odometer and engine code 35 fault
#1
odometer and engine code 35 fault
I've been slowly solving a few probelms on my 1990 B250, 318 V8. The speedometer and odometer were not working when I bought it. I replaced the speed sensor, abs sensor and the instrument cluster. The speedo works now, but the odometer still doesn't turn. Also, it came up with a 35 and 46 engine code fault.Before I replaced the cluster, the checkengine light was not on. I unplugged the battery overnight and the 46 fault cleared. I understand that 35 is the cooling relay is open or shorted. The radiator fan runs no problem right on start up. I have not taken it on a trip, but while running around town, it does not overheat at all. My Haynes guide isn't any helpin locating the cooling relay or with the odometer not turning.Anyone got any advice?
THANKS!
THANKS!
#2
#3
#4
RE: odometer and engine code 35 fault
The book says "left fender side shield"...whatever that means. Maybe if you have a wheel well shield within the left fender you have to remove it and the relay might be behind it. It could also mean that the relay is mounted inside the engine compartment on the metal shield that covers the tire and that the fender attaches to. Kind of next to the master cylinder but hidden behind the battery.
#6
RE: odometer and engine code 35 fault
Is your AC working? If so then the relay (if it has one) is working.
I will look up the relay location if my software has it and repost.
Edited and Added, Unable to find the location of the relay.
On my 97 there is a PDC (Power Distribution Center) box on the top of the radiator. It contains Max fuses and relays. Might look under the hood near the battery for yours. May also look under the glove box if your glove box is in the dash.
EDIT # 2 I see that Alloro had already posted by the time I got my post up here. I hope he had the answer you needed for my software did not give me the info as to the location.
I will look up the relay location if my software has it and repost.
Edited and Added, Unable to find the location of the relay.
On my 97 there is a PDC (Power Distribution Center) box on the top of the radiator. It contains Max fuses and relays. Might look under the hood near the battery for yours. May also look under the glove box if your glove box is in the dash.
EDIT # 2 I see that Alloro had already posted by the time I got my post up here. I hope he had the answer you needed for my software did not give me the info as to the location.
#7
RE: odometer and engine code 35 fault
Thanks for the help. My A/C does not work, in answer to your question, and that wasn't really one of my worries although it would be great if replacing the relay fixed my A/C. I have really just been concerned with fixing the check engine fault light and of course, gettting my odometer to work.
THANKS AGAIN! I'll keep you posted as soon as I get a chance to look under the bonnet.
roberson
THANKS AGAIN! I'll keep you posted as soon as I get a chance to look under the bonnet.
roberson
Trending Topics
#8
RE: odometer and engine code 35 fault
Your odometer problem is a stripped plastic gear, easily replaceable.
http://www.carradio.com/speedometer-gears.html
The one you need is the second one listed on the page. That's what fixed the odometer in my '90 B250. You just have to pull the instrument cluster and carefully take apart the odometer (pictures really help to put things back together), replace the tiny little gear and get it all back together. Mine had 2 teeth missing.
I'll try to remember to scan the necessary pages from the manual when I get home.
http://www.carradio.com/speedometer-gears.html
The one you need is the second one listed on the page. That's what fixed the odometer in my '90 B250. You just have to pull the instrument cluster and carefully take apart the odometer (pictures really help to put things back together), replace the tiny little gear and get it all back together. Mine had 2 teeth missing.
I'll try to remember to scan the necessary pages from the manual when I get home.
#10
RE: odometer and engine code 35 fault
Sure! It frustrated the heck out of me...
This is from the hint I was given when mine broke:
"You have to separate the clear plastic housing and face. No need to take the needle off. There are 2 screws that hold on the tiny drive motor. The electric motor is on the bottom side of the green circuit board shown below. The tiny green thing is the bad gear."
My bad gear wasn't green; it was black. But it is tiny...
This is from the hint I was given when mine broke:
"You have to separate the clear plastic housing and face. No need to take the needle off. There are 2 screws that hold on the tiny drive motor. The electric motor is on the bottom side of the green circuit board shown below. The tiny green thing is the bad gear."
My bad gear wasn't green; it was black. But it is tiny...