Fried by Jumping??
We have a 3500 besides my personal 2500,
The dualie is a '04 3500 auto 2wd.
One of the guys jumped a fork lift and the dualie died.
We had her towed to the dealership, and were told "the whole electrical system and possibly the fuel? pump has been fried."
Is this possible, I can't believe this as I have "jumped" many auto's and pieces of equipment with my previous 1500!
Any thing between $2,500.00 and $3,500.00 to have repaired?
A duramax then started the fork lift, once this done, he pulled our 3500 out of the way so he could continue to work! - talk about embarrasing!
The guy who was jumping the fork told the dealer he was jumping a fork lift, due to this dealer says No warranty!!!
Is this just BS from the DC to avoid warranty claims?
Any comments - please.
TKS
The dualie is a '04 3500 auto 2wd.
One of the guys jumped a fork lift and the dualie died.
We had her towed to the dealership, and were told "the whole electrical system and possibly the fuel? pump has been fried."
Is this possible, I can't believe this as I have "jumped" many auto's and pieces of equipment with my previous 1500!
Any thing between $2,500.00 and $3,500.00 to have repaired?
A duramax then started the fork lift, once this done, he pulled our 3500 out of the way so he could continue to work! - talk about embarrasing!
The guy who was jumping the fork told the dealer he was jumping a fork lift, due to this dealer says No warranty!!!
Is this just BS from the DC to avoid warranty claims?
Any comments - please.
TKS
sounds like total BS to me. . .the dealer cannot void the warranty like that. what if you were jumping off a regular car and the same thing happened.
I'll bet you had a bad battery that spiked the electrical system when you hooked it to the F/L
I'll bet you had a bad battery that spiked the electrical system when you hooked it to the F/L
I gotta agree with Drew here. I am willing to bet you had a bad battery and jumping the forklift just did the battery in. Remember the cells in the battery can lean a bit when then get old and when they make contact with each other, bye bye....
I would have taken the battery (s) out and have them load tested at a Pep boys before towing it into the dealer. Since the vehicle is at the dealer, I would make them prove to me that jumping the forklift overloaded the electrical system. Or take the vehicle to another dealer and tell them the truck just died (if its still under warrenty).
I would have taken the battery (s) out and have them load tested at a Pep boys before towing it into the dealer. Since the vehicle is at the dealer, I would make them prove to me that jumping the forklift overloaded the electrical system. Or take the vehicle to another dealer and tell them the truck just died (if its still under warrenty).
If the Ram was running when the load was drawn, then I would expect the trucks electrical system to be G O N E.
And with all due respect, I think it was Steve0 (?) ...lol...
The entire electrical system took a hit, probably from low voltage. The device you were trying to start was 12v? If it was 24v, that would also make an electrical system fail. The failure comes from the voltage dropping down to say, 9-10 volts. At 9 or 10 volts, two truck batteries and a working alternator can supply even more current, than they can at 12.5 volts. (I'll hear what a whack job I am and E=IxR....lol).
My point is that the voltage drop changes everything. And if the truck was off, the damage would have probably been 2 batteries at the most. Ever notice how everything electrical, lamps, blower motors, wipers, etc, turn off or stop dead in their tracks when you crank the starter? That's because everything electrical except the starter, has it's power cut off while the motor is physically cranking. The voltage during cranking drops low enough that circuitry is the first thing to take the hit. They are preventing, what the old timers called "spiking".
With the vehicle running, the entire trucks electrical system was on line and **** suffered.........lol. No disrespect.
Why would you tell the dealer that you did what you did?????????????
That's the part that confuses me the most. Who was driving, Abe Lincoln?................LOL.
Good luck with your ride.
And with all due respect, I think it was Steve0 (?) ...lol...
The entire electrical system took a hit, probably from low voltage. The device you were trying to start was 12v? If it was 24v, that would also make an electrical system fail. The failure comes from the voltage dropping down to say, 9-10 volts. At 9 or 10 volts, two truck batteries and a working alternator can supply even more current, than they can at 12.5 volts. (I'll hear what a whack job I am and E=IxR....lol).
My point is that the voltage drop changes everything. And if the truck was off, the damage would have probably been 2 batteries at the most. Ever notice how everything electrical, lamps, blower motors, wipers, etc, turn off or stop dead in their tracks when you crank the starter? That's because everything electrical except the starter, has it's power cut off while the motor is physically cranking. The voltage during cranking drops low enough that circuitry is the first thing to take the hit. They are preventing, what the old timers called "spiking".
With the vehicle running, the entire trucks electrical system was on line and **** suffered.........lol. No disrespect.
Why would you tell the dealer that you did what you did?????????????
That's the part that confuses me the most. Who was driving, Abe Lincoln?................LOL.
Good luck with your ride.
I agree Diesel, with a long winded post that I set up to get some answers it is easy to get confused.
The poor guy that did all of this is in Louisville, I am in Myrtle Beach, this was his first trip with his "new" to him, company truck.
He has just (3days) "up-graded" from his 1500 to the dualie, yes he should have read the manual etc etc, hind sight is 20/20.
Yes the piece of equipment was a 12v system.
My boss is wanting him to pay for the repairs, I am just trying to help him out, he is a new family man with a new baby to take care of - money is tight for him.
I do not know if the vehicle was running at the time - more than likely.
Is this a Dodge issue, or a diesel issue - my 1500 gasser never had this problem and she jumped her fair share.
Thanks.
The poor guy that did all of this is in Louisville, I am in Myrtle Beach, this was his first trip with his "new" to him, company truck.
He has just (3days) "up-graded" from his 1500 to the dualie, yes he should have read the manual etc etc, hind sight is 20/20.
Yes the piece of equipment was a 12v system.
My boss is wanting him to pay for the repairs, I am just trying to help him out, he is a new family man with a new baby to take care of - money is tight for him.
I do not know if the vehicle was running at the time - more than likely.
Is this a Dodge issue, or a diesel issue - my 1500 gasser never had this problem and she jumped her fair share.
Thanks.
unless the forklift was putting out over 14 volts, (and it was dead to begin with) I don't see it being possible. If I were you I would put in a call or two to Diamler Chrysler. And maybe a local attorney.
ORIGINAL: DieselDemon
If the Ram was running when the load was drawn, then I would expect the trucks electrical system to be G O N E.
voltage drop changes everything. And if the truck was off, the damage would have probably been 2 batteries at the most. Ever notice how everything electrical, lamps, blower motors, wipers, etc, turn off or stop dead in their tracks when you crank the starter? That's because everything electrical except the starter, has it's power cut off while the motor is physically cranking. The voltage during cranking drops low enough that circuitry is the first thing to take the hit. They are preventing, what the old timers called "spiking".
If the Ram was running when the load was drawn, then I would expect the trucks electrical system to be G O N E.
voltage drop changes everything. And if the truck was off, the damage would have probably been 2 batteries at the most. Ever notice how everything electrical, lamps, blower motors, wipers, etc, turn off or stop dead in their tracks when you crank the starter? That's because everything electrical except the starter, has it's power cut off while the motor is physically cranking. The voltage during cranking drops low enough that circuitry is the first thing to take the hit. They are preventing, what the old timers called "spiking".
Whoa I didn't know that !!
So basicaly what you're saying is that if you are going to jump start something that your truck has to be turned OFF prior to doing so .... right?
I don't think I've EVER done that. I've always left my car running. I remember back in the day my neighbor actually reving up his cr while jumping to help things along. Again, not a good idea I guess huh?
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Hi, New to this site.
Very interested in what you guys are saying as we have a 2004, 3500 Ram with the cummins motor and its a non-runner.
Truck was brought to us to have a look at as a non-runner that has been stood for 12 months, but broke down just before then and has not run since. We are now doing lots of research before any strip down.
Another major issue is that the Truck is here in the United Kingdom and we do not have any dealers that we can take it to.
Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction with this one.
We have a 2004 Dodge Ram 3500 with the 24v Cummins engine fitted and it has allsorts of gremlins with the electronics. The truck has been stood for 12 months (elsewhere) or so and was believed to be running (although not very well) beforehand. The batteries had gone flat in this time.
We have charged the batteries off the vehicle and refitted them. (both seem to be holding charge fine)
Things that DO NOT work:-
1. keyless entry
2. Fuel gauge and volt meter
3. Diagnostic (on-off 3 times does nothing) Plugging in a scanner does nothing either(says no communication)
4. Several warning lights come on with ignition, go out and come back on one at a time with a chime for each one.
5 Fuel pump is not constant, it pulses. (have tried testing the feed and the feed is pulsing) The injectors can be heard pulsing also with ignition on but not turning over. (clicking noise )
The engine will spin over but will not start. (Not tested for fuel at fuel rail yet)
The vehicle Vin has been checked at a Dodge dealer in the US and it has been confirmed that it does NOT have the "Sentry" key system fitted.
Not checked to see if the overhead is working or not yet.
All the fuses and many of the connections and grounds have been checked.
[/align]Any ideas anyone?
Any suggestions would be gratefully received. ( before I start stripping it down)[/align]Would be interested exactly what dealer says in damaged/fryed and how it is possible that this happens on a modern day vehicle.[/align]Jump starting another vehicle with a running vehicle with good batteries doesn't normally fry the electrics.[/align]Maybe dealer is covering its AS* by wanting to replace everything because they are not good enough to trace the exact fault first???[/align]
Thanks for listening, let me know your thoughts and the outcome of this Truck at the dealers.
Cheers, John
[/align]
Very interested in what you guys are saying as we have a 2004, 3500 Ram with the cummins motor and its a non-runner.
Truck was brought to us to have a look at as a non-runner that has been stood for 12 months, but broke down just before then and has not run since. We are now doing lots of research before any strip down.
Another major issue is that the Truck is here in the United Kingdom and we do not have any dealers that we can take it to.
Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction with this one.
We have a 2004 Dodge Ram 3500 with the 24v Cummins engine fitted and it has allsorts of gremlins with the electronics. The truck has been stood for 12 months (elsewhere) or so and was believed to be running (although not very well) beforehand. The batteries had gone flat in this time.
We have charged the batteries off the vehicle and refitted them. (both seem to be holding charge fine)
Things that DO NOT work:-
1. keyless entry
2. Fuel gauge and volt meter
3. Diagnostic (on-off 3 times does nothing) Plugging in a scanner does nothing either(says no communication)
4. Several warning lights come on with ignition, go out and come back on one at a time with a chime for each one.
5 Fuel pump is not constant, it pulses. (have tried testing the feed and the feed is pulsing) The injectors can be heard pulsing also with ignition on but not turning over. (clicking noise )
The engine will spin over but will not start. (Not tested for fuel at fuel rail yet)
The vehicle Vin has been checked at a Dodge dealer in the US and it has been confirmed that it does NOT have the "Sentry" key system fitted.
Not checked to see if the overhead is working or not yet.
All the fuses and many of the connections and grounds have been checked.
[/align]Any ideas anyone?
Any suggestions would be gratefully received. ( before I start stripping it down)[/align]Would be interested exactly what dealer says in damaged/fryed and how it is possible that this happens on a modern day vehicle.[/align]Jump starting another vehicle with a running vehicle with good batteries doesn't normally fry the electrics.[/align]Maybe dealer is covering its AS* by wanting to replace everything because they are not good enough to trace the exact fault first???[/align]
Thanks for listening, let me know your thoughts and the outcome of this Truck at the dealers.
Cheers, John
[/align]
DUDE!!!
Thisthread is almost 2 years old!!!!
Well, year and a half anyways....
Anyways, with all the symptoms you are describing, it sounds like the ECM (computer) is fried to me.
Thisthread is almost 2 years old!!!!
Well, year and a half anyways....
Anyways, with all the symptoms you are describing, it sounds like the ECM (computer) is fried to me.
I agree. . .if a scan tool cannot conntect to the ECM, and the key trick doesnt work the ECM is toast.
I'd be wondering if you could get a new computer to put in if that would get her running.
I'd be wondering if you could get a new computer to put in if that would get her running.



