Help on lift pump fuel pressure guage install
#21
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ORIGINAL: derherr65
Found in installed pic I like.
[IMG]local://upfiles/48120/5C69A0FDD65F45AD9FFCC243BD9A4E44.jpg[/IMG]
What accessory goes in this spot?
Found in installed pic I like.
[IMG]local://upfiles/48120/5C69A0FDD65F45AD9FFCC243BD9A4E44.jpg[/IMG]
What accessory goes in this spot?
I'll hafta take a look at my Ram later. What year Ram is that pic taken from??
#23
#25
#26
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just to let you know the VP44 is self primeing untill the internal distributer, after that if you have excessive air in the system you have to crack the lines at the head to remove the air.
after installing the sending unit just bump the starter and the lift pump will prime the VP44 and everything should be fine.
after installing the sending unit just bump the starter and the lift pump will prime the VP44 and everything should be fine.
#27
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Well, I finally got the gauge installed. I forgot to take a camera though. It took me 4 hours. I'll snap some after pics to illustrate when I get the chance.
Parts list:
electric 30PSI gauge and sender from westach. (geno's garage)
banjo fitting (geno's garage)
2 banjo washer/seals (geno's garage)
2 hose adapters (autoparts)
2 hose clamps (autoparts)
3 feet fuel hose (autoparts)
gauge bracket (autoparts)
Velcro
wire
elecrical connectors
First I found a place to mount the sender. I chose the firewall right next to the clutch slave cylinder. (just left and above the brake master cylinder for automatics) I installed the hose adapter and hose to the sender, then mounted the sender. Next I routed the hose to the original banjo bolt and cut to fit. I installed the second hose adapter onto the new banjo bolt. I then pulled the stock banjo bolt and replaced it. I attempted to do this quickly to avoid fuel loss. I failed. I later found this had no ill effect. I connected the fuel hose to the second hose adapter and the fuel half of the system was complete. I then test started the truck with the 3 bump procedure. Turn the key on, pump runs a second or two, turn the key to start for just long enough to engauge the starter then let key fall back to on, fuel pump runs for 15-20 seconds. Repeat two more times. Mine started immediately after this with no misses or rough running.
The electrical side of the system involved running wires from the sender to the gauge, to ground, from the gauge to power, and from the gauge light to power and ground. I ran my wires through the boot in the firewall around the main wire harness. It is below and behind the brake master cylinder. I pushed a small screwdriver through the boot from the inside, making a new hole, then ran the wires into the cab from the engine. My gauge is mounted on the dash with velcro near the pillar. I ran the gauge wires under the dash through a small gap at the base of the pillar. With all wires under that dash I connected themand looked for power. I got light power from the ash tray light, but found no good power for the gauge. Ideally you want the gauge to be on only when the key is on, and to be fused. I did not find such a wire, and am temporarily using power from the fuse box.(battery power)
Any suggestions on a switched, fused, power source for the gauge?
Parts list:
electric 30PSI gauge and sender from westach. (geno's garage)
banjo fitting (geno's garage)
2 banjo washer/seals (geno's garage)
2 hose adapters (autoparts)
2 hose clamps (autoparts)
3 feet fuel hose (autoparts)
gauge bracket (autoparts)
Velcro
wire
elecrical connectors
First I found a place to mount the sender. I chose the firewall right next to the clutch slave cylinder. (just left and above the brake master cylinder for automatics) I installed the hose adapter and hose to the sender, then mounted the sender. Next I routed the hose to the original banjo bolt and cut to fit. I installed the second hose adapter onto the new banjo bolt. I then pulled the stock banjo bolt and replaced it. I attempted to do this quickly to avoid fuel loss. I failed. I later found this had no ill effect. I connected the fuel hose to the second hose adapter and the fuel half of the system was complete. I then test started the truck with the 3 bump procedure. Turn the key on, pump runs a second or two, turn the key to start for just long enough to engauge the starter then let key fall back to on, fuel pump runs for 15-20 seconds. Repeat two more times. Mine started immediately after this with no misses or rough running.
The electrical side of the system involved running wires from the sender to the gauge, to ground, from the gauge to power, and from the gauge light to power and ground. I ran my wires through the boot in the firewall around the main wire harness. It is below and behind the brake master cylinder. I pushed a small screwdriver through the boot from the inside, making a new hole, then ran the wires into the cab from the engine. My gauge is mounted on the dash with velcro near the pillar. I ran the gauge wires under the dash through a small gap at the base of the pillar. With all wires under that dash I connected themand looked for power. I got light power from the ash tray light, but found no good power for the gauge. Ideally you want the gauge to be on only when the key is on, and to be fused. I did not find such a wire, and am temporarily using power from the fuse box.(battery power)
Any suggestions on a switched, fused, power source for the gauge?