sounds like you need more airflow... what's your intake & exhaust setup like? I've never come close to 1300 deg while hammering my truck. most ive seen has been 11~1200.

 

AEM Brute Force intake. Filter and oversized pipe. I think I am overfueled.....lol. It only happens when I intentionally do it.

 

are you running a single turbo still or duals? exhaust stacks? one thing that helped a little on the egt side of things was the ATS manifold. they also claimed 51ft lbs tq at 1750ish rpms... I believe it all the way.

any pics of your motor? & truck?

 

steve, he's got an older 12V, you can do one adjustment(smoke screw) and have the egt's hot enough to melt the exhaust manifold of your not carefull.

 

I will take some pics. As I said before, I am NOT a wash and wax guy. You can't tell that I have anything under the hood. I can give ya quick list of what's in it.

Bosch 370 Diamond B marine injectors.

PDR HX40 turbo with 18cm housing.

#10 fuel plate (PDR)

ATS 5 start tc

ATS assembly 4 tranny (kept my case)

I have the ATS commander, and three piece exhaust manifold to go on. Have not had enough time.

My cylinder head is studded and o-ringed.

T-case is rebuilt with torrington bearings

Balanced drive shafts

Dana 80 rear with Detroit locker (70 locker tapped and drilled). 4.10's

Dana 60 up front, and I have an Eaton, Electro locker to be installed. Before snow falls though.

PDR intercooler boots.

2 10" Hayden electric fans pushing onto evaporator. Engine stays cool on it's own. The fans are strickly for assisting the A/C on hot days where the truck sits and idles. They work VERY well. Cab controlled.

210 amp alt. All battery cables have been upgraded to 1/0 wire. Cab has two dedicated, 1/0 grounds from cab to frame. Two 1/0 grounds from engine block to frame, and 2 EXTRA 1/0 grounds from battery side post, to frame. LOL...I had wire left over, and paid a fortune for T&B crimpers.

I make the BEST battery cables around. You buy the wire, ends, and shrink, tell me the lengths, pay for flat rate shipping, and I'll crimp cables for free.........LOL.



Every thing in the truck works great. Air, heat, power seat, all lights, etc. I pride myself on my wiring.

I have a nice stereo setup with

Alpine 9835 hu
Sirius Sportster Replay (hard wired to the hu)
4 (four) Infinity Kappa Perfect 6x9 3 ways (693.7I)
Infinity 7540A 4 channel amp
MTX 8500D stereo sub amp
A single 10" Audiobahn ALUMQ10 sub.
Each amp has it's own cap. 1 farad, and 1.5 for the sub
All hand crimped 4 gauge wire from the batteries to the caps and amps. All seperate 4 gauge grounds, with seperate grounding posts. Because I had 4- 4 gauge grounds, I installed 2 ground posts up thru the cab. Each post has 2 - 4 gauge grounds tied to it. And on the underside, there is the 1/0 ground from the grounding posts, to the frame.

Never rely on your vehicles sheet metal for high amperage grounds. Make seperate wires.

My 6x9's are over powered and get 156 watts TRUE rms each. Their max rating is 111 watts true rms each. Your ears will bleed if I decide.LOL
She'll thump bass all day long too.
Remember, power doesn't kill a speaker, distortion does. I have very "clean" power for the amps, and my signals are noise free as well.
Each amp has cooling fans that come on automatically when the hu is powered on. All relayed and filtered for noise.

R.F. Limited Omegaforce S-45 10/11 meter band radio. And she has plenty of swing.LOL. Shhhhhhh don't tell the F.C.C.


4 Autometer Cobalt gauges in a single pod on the dash. All with seperate dimmers for night time. Boost, EGT's, Tranny temp, and voltage.

I run 65/100 watt low/high. 2- 100 watt utility lamps up front as fogs. And I have 2 in the rear on the hitch that come on with button, or reverse lights. All fused and relayed.


All the axles have been rebuilt in Jan of 05'. Tranny and TC are 3 months old.

Top Gunz 3 inch suspension lift. Dual front shocks. (too stiff).

Steering stabilizer bar, and trac bar conversion. I use an 04 trac bar. (Has no more weak ball stud)


No vacuum booster, no antilock valves, no metering vales, NOTHING. I use a Yearwood heavy duty hydroboost, and GMC 1 1/8" (# 117) master cylinder with all 3/16 lines. ALL NEW. Live line to the front, and the rears have an adjustable proportioning valve, with a manual line loc. My prop valve and line lock are piped INTO the cab..........lol. I can adjust brake bias without getting out of the truck. It's work VERY well. I can lock all fours with moderate effort. The way brakes SHOULD be.lol. Antilock is for girlie girls.

EGR calipers, slotted rotors and carbon/kevlar pads. I brake hard all day. My pads have 19,000 miles and half their thickness left. I have also converted the rears to disc.

I installed an AGR "Superbox II" steering gear, an AGR Superpump ps pump, and I have e Rockram steering assist cylinder. All ps line are Aeroquip hd lines, 3/8" id (Gotta find a good welder).

It's a very MECHANICALLY maintained truck. It just doesn't get washed is all. I need a cab corner, front fender, and a little side panel work.

But tread cautiously my friends. She'll beat your ***** off any day of the week. I run my mouth, and someday I will get beat. Not today though....lol.


I will work on pics. Weather is gettin cold at night. Time to stack some wood.


Drive safe, and take care all.


Aj

 

What is the "smoke screw"? I have never heard that term.

 

theres an 8mm allen head screw on the pumpbetween the AFC and the injector lines, pull that off and you'll see an adjustment whell in there. turn that thing one way or another and it will make your truck either smoke like a freight train or not at all.