Got problems after changing my brakes.
#12
#16
#17
You can do this with a person to help. Use line wrenches to loosen up the two lines, may need to remove or unmount the RWAL unit. After you disconnect the brake lines the remove the two nuts that hold the cylinder to the booster. Now pull the old MC out. Install the new MC to the booster, but do not hook up the lines yet. Pour fresh fluid into the MC. Have a helper gently push the MC while you use your thumbs to firmly cover the ports for the brake lines. By keeping your thumbs firmly over the holes allows your helper to push out the air and draw in fluid when he/she releases the pedal. Have them do this slowly both pressing and letting up on the pedal. About 5 seconds between start to finish when pressing or letting up is good.
Once you have no more air then hook up the brake lines. A trick I have done many times now is to just loosen the line a little bit and have your helper to start to push the pedal as you finish tightening the line. So far out of 7 I have done I have not even needed to bleed the rest of the system.
Once you have no more air then hook up the brake lines. A trick I have done many times now is to just loosen the line a little bit and have your helper to start to push the pedal as you finish tightening the line. So far out of 7 I have done I have not even needed to bleed the rest of the system.
#18
why don't you just do it yourself. seems like you already have the skills and knowledge.
You should also get yourself a mityvac for this job.
you need to bench bleed the master in a level position. a vise is really handy for this. a new master comes with instructions
but before condeming the master. why not fill the master, open all the "bleeder valve/nut or what ever you call it" for a couple hours and let gravity do the work. tighten and try power bleeding again.
You should also get yourself a mityvac for this job.
you need to bench bleed the master in a level position. a vise is really handy for this. a new master comes with instructions
but before condeming the master. why not fill the master, open all the "bleeder valve/nut or what ever you call it" for a couple hours and let gravity do the work. tighten and try power bleeding again.
Last edited by 22dodge; 09-30-2009 at 10:23 PM.
#19
#20