Oil drain valve ...
#31
RE: Oil drain valve ...
You did your own oil. Congrats. Maybe next week, I'll buy you the Pull-Up Huggies with Superman on them..............LMAO.....LOL.
I'm just messin with ya dude.
I will say this as my opinion. I think that super duper fancy schmancy drain plug is a waste of time. Don't be one of them fast and furious guys....lol. Next week you'll be telling us the entire engine compartment has been draped with rope light....lol
And I don't agree with putting in something that could break, or vibrate loose. More seals to fail. I hope your changing the oil frequently enough that you bond with the drain plug.......lol.
Ok buddy, just takin the opportunity to break chops.
And don't get that plug. Go to Autozone and buy a nice filter wrench, 5 or 10 drain plug washers, a big box of them blue paper towels, and some Permatex hand cleaner.
Now go to the garage and pressure wash the entire are where the oil spilled. Just be careful on high spray. Don't hit the alt directly, and try not to soak the serp belt. The rest of it, blast the bejesus out of it. Even spray with a degreaser before you wash it.
Next week, you'll be droppin transfer cases..........LOL
ADIOS!
I'm just messin with ya dude.
I will say this as my opinion. I think that super duper fancy schmancy drain plug is a waste of time. Don't be one of them fast and furious guys....lol. Next week you'll be telling us the entire engine compartment has been draped with rope light....lol
And I don't agree with putting in something that could break, or vibrate loose. More seals to fail. I hope your changing the oil frequently enough that you bond with the drain plug.......lol.
Ok buddy, just takin the opportunity to break chops.
And don't get that plug. Go to Autozone and buy a nice filter wrench, 5 or 10 drain plug washers, a big box of them blue paper towels, and some Permatex hand cleaner.
Now go to the garage and pressure wash the entire are where the oil spilled. Just be careful on high spray. Don't hit the alt directly, and try not to soak the serp belt. The rest of it, blast the bejesus out of it. Even spray with a degreaser before you wash it.
Next week, you'll be droppin transfer cases..........LOL
ADIOS!
#32
RE: Oil drain valve ...
LOL .... dude you crack me up !! I'll admit, I am DEFINATELY a n00b when it comes to working on my Ram. Like I said before, I've always been intimidated by it for some reason. I never had this problem before in my life. I've had several cars and trucks before and I wouldn't hesitate to tackle whatever job they required including pulling the engine if needed. I also have a couple of bikes that I'm not in the least bit nervous to work on. It was just the diesel engine thing that I was nervous about. I never had one before and nobody that I knew of had one either. Whenever I'd pull it into a mechanics shop it didn't help either. They'd say " diesel huh .... well nobody here works on diesel" Scared me to DEATH !! If a mechanic who works on cars every day doesn't want to try, what makes ME think I can pull it off? After my Pep Boys oil change incident I decided to pull up my huggies and give it a shot. To be honest with you, what drove me to start working on it was an " I don't give a eff " attitude. If I blew it up, so what, I'll just buy a new one. LoL .... I'm whacked !!
I'm a little worried about the integrity of the oil pan itself and that's one of the reasons why I'm thinking about this valve. I hear ya, and I REALLY appreciate your input about the thing rattling loose, but I think I'd rather risk that happening to having my threads strip out of my pan. Come on .. it IS a MOPAR .... this isn't my fist MOPAR .... LOL
Prior to my changing my oil myself, I was on a routine of havig it changed every 5000 miles. My friends told me that I could go 7500, but I was always a stickler for the 3000 mile thing. I decided to meet in the middle at 5000 miles ( plus it's easier to remember .... LOL )
As far as cleaning up the oil mess, I actually picked up an EXCELLENT tip here on the DF forums in the detailing section. Someone there reccomended using Simple Green and it worked GREAT !! I covered the batteries, the alt, and all other electrical stuff before squirting it on. I squirted it on, let it sit for a minute or so, and then washed it off ( I have hot water hooked up to my garden hose so that may have helped ) The engine bay looks almost brand new. After my Simple Green thing, I was tld that I could ( and I did ) squirt the entire engine bay with Armor All and that it would be fine since Armor All doesn't harm anything. It turned out really well if I do say so myself. BTW: The Simple Green is bio degradable so the drains and driveway were fine.
hmmm ...... you DO have me tossing the rope light thing around now ...
I'm a little worried about the integrity of the oil pan itself and that's one of the reasons why I'm thinking about this valve. I hear ya, and I REALLY appreciate your input about the thing rattling loose, but I think I'd rather risk that happening to having my threads strip out of my pan. Come on .. it IS a MOPAR .... this isn't my fist MOPAR .... LOL
Prior to my changing my oil myself, I was on a routine of havig it changed every 5000 miles. My friends told me that I could go 7500, but I was always a stickler for the 3000 mile thing. I decided to meet in the middle at 5000 miles ( plus it's easier to remember .... LOL )
As far as cleaning up the oil mess, I actually picked up an EXCELLENT tip here on the DF forums in the detailing section. Someone there reccomended using Simple Green and it worked GREAT !! I covered the batteries, the alt, and all other electrical stuff before squirting it on. I squirted it on, let it sit for a minute or so, and then washed it off ( I have hot water hooked up to my garden hose so that may have helped ) The engine bay looks almost brand new. After my Simple Green thing, I was tld that I could ( and I did ) squirt the entire engine bay with Armor All and that it would be fine since Armor All doesn't harm anything. It turned out really well if I do say so myself. BTW: The Simple Green is bio degradable so the drains and driveway were fine.
hmmm ...... you DO have me tossing the rope light thing around now ...
#34
RE: Oil drain valve ...
I'll be honest with you, I AM thinking about getting 2 of those under the hood lights with the mercury switches inside of them and mounting them to the top ( inside ) of my bed cover. It get's a little dark and spooky back there at night, so having a couple of night lights would really help me out. LOL !!
Seriously though ... whadda ya think? Where should I tap into for the power?
Seriously though ... whadda ya think? Where should I tap into for the power?
#35
RE: Oil drain valve ...
You know me Mayfair. I'd run a nice length of 14, 12, or 10 gauge wire from the front. For lighting you don't need a relay. Just make sure it's fused the battery. Make sure you have a nice, solid ground the same gauge also. Put it all in convoluted tubing, and make good crimps.
14 gauge = 15 amp max.
12 gauge = 20 amp max
10 gauge = 30 amp max.
Have faith my young Jedi........
Good luck.
14 gauge = 15 amp max.
12 gauge = 20 amp max
10 gauge = 30 amp max.
Have faith my young Jedi........
Good luck.
#36
#37
Join Date: May 2006
Location: North Plains, Oregon
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