OK, this isn't for me, so I don't have ALL of the specific details, but here it goes.

A guy near my office has a truck similar to mine only it's a 99. I hadn't seen it in a while, so I thought he either sold it or he chamged jobs. Well ... it turns up again yesterday and the guy told me that he had to wait 5 MONTHS to find a replacement part and even then it wasn't the right part. Turns out that when he had his fuel filter replaced, whoever did it cracked something ( he called it the lid ) and a replacement part was nowhere to be found. He said that the guy wound up using one from a 2006 but that his truck STILL isn't running right.

Here's my question ....

OK, let's say that this lid DID get cracked and it IS un-replacable, couldn't you just by-pass the whle stock fuel filter thing with like the FASS system or something similar? Is that possible, or are there other lines or whetever commming off of that canister that you still need to use it?

I find it hard to believe that replacement parts like this are ipossible to find already. It's a 1999, not an 1899. LOL !! Do you think it's possible, or do you think the poor guy is being yanked around?

 

Since I'm working out a semi-"similar" issue right now, I actually have a few answers for ya. Yes, you could install an FASS or this kind of filter:

Glacie Diesel kit

Those don't call out a '99, but trust me, they'll fit just fine. Either of those routes do get rid of your fuel heater (not really needed unless you're in the arctic) and Water-in-fuel sensor, quite likely neither will be missed.

Now, on this "irreplaceable part":
The '98-'00 trucks had a filter housing where the entire bowl was held on with a stud and had to be dropped to change filters (real PITA). In '01 (or so theses changes were sometimes a little goofy) this style was done away with, and the new ones have a lid that srews off and a filter cartridge drops in. When the new style came out the old one was discontinued and supersceded to a kit to put the new style housing on the older trucks, DC and Cummins get about $700 or so for this kit. So, yes if the "lid" (Cummins calls it the filter head) was indeed cracked he could not get a new one. I said my problem is similar, the wires for the fuel heater in this older style go through the head with just a rubber grommet, mine started leaking fuel right there, as a temporary fix I goobed it up with RTV, my permanent fix is a used '02 filter housing I just picked up for $100, this will bolt right on, I just have to get some fuel lines probably a big-line kit from glacier. So, basically you're both right, does that answer ya' Mayfair?

 

Thanks for the detailed description Batman !!

Did you not change your lift pump yet? I guess I'm STILL a little foggy on how you go about by-passing the filter bowl thing. As a matter of fact, I'm a little foggy on the whole fuel delivery process to be honest with you.

LOL !!

I'm used to a gas tank, with a line going to a fuel pump, to a fuel filter, and finally to a carb. NOW the impression I'm getting is that there is a gas tank, a line going to a fuel pump ( lift pump) going to a fuel filter, going to some sort of VP44 thing ( whatever that is ) and then going to a fuel rail that sends the fuel to the injectors. The whole thing has me miffed.

Care to clear it up a bit?

 

Mayfair, you pretty much have it down pat.


This diagram may help Its more inline with a common rail system as in the the newer models but its all pretty much the same.
Your VP44 would be the equivalent of the High pressure pump in the diagram.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:C...ail_Scheme.png

 

So the lift fuel pump ( lift pump ) isn't strong enough to feed the rails alone? It needs to feed the fuel to a secondary pump ( VP44 ) first?

Why?

Why not just use a stronger lift pump and eliminate the need for the VP44 altogether?

 

No, the lift pump isnt strong enough. It just gets the fuel from the tank to the engine. The VP44 pressurizes the fuel (5000-20000 psi) for the injectors.

Think of it this way. If you have city water, their pumping stations(lift pump) deliver water to your house at 60-100 psi. When you want to pressure wash your driveway you hook up the pressure washer (VP44) which boosts it to 3000 psi and you can clean your driveway of all the oil you spilled.

It would be innefficient to pressureize the water to 3000 psi all the way from the well,, You would need to have stronger pumps much higher quality pipes and fittings all the way and it would also make it more expensive..

 

PERFECT analogy !!!

Thanks a lot for laying it out for me. It's crystal clear now.

Thanks !!!

 

Yer welcome... I have to admit, it was pretty good wasnt it...

 

Except that I'm pretty sure most pressure washers last longer than a VP. [8D]

Mayfair, my lift pump went dead and got replaced by the in-tank pump. I know it isn't good for my VP, but I don't have a fuel pressure gauge on it yet (Terrible, I know) partly because I'm scared to, I know what it's gonna read. So, ignorance is bliss for now. My VP has started showing some signs of weakening, I'm just planning to ride that dog 'til it's done then do a complete fuel system upgrade when I put in a new VP.

 

Really ??

What are some of the signs of a "weakening" VP44 ?

I gota know what to keep my eyes on !!