mine's a manual, but I will try the trick of turning it off if it doesn't start in the first few revs. Thanks for the info on the trick and the (hopefully) flash to come.

 

Mine nearly did NOT start yesterday. Only 1700 miles on it, and yesterday, when it wouldn't start, I tried the short cranks method. After the 4th would not start, I took it out of 1st and it started right up. Coincidence, I believe. Not sure. But even in Neutral, after the coil and red light were off, I went back to long cranks (nothing over 30 sec), it started, but probably after about 10 - 12 cranks. Just still trying to get used to the diesel.

 

first of all the CP3 has to pressurize the rail, second the crank and cam sensors have to be within a certian tollerance of each other before it will fire.

if there is not enough pressure in the rail the engine will not fire, if the crank and cam sensors are reading different it again will not fire.

theres a few other thigns as well but that is the main thing that makes for long start times.

 

MTRam,

I would take it in to be checked out ASAP as having to crank it for 30 seconds is way to long and not good for the starter. Does it only do it when cold, when you try to start it for the first time of the day?

 

I agree -- 30 seconds is a long time and hard on the starter. Patterns have shown that it's only the first time of the day, doesn't matter whether it's cold or not; I thought about that. A few weeks ago, we were having warm weather here in Montana, and it would do it as well. It's not everytime, but more often than it should. I will take it in if it keeps it up. I only bought it less than 30 days ago. Maybe starting tomorrow, I will wait for 30 seconds after the "wait lights" go out (red one and coil). Is it possibly the glow plugs or warmer plates? Maybe I'm not giving whatever it is long enough. For mine, the coil light on the tach only comes on when it's below 50. I'll be the first to admit, I don't know much about the diesels. I'm trying to learn. Thank you for your continued help.

 

MTRam,

My wait to start light (grid heater) was on this AM as it was down in the upper 40's last night here in North IA. BTW, I've had my grid hearter come on when the over head temp showed 61 and it was parked in the garage over night. The CTD does not use glow plugs, it uses a grid heater system to heat the air up and I wonder if yours is not working like it should or a problem with the ECM.

My self when I see the grid heater light come on, I wait until the only light on the dash that is left on is the one that looks like an engine, I then hit the starter and by the time it turns over 3-4 times it's running.

Anyway just remember to not crank it over for longer then 5-6 seconds at any one time and then wait 20 seconds before trying it again, as there is alot of power going to the starter and I would hate to see it burn up.

 

I am now confused as to what actually is the "wait to start" light. I have never seen a coil light come on only the red flashing light.

 

Abby4000,

Look in your owners manual it shows a outline/photo of the dash, where it is located on the dash, and what it looks like.

 

the coil "wait to start" light is in the same area as the e-brake light. when temps drop to below 50F you will see it. the 06's do not automaticaly come on, my 04.5 comes on all the time, but if the temp is above 50F it goes right out.

when you see it you'll know it. then when you have your engine running you will see the lights dim, then come back up, and you'll hear a popping or clicking from the passengers side. that popping is the relays clicking on and off, and the heater grid pulls ALOT of current, this is the main reason why these trucks have two batteries. the heater grid is located on the intake where the tubeing goes into the manifold. the inside looks kinda like the heating element inside a toaster but a bit over an inch wide..