Another method would be to attach the blower side of a stong shopvac or a leaf blower to the tail pipe and pressurise the exhaust that way the vacume hose is not in you way when your are trying to drill and tap a strait hole.

 

Went strait from 1/8 up to 21/64. Ihad tried stepping the bits up when I did the test cuts, but I noticed that it was wobbling the hole and was jerky and caught a couple of times.

Like I was saying, drill at high speed and low pressure and the shavings stay tiny.

 

Then you have to worry about it blowing the shavings back into an open exhaust valve. I think I'd skip that method.

 

Both the intake and exhaust would have to be wide open on the same cylinder to have enough air flow that way for that to happen. ( if they are you have a bigger problem)
Even with the exhuast valve open you would be just deadheading pressure ito the cylinder with no measurable air flow after the first 1/2 second.
You would have a positive pressure on the inside so as soon as the bit starts to break through your are going to have air flow back out of the hole you are drilling and any chips will be blown back out of the hole into your face (wear safety glasses)

If you are still not covinced hook the blower up and take the oil filler cap off and check for air flow and then check for air flow out the intake.
Trust me it works I have done it before when drilling holes in intake manifolds. The only diiferance is in the case of drilling the intake manifold is you put the blower on the aircleaner snout insted of the tail pipe.

 

If you want a tap that puts no swarf down into the hole whatsoever, try a 'spiral flute' tap. These are made specially for high speed tapping blind holes on CNC machining centres. Where a normal tap would push swarf into the hole and break, these wind it all up into sprials and pull it back out of the hole. You won't find these in your local auto store though, but just have a chat with any machinist freinds you may have.

 

Can you put two probes in? I already have a pyro so I never bothered putting in the probe for the edge. I was thinking put the one for the edge after the turbo and use that for the turbo timer. Any thoughts?

 

You sure can. If you already have an analog pyro gauge that you use, then a post-turbo pyrometer would work perfect for a cool down timer.

 

Sweet, now the question is where to put it. I've got an exhaust brake so I don't know if that is going to get in the way of things. Do you think it would be fine after the exhaust brake as well?

 

Check to see if there is already a bung for one. I know the Mopar Jacobs Brake has one already there and the BD brake has one.

I'm guessing here, as I don't have a brake on mine, that you want it between the turbo and the brake to see what kind of temps that brake is creating in there. That's the heat your turbo would be feeling.

 

I haven't had a chance to look real close, but I don't remember seeing one.