Hi, I'm brand new to the forum. I have a 98 B3500 extended cargo van with the 5.9. The ABS/brake light is on. Is there any list of top things that I should check? Thanks.

 

Obviously check the brake fluid level first. That aside, do you know if you have 4-wheel ABS or just rear wheel ABS? If it's the latter then it's likely the ABS sensor on the back axle went bad. If you're unsure if you have 4-wheel ABS, turn the wheels to one side and look around the tire to see if there is a wire running to the front wheels. If there is you have 4-wheel ABS, if not, you have just rear wheel ABS.

 

See I got this van from a friend of mine. A couple of years ago, he and I worked on it and we changed that sensor. It didn't fix it. We took it to the Dodge dealer, and they looked at it. They said it need some valve of some sort. I can just vaguely remember the conversation. He did have it written down that it was a $187.00 part from the dealer. Does any of this make sense? Wondering what to do next. Does the brake and ABS light have to be off for NYS inspection? Thanks.

 

It's probably the proportioning valve. If that's no good it will turn on the regular dash brake light.
Most states will not fail the inspection because of an ABS light, since ABS is not a mandatory option.Usually they will fail it if the regular dash brake light is on. It's best to call and ask them.

 

Found the paperwork. It has rear ABS only. The dodge dealer is calling the part that I need a pressure limit switch (valve). That is the way it is written. It is supposed to be part # 5003313 AB and a cost of $187.00. Does that sound correct? Where is this switchlocated and how hard is it to change? Thanks for your help.

 

Follow the two brake lines from the master cylinder. They run right to the pressure limit switch (proportioning valve). When you get to the valve, it not only has the two lines going to it that you just traced, but it has two more lines and one wire coming out of it. The $187 is expensive, but I did check three auto part sites and none of them carried the valve. You might be stuck getting it from the dealer or a boneyard, unless you find a place that carries an aftermarket one.

 

In a year Chrysler sold over 1,600 of these sensors. The 98 and 99 Durango's are known for this problem and it is the same part number.

https://dodgeforum.com/m_176879/mpag.../tm.htm#303000

Down a little will give the part number and how to correct the error code too.

 

I went to the junk yard and picked up a used proportioning valve (pressure limit switch). The thing is, when tracing the lines from the master cylinder, there are two things that look like proportioning valves. Each one has lines going in and out, one has a smaller switch with a wiring connector, and one has a larger four wire connector. They are underneath the battery. I replaced both parts (with junkyard items), but the lights are still on- both brake and ABS. Brakes feel spongey. Now what should I do?

 

The valves are air bound. Once you do a thorough bleeding of the brake system, the pedal will be stiff again and both lights will go out. If you bleed with the engine running, you will have to turn the ignition off for a minute then on for the lights to reset themselves.

I do suggest that you start the bleeding process at the valves by cracking open each fitting 1/2 a turn (one at a time). Just like you would bleed a wheel cylinder or caliper. This will keep you from trying to push all of that air through the lines to the wheels. The downside to pushing through to the wheels is the risk of an air bubble getting trapped along the way.

Bleeding can be frustrating, so just have patience, have a couple of quarts of brake fluid on hand, and it will work out okay for you. Oh and one thing I find helpful is to jack up the wheel you're bleeding and pull the tire off. This makes accessing the bleeder fitting much easier and less messy.

 

Ok, so I should crack the caliper bleeders without holding the petal down first? I have always used the pump-pump-pump, hold the petal down, crack the bleeder valve meathod. Should I start bleeding at the rear brakes? Do I bleed all wheels? Any other brake bleeding tips? Thanks for your advice.