I plan to build up a 2004 2500 CTD. By build up, I mean I want to build the truck so that is can handle the top settings on the TST box without any issues. I obviously plan to beef up the tranny or replace it with an Eaton Fuller transmission, do something with the turbo, etc etc. Basically, I am looking for ideas from all of you knowledgable people here on the forum. What needs to be done to the truck in order to handle the top setting on the TST box? As far as turbo upgrades, should I look into a twin-turbo set-up like something from Piers or something different?

Thanks for all the help. I appreciate it. Once I get all the input I need, I plan to buy the parts and start with the build-up. I will take lots of pictures and post them on here to show my progress.

Thanks again.

 

For starter, the eaton shifts like crap. One of the worst I have every driven (had to drive one this morning[:'(]). I'd rather drive a nonsynchro trans. You'll want to have the head fireringed if your going to run a dual turbo and also run headstuds. The twin B's turbo setup looks like a good one from BD diesel. You'll probably need to run a dual cp3 setup to supply those injectors.

 

twin CP3's is overkill if all your looking at doing is useing the higher settings of the TST. another issue that I have noticed reading through other forums about people hot rodding their HPCR engines is after adding a 30% higher capacity CP3, some 100hp injectors, stacking some other boxes to achieve better low end the TST tends to lack in, they actualy get higher power numbers around 7 or even 6. some people report after 3/3 the hp numbers actualy go down due to too much timeing and duration the TST will give.

now with that said. your best gains are going to be from a big single turbo, drop the stock lift pump in favor of a fass or walbro setup, and a fully billet trans and torque converter. the trans and TC is where you can get the most gains and will be able to realy turn the box up.

 

Let me rephrase what I said in the original post. I would like to build up the CTD to handle some serious performance gains while maintaining the durability and integrity of the truck. What would you guys do to your trucks to enhance performance if you had extra cash burning a hole in your pocket? We now have established, thanks to Drew, that a large single turbo and a transmission are a necessity, but what else? Also, to Drew, what turbo/transmission would you recommend?

Thanks for all the help.

 

twins are cool, but can be hell to tune just right in order to get the to light properly. yes you have less turbo lag with twins, however you are sacraficeing potential energy after the smaller one in order to get the larger one to spool up to keep the smaller one in its air map.

there are alot of turbos out there, you just need to see what kind of HP you are after. From what I am gathering you want to be around 500-550 to the rear wheels but still be driveable. the TST R49 box with the adjustable rail pressure is probably going to be the only box that will get you what you need, however there is a down side, this box doesnt realy kick in untill after 16-1700rpm, if you plan on running in the higher RPM ranges then you realy dont have a problem, but down low you might suffer a bit since it doesnt fuel down low just to keep EGT's in check. The stock Holset turbo can only handle about 100hp over stock before bad things begin to happen. Industrial Injection makes some good turbo's for what you are looking to do. I would suggest either a PS62 PS64/14 to keep rotational mass down so you can keep egt's on the bottom end down, and also to prevent surgeing. you'll see the ones I'm refering to near the bottom of the page.

with the tranny, I am taking it you have a manual since you mentioned replaceing it with an Eaton Fuller. the NV5600 that comes stock in the 04's is more than capable of handeling over 1000hp by changeing out the aluminum bell houseing with a steel one, installing a billet input shaft, and a good clutch from South Bend.

fuel, the stock injectors have actualy been repoted to fuel 600hp, but with that said, the stock injectors tend to have a few issues if a pressure box is used. if going straight timeing/duration there are very few issues, but if adding pressure to the mix then upgradeing them is a VERY wise move. KAX, Industrial Injection, BD(I think) all make some good injectors. The Stock CP3 is a good unit, as long as you can keep fuel to it which has been an issue since the VP44 days. replaceing the stock lift pump with a FASS or Walbro kit will help out, also the stock CP3 has enough flow for well over 500hp, you just might have to change out the FCA in order to keep the pressure up a bit longer after you get out of the throttle.

the stock head gasket can handle about 50 psi before things start to blow, in order to make 500hp some guys only need around 40-45 psi to get there, some less. some have pushed to 65psi on the stock head gasket. with that said, if it is your daily driver and you push 30-35 under normal driveing and 40 when your showing off the stock head gasket will hold just fine. however you are getting to the point where you will need to change it out for a better one and also stud the head in order to keep it on the block.

hope this helps some

 

Drew-

First off, thanks for all the help. Second, my main concern is keeping the truck drivable. I want to achieve as much HP gain as possible while keeping the truck durable and daily-driable. From what I read in your last post, it seems that around 500-550 to the rear wheels is the limit?

Also, as far as transmission, I mentioned eaton fuller for a manual; however, what would you recommend for an automatic? I am unsure of what I plan to run, but I figure I might as well keep my options open.

Again, thanks for all the help. Once I start the build, I am sure I will have many more for you.



Noah

 

500-550 is not the limit, the limit is to how much you have in your wallet[8D] I am just saying the TST alone will give you around 500 hp alone. . .I'm rounding up a little here as well, some guys get around 490at the best setting and each truck is different. if you add injectors, turbo, another box for more fueling and a programmer then well over 500 is possable.

now since you said you are open to more options an auto matic is a good way to go to realy get the power down. the 6 spd in 2-3-4 shifts is slow, but once you get into 4th speed realy picks up quick. however with an auto, you do not loose boost pressures and there is no loss in time between shifts. an ATS, or DTT, or Suncoast fully built trans will cost a pretty penny, but will handle the power someing off the crank of the engine.

my truck is 200 miles away from 36K and my 6spd is just now starting to realy shift good when I have to hammer it. missing 4-5 can still happen if I try to hard, but I like being in controll of what the engine is doing and an auto doesnt give that all the time.

the stock 48RE does pretty good, but puch much past 75hp constantly over stock, the TC and the clutch packs will give up the ghost. a new vlave body will go along way to helping this out, but that will only give you a bit more over that 75hp threshold

 

Lets say the sky is the limit....what would you do to your truck as far as performance? I just sold a house and made much more money off of it than I intended, and instead of saving the money, I want to build up the truck. When I initially said I wanted to use the TST box, that is only because I have been reading on this forum and that seems to be the box to go with. You mention adding two boxes? Could you elaborate on this? or possibly point me in the direction of where i can read up on this. I plan to build up the truck as much as possible but keep it my daily driver. I want to be able to have the power at hand when I need/want it but still keep the daily driving characteristics (or lack there of). If money wasnt an issue, what would you do to your truck to provide as much power as possible? Thanks again for the help.

 

if I had the money this is what I would do.

Engine: TST R49, MP8, smarty downloader tripple stack, KAX 100 hp injectors, SPS 64/14 or the aurora 5000, walbro lift pump with the big line kit, capped relief valve, fire-ring the block, marine pistons, and probably a higher volume CP3 if I noticed the rail running dry.

auto trans: ATS or suncoast fully built tranny w/ billet input and output shafts, tripple clutch torque converter.

manual trans: SBC O-FE dual disk clutch.

now, with all those engine mods the best power setting would probably be TST 2/1, MP8 on 2 and smarty on SW2 or SW4. the injectors would not need much more duration, and the CP3 would not need to put out much more pressure.