No don't just crack the bleeders, you should always have pressure on the pedal to prevent air from entering the system at the bleeders. And don't pump the pedal during the bleeding procedure. Doing so causes larger air bubbles to break down into much smaller air bubbles. Large bubbles come out much easier. Most of the time when you have small air bubbles, you'll have to wait 24 hours for them to merge togetherbefore you can bleed the system correctly.

Start bleeding at the valves you just installed, then do the wheels. You can bleed the valves by applying pedal pressure, then cracking the fittings loose that goes to the front (2 fittings)and rear (1 fitting)wheels. Do these one at a time, letting up and reapplying the pedal in-between.

One thing I forgot in my earlier post. Of the two valves you just replaced, the one that is more forward has a rubber button on top. You'll have to press this in to recenter the internals of the valve during the bleeding processand eventually to get the dash brake warninglight to go off.

 

Alloro, Thanks. So after I crack the fitting (with the petal down) is this when I push the button? Or do I let up on the petal and then push the button. I do appreciate all of this.

 

Press the button before you start doing any bleeding or opening any fittings, then again when you're done with the rears and are ready to do the fronts. Press it one more time after you're all done bleeding just to be sure, but in any case, only press it when all fittings are closed and tight.

 

I gave it a great try last night. I bled and bled and bled. Started at the valves and worked each wheel. The petal feels much better, but the lights (abs and brake) are still on. On that button. I removed the rubber cap, and underneath it is a small pin looking thing. It resembles an air valve on an inner tube. I was periodically pushing it in during this process. Do you think I just still have air? Tonight I am planning on replacing the two front bleeder valves on the calipers, and replacing the brake line that goes from the tee to the right front caliper. That is the last line that hasn't been replaced. Any other ideas? thanks.

 

Were you just pushing on it, or was it actually moving? It doesn't always move easily and sometimes you have to use something hard like a 6"x3/8" socket extension to push it in.

The light is triggered when that valve moves, That valve moves only when there is unequal pressure between the front and rear brake lines. At any point did you test the master cylinder to make sure it's okay? The way to test it, is to remove the lines and insert threaded plugs the holes in the MC. When you press the pedal it should move no more than a 1/2" or so. Also, by keeping moderate foot pressure on it, the pedal should not sink to the floor. If it does, the internal seals are leaking.

 

The little pin was actually moving a bit when I pushed it. That small pin you can see moving up and down as the brake petal is pushed and released. I was pushing the head of the pin with a small flat blade screwdriver. I will have to check the master cylinder. If I recall correctly the thing that I was pushing on looks like a valve in a tire innertube. I am pushing the head of the small pin inside. Is that correct? The whole thing doesn't move does it? I had to remove the rubber cap to get at it. If you just push on the rubber cap nothing moves. Should this remove the abs light as well? thanks again.

 

Yes.

 

I replaced the last brake line (from the tee to the right front) and re-bled. Good petal pressure. Lights are still on . I can hear a "poof" of air each time the brakes are pressed coming from the master cylinder area. Is that normal? Should this be where I look next? The button we discussed before (on proportioning valve) is still moving up and down as the brakes are pressed and released.

 

Try disconnecting the single wire pigtail from the proportioning valve and see if the dash lights stay off when you turn the key on. Let's make sure this circuit is okay before we bang our heads against the wall anymore. If the circuit is okay, my next thought is a kinked, blocked, or otherwise restricted brake line that is causing a pressure imbalance.

 

Alloro, thanks for sticking with me on this. I will pull the wire tonight. What do you think on my master cylinder?