Hi there,
I have a 1996 Dodge Ram Van, B2500, 6 cylinder, 3.9l and have some problems which I think is with the fuel system.
I would like to hear back from you as to what you think it may be, because it has me stumped.

About 3 years ago is when the problems started, and I've been noticing it more often now.
It began with a reduced idle, so I adjusted the idle a bit higher.

The problems used to start when my fuel guage shows just less than 1/4 of the tank, the engine seems to have these speratic starvation pulses. Now it seems to happen when less than 1/2 tank of gas. So I have to keep my tank level full.

The Check Engine light turns on when it sputters, normally the light turns off after shutting off ignitions.
But sometimes the light stays on, usually after a few missfires.
I bought myself a ODB code reader, and it shows 300,301,3002.
300 - Random / Multiple Cylinder Missfire Detected
301 - Cylinder #1 missfire
302 - Cylinder #2 missfire

The last time I had the "Check Engine" light come on was last summer (June 2007), and the error codes were only 300 and 302. I usually fuel up right away when the stuttering happen, but this month I was on a long drive and wasn't able to fuel up in time.

The "Check Engine" light come on usually shortly after all the shuttering begins to happen.
On several occasions, after fueling the tank up full, the check engine light disappears.

Just this month though, after fueling up, it took a few miles driving from the the gas station for the shuttering to end, and the second day driving after fueling up, did the check engine light disappear.

The shuttering normally occurs if acceleration is too fast on the start. And normally once it occurs at highway speeds (80km/50mph) you have to ease off acceleration. Makes going with the flow of traffic difficult.

I've tried a couple fuel cleaner products, none have helped any.

I bought myself a manual, and looking at the fuel system,the more I look at it, the more confused I get. It appears that there are two fuel pumps? one in the tank, and one right after the fuel filter on the engine block.
Turns out my model has the fuel pump in the tank.

By no means am I mechanically inclined. I have changed the muffle (easy), and the water pump (learning experience) on my Ram Van. The only fuel stuff I have touched was replacing a fuel pump on my Ford (Japanese designed) car (straight forward hatch under rear seat).


Anyhow, your thoughts and questions would be highly appreciated,
Thank you kindly,

Frank


******** UPDATE ******* (4 years later)

Problem Solved: Fuel filter plugged = fuel limited to filter bypass pipe.


The Dodge Ram Van has a fuel filter at the bottom of the fuel pump canister.
The fuel filter has a bypass pipe.
When the filter is plugged, then fuel only goes down the bypass pipe.
Once the tank goes below 1/2 tank of gas, then no more fuel get to the fuel pump.



I replaced the fuel filter ($30), however, I would recommend replacing the fuel pump ($100) aswell, or replace the entire fuel pump canister ($300).
It is a bit of work to drop the tank.

First time learning how to drop the tank took me 6 hours,

Second, third time, I didn't get the float in the canister correctly placed,

Fourth time, I decided to cut the bypass pipe in half,

Fifth and sixth time, I found out there is a specific way to clip the hose to the pump.
(there is a bevel in the clip that holds connection, otherwise it leaks and the next day you have to prime the fuel a couple times before the van starts),

Seventh time, it took about 2 hours to drop the tank,

Eight time,.... well, it'll be to replace the pump. (sometimes you can stomp right about it and it gets it going).



I'm debating writting a tutorial.....
Thank you,

 

The fuel in the tank act like a big heat sink for the fuel pump. When the fuel is low the pump runs hotter and starts to act up. The only solution is to replace the pump.

You have one fuel pump in the tank with fuel injecting or one pump on the engine with a carb. Older models have the pump on the engine block not in the tank. Your manual is covering a range of years so both pumps are mentioned.

 

When was the last time fuel system cleaner was used? Injectors get really clogged using average sulfur grade fuels.

If you do get injector cleaner, get the brands that DO NOT contain alcohol. The cheap brand called SuperTech at Wal*Mart and I believe the STP fuel cleaners are good to use. No alcohol is in them.

Also, Alloro can be right about a bad fuel pump too. There are reports with Dodge Trucks and Vans with this issue. However, your vehicle reports cylinder issues.

One last thing. A very dirty IAC can throw codes like this and cause idle stuttering/surging.
Sometimes, a very dirty IAC can toss O2 codes when the O2 sensors are just fine.

DIY: How to Clean the IAC ...
https://dodgeforum.com/m_525409/tm.htm

Hope our advise helps you some. Alloro has a vast knowledge to draw from.[8D] I'm just a hillbilly engineer in the auto industry with enough brain power to be dangerous.

 

Just to follow up on this old thread, for future reference...

I have basically the exact symptoms with my 1996 B3500 5.2l. It was somewhat random, but I would get sputtering and loss of power (particularly going up hills) at around 1/2 to a 1/4 tank -- it varied. My gas gauge is also not working, but that's an earlier and I suspect un-related issue. All my research pointed to the fuel pump module being the culprit for the sputtering, but I decided to try a fuel system cleaner before I got more involved.

It's only been a couple of weeks, but this seems to have solved the problem. And I've had slightly better MPG since too.

 

There is also a wire harness connector that should be checked. In most vans of this vintage it is located near the transmission mount crossmember. When you locate the connector, press on the snap lock release and take a look at the inside for white or grey corrosion on the contactswhich can cause sporadic fuel pump (and faulty fuel gauge) issues. If corrosion is foundspray contact cleaner on the inside of the connector, allow to dry, and fill with silicone grease before reconnecting.

Fixing this can save you from the difficult job of changing an in-tankfuel pump: parts, time & labor saved ~ $500.

 

Have a 1996 Ram Van 2500 w/ 318CID and the 36 gallon tank. I have the exact same problem.. Was wondering if replacing the fuel pump did the trick?

Seems like a logical answer to this problem, but I'd really like to get some confirmation that replacing the fuel pump solved the issue. It's an expensive fix. I've been quoted as high as $800 for parts and labor.

 

Did you ever hear if this solved this person's problem? I have the EXACT same problem with a 1996 Ram Van 2500 w/ the 318CID and the 36gal tank. I runs fine when above 1/2 - 1/4 tank, but it will start to starve for gas sometime within that range. I fill up again and the problem goes away.

I've also noticed the issue is more likely to occur at freeway speeds.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

 

That is the classic sign of the fuel pump going bad. If you can check or have the fuel pressure checked you will find it lower than it should be. Your fuel pressure should be 49.2 psi +-5 psi. You may find that yours is running in the mid 30's.

 

Not this person in particular, but I have had others report back that changing the pump did solve the problem. Like 'Mobile Auto Repair' said, try checking the fuel pressure if you want some type of confirmation first.

 

Change out the fuel pump. I had the same problem in my '96 3500 twice. Below about 1/2 tank, it would sputter. Changed out the fuel pump and it ran fine afterwards.

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