Thanks for the response and advice. I don't have a hair dryer,but i think my buddy has a heat gun that he would let me use. Will try that tomorrow and i'll keep you posted on my status.

 

So I used a heat gun at 600 degrees for 10 minutes on the ecm and it fired right up. So I guess that means I must replace it. Ugh,thing costs $240. Looks like i'll be taking the bus for a bit,but at least I know what to do now.
Much thanks for the help,really appreciate it. My best guess before posting here was that a ghost was haunting my ignition system.

 

A little bit longer and you would've been using "fired" in a literal sense. Hitting it with 600 degrees for 10 minutes is way beyond the safety margin of electronic components. A 100 degrees for a few minutes is usually enough.

 

Uhh,so simple hair dryers run at 1500 to 2000 watts at a minimum of 200 degrees. Additionally,200 degrees (adjustments were in 100 degree increments and maxed at 1200 degrees) was the minimum setting on that particular model of heat gun i used,and that felt like a cool breeze on my hand(especially outside after it had just rained).A setting of 600 degrees on a heat gun is not like i put the ecm (which also had a plastic cover over it that looked unremovable) in a 600 degree oven.The nozzle disperses quite a bit of the heat as well as the fact that i did not just concentrate it on only one spot. I appreciate the advice you have shared in this,but i didn't just fire up a rose bud torch from an oxygen acetylene set up and put it directly on my ecm.I used a temperature controlled heat gun that i felt the heat on my hand (at a distance because i don't like to be "fired" in a literal sense)before applying it towards the electronic control module.

 

Hey guys,


I have dodge 1994 5.2 and i have the exact same problem. i started it and it stalled out and just died. It cranks but no spark. I have replaced everything i can think of: Ignition coil, Distributor(cam sensor, cap), Crank Shaft sensor, PCM. Here's what i do know...at the coil, im reciving 12v at ignition on for 3 sec. then i get nothing at crank...both cam & crank position sensors are getting power to them and returning voltage from them. I do not know what else to do. Please help.

 

Church-
where are you getting the pin location and voltages? Is this in the Dodge repair manual? I have yet to find any info about diagnosing the PCM and the harness.

 

my 91 d250 did the same exact thing i put a pump in the tank cause it felt like it just ran out of gas, still no start checked coil was good but no spark, so i put a $300 ecm in it and still no start so i hauled it to the local shop i guess it has whats called a halo ignition system it starts on very high voltage initally and then drop to a second system wich is lower voltage the primary pickup in the distibuter was fried cost me another $300 for distributer install but it did fix after throwing a ton of $$$ into it, i would possibly try a good used distributer make sure its for your make and model hope this mite help w.m.

 

does anybody out there have a solid answer on this issue ?I have done this with my van 3 times over the last 6years replaced all the above .I heard for the 1st time that it could be the pcm/ecm is going bad.Why wouldn't an OBD reader pick up on that? Also how wise would it be to get a used one and have it flashed or programed for my van?.It sounds like this is a major defect.I don't want to sink a bunch of cash into a revolving door if u catch my drift...signed dazed and confused in seattle

 

A dealer style scanner would pick up on this.


A HF one wont.


I did notice when my PCM barfed, when I did the keydance, it would not show anything on the odometer.

 

so I guess I will try the hair dryer trick and see if that will start it.if in fact that it does start can I drive it and will it continue to start as long as I don't let it sit for too long?? thanks for the info