Hello, I'm a new member here but not new at reading from you guys.
Problem I'm having is, I was driving down the highway and it just shut down. It will not start back up. So far I've checked for spark at the coil,cap,and the plugs. Checked the timming with a light cranking it over and seems to be in time. New parts I've try are coil,cap,rotor wires,pick-up coil in the dis., and a crank sensor.Fuel pump runs but have not check the pressure yet. I've try starer fluid. What should the fuel pressure be at the service valve? What do you guys think I should try next?
Thanks for your help, Marc

 

You've mentioned things you've tried but didn't tell us the results. For example, you said you checked for spark but never said if you had any?You tried starter fluid, did that do anything?

Have you checked for trouble codes? Have you pulled and examined the plugs? Did you pull a plug and see if there was actual spark on the plug itself? Did you visually inspect for vacuum hoses that might have fallen off or cracked? Is your air filter old and dirty?

 

Thank you for your FAST reply!!!! Sorry about that. Yes I do have spark at the plugs and they do look wet as if it's getting fuel.Will you get codes if there is no service light on? Will a vacuum leak cause the engnine to shut off while driving and not restart at all? Air filter is good. The motor will not fire on starter fluid ethier. What is the fuel pressure suppost to be at the service check valve? Could a weak pump be my problem? I'm going to check the pressure today but I'm not sure what it should be. If it was a fuel problem I would think it would fire on starter fliud wouldn't it? About two months ago it started to become hard to start after it sat for about an hour. But if you shut it off and tried it, it would start right back up. I took it to the dealer at that time to have it checked out and have the fuel injectors cleaned. They said they couldn't duplicate the problem and there was no codes to be found. All the parts that I posted I changed made no change at all.
Thanks again for your help in this matter Marc

 

Found code P0320? What does this mean?

 

Code P0320 means there is no crank signal from the crankshaft position sensor getting to the PCM. Since you did change the crank sensor you either got a bum one (which discount auto parts stores are notorious for having) or you have a break in the wiring to the crank sensor.

It's not a fuel problem, it's an ignition problem. Like you said, if you weren't getting fuel the starting fluid would've at least given you some pops out of the engine.

 

Thank you, I was just trying another crank sensor thinking the same thing that maybe it was bad. Same result. Can you check the signal with a scaner to see if it is in deed not getting it? I've never used one but, my friend has one. Some times after crank it , it will push air and fuel back out of the TB. Like the timming is off. But I check it with the balancer marks and took the cap off and it's right on. I'm guessing this sensor tells it when to fire? I would think if it was bad it wouldn't fire at all like when I try it unpluged.

 

WARNING: Testing the wiring harness with the ECM still connected can cause serious damage to the processor. ALWAYS disconnect the ECM before Testing the wiring harness., unless instructed otherwise.

1. Remove the engine cover.
2. Using the DRB-II scan tool or equivalent, plug into diagnostic connector and erase DTCs.
3. Turn ignition OFF and then ON again.
4. Crank engine until starts or for 10 seconds, whichever first. Monitor Crank Signal on scan tool. If Crank Signal is detected, CKP sensor is OK, if No Crank Signal is detected, proceed with diagnostics.
5. Inspect wiring and connectors and repair as necessary and retest. If the wiring and connectors are OK, proceed to the next step.
6. With the ignition OFF, unplug the CKP sensor signal. Using a voltmeter, check the supply voltage using supplied schematics.
7. On 1995 and earlier vehicles, it should be 7.0v or more; if not, repair circuit and retest. If voltage is OK, proceed to next step.
8. On 1996-98 vehicles, it should be 4.5v or more; if not, repair circuit and retest. If voltage is OK, proceed to the next step.
9. Using the scan tool, erase DTCs in the ECM, then turn the ignition OFF and install a jumper wire on the CKP signal circuit. Turn the ignition ON.
10. While observing the display on scan tool, tap the other end of the jumper wire to the sensor ground. If the scan tool shows No Cam Sync, replace the CKP sensor. If the scan tool shows a Cam Sync, proceed to next step.
11. With the ignition OFF, using an ohmmeter probe the ground signal on the CKP sensor connector, measure the resistance between the connector and ground. If it is less than 5.0 ohms, proceed to the next step; if it is more than 5.0v, repair the circuit and retest.
12. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
13. Disconnect the ECM wiring harness. Inspect for any damaged pins or connector terminals and repair and retest if necessary.
14. Using an ohmmeter, test the CKP signal circuit between CKP connector and ECM connector for resistance. If it is less than 5.0 ohms, proceed to next step, if it is more than 5.0 ohms, repair the circuit and retest.
15. Plug in the CKP sensor connector.
16. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the CKP signal circuit and CKP ground at the ECM connector. If resistance is less than 5ohms, repair the short in the CKP signal wire. If the resistance is more than 5 ohms, replace the CKP sensor.





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Alloro, I check the ciruits for the ckp and the cam sync at the pcm. No wires broke and sensor are good. Coil checks good. Fuel system pressure is at 48 psi. Got spark at the plugs and fuel. I checked the ckp and the cam pick up coil with the scanner and it see them and the counts are right. What else can it be other than the PCM? $$$$

 

Sounds like you are down to that last option...the PCM. Get the number off of yours and go check out this link. Their prices are quite low.

http://stores.ebay.com/Auto-Computer...QQftidZ2QQtZkm

 

Well........ It's running!!!!! When I was checking the spark at the plug it was kind of orange. So in a last hoora I wired up an spareMSD coil for my race car and what do ya know, Varumm!! The thing isI just replaced that thing about 8000 miles ago when I tuned it up! I've never seen one die like it did while driving down the road and still work! Thanks for all your help sir!!!! Marc